FreshSeaBass Build Thread

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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If you are going to SAS just make sure you put a worthy axle underneath it. No point in doing a SAS and all the work for an axle designed around a 2500lb truck.
 
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If you are going to SAS just make sure you put a worthy axle underneath it. No point in doing a SAS and all the work for an axle designed around a 2500lb truck.

Seriously thinking about a LC FZJ80 set... Realistically it would be super strong, but an '84 was around 4200lbs dry.... 3rd gen 2.7l 2wd 5spd was about 4k from what I've seen out there. A bit of inner turmoil because I have another 4.30 3rd member, the stretched and stripped housing, blah blah blah.... lots of parts. We will see
 

Hank

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Everyone here with half a brain cell knows that there are limitations with IFS.

when it’s only half a brain cell is when your push it way past that limit without upgrading it @Hank

The fuck are you talking about? The truck is holding up just fine. I have addressed all the the weak points and either remedied it with better parts or left the OEM parts as an easy fix as an intentional break point to stop the forces from moving upstream. I have wheeled the fuck out of the truck for 6 months and had one bent tie rod and one rack and pinion failure. Both of which, I knew was bound to happen. Fuck you very much.

Don't tag in me in a condescending post when you don't know a goddamn thing about my truck or about how I "push it way past that limit without upgrading it". Fuck off outta here.
 

Itaro

Seriously, FJB
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The fuck are you talking about? The truck is holding up just fine. I have addressed all the the weak points and either remedied it with better parts or left the OEM parts as an easy fix as an intentional break point to stop the forces from moving upstream. I have wheeled the fuck out of the truck for 6 months and had one bent tie rod and one rack and pinion failure. Both of which, I knew was bound to happen. Fuck you very much.

Don't tag in me in a condescending post when you don't know a goddamn thing about my truck or about how I "push it way past that limit without upgrading it". Fuck off outta here.
:boink:
 
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The fuck are you talking about? The truck is holding up just fine. I have addressed all the the weak points and either remedied it with better parts or left the OEM parts as an easy fix as an intentional break point to stop the forces from moving upstream. I have wheeled the fuck out of the truck for 6 months and had one bent tie rod and one rack and pinion failure. Both of which, I knew was bound to happen. Fuck you very much.

Don't tag in me in a condescending post when you don't know a goddamn thing about my truck or about how I "push it way past that limit without upgrading it". Fuck off outta here.

No fire poking here.... I read through your whole thread and me gusta.... Have you ever felt the desire to convert to SFA? I think if the 3rd gen parts weren't so fragile I'd feel differently. Unfortunately the only real option for the beef is LT or shoehorning an 8" front diff in there, figuring out an axle solution, and going with more IFS parts then be left with a steering problem.... these racks suck!
 

Hank

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No fire poking here.... I read through your whole thread and me gusta.... Have you ever felt the desire to convert to SFA? I think if the 3rd gen parts weren't so fragile I'd feel differently. Unfortunately the only real option for the beef is LT or shoehorning an 8" front diff in there, figuring out an axle solution, and going with more IFS parts then be left with a steering problem.... these racks suck!

that response was just for Itaro for not contributing anything worth while and being a condescending dick.

As for doing a SAS, no never considered it on this truck. The OEM CVs on the 2nd gen Tacoma is much stronger as well as the steering, to a point. for a 3rd gen 4runner, as long as you build your SAS correctly with good up travel, it’s a really good way to go.
 

eimkeith

IFSFFS.
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Seriously thinking about a LC FZJ80 set... Realistically it would be super strong, but an '84 was around 4200lbs dry.... 3rd gen 2.7l 2wd 5spd was about 4k from what I've seen out there. A bit of inner turmoil because I have another 4.30 3rd member, the stretched and stripped housing, blah blah blah.... lots of parts. We will see

I'm doing FZJ80 rear (full float, 9.5", discs) and hybrid FJ62/80 front (9.5 from the 62, knuckles and birfields from the 80 with the Hellfire Knuckle setup for hi-steer) in an aftermarket housing (for the driver's side drop tcase) in my Taco. I also like the all-Toyota challenge, and don't mind cutting up the Tacoma for uptravel with the wider axles (whereas I really like the looks of the 4Runner and hate to hack it up too much). I also want to do it once and be done with it. :)

I didn't use the 80 rear on the 4Runner because I couldn't narrow it enough to tuck the tires like I want to. But then again, everyone seems to destroy the 7.5" front diff on the 3rd gens, and the rear 8 seems to hold up ok from what I'm seeing? I'm not sure I'd be overly concerned with using a minitruck front axle under it, strength-wise, unless you're planning to go big with the tires...?
 
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that response was just for Itaro for not contributing anything worth while and being a condescending dick.

As for doing a SAS, no never considered it on this truck. The OEM CVs on the 2nd gen Tacoma is much stronger as well as the steering, to a point. for a 3rd gen 4runner, as long as you build your SAS correctly with good up travel, it’s a really good way to go.

Good stuff! I just think that for an all around performer, it's probably smarter. I really like how WFO concepts does their SAS conversions. I love how IFS handles everything, but I find myself worrying a lot about what will happen as soon as I get ready to drive home from the trails because at the end of the day, I drive this thing there and I have to drive it home no matter what...

WFO stuff -> They typically end up doing 10" coilovers for a 5.5" front lift on their setups.... I am going to run the 8" coilovers I have as a preliminary run because I've spent lots of $$ on valving and tuning them... I am shooting to keep this thing LOW and DD-able.
17.jpg 27.jpg 14.jpg
They have a sweet X-member that ties in lower link mounts to it.... with the dual-case, I should be able to sit this thing on the rear case and have some fairly long links. 3rd link will probably be configured similarly...

WFO-TOY-9504-CM_cropped.jpg 3-Link-Profile-2.jpg
3-Link-Profile-1.jpg
 
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I'm doing FZJ80 rear (full float, 9.5", discs) and hybrid FJ62/80 front (9.5 from the 62, knuckles and birfields from the 80 with the Hellfire Knuckle setup for hi-steer) in an aftermarket housing (for the driver's side drop tcase) in my Taco. I also like the all-Toyota challenge, and don't mind cutting up the Tacoma for uptravel with the wider axles (whereas I really like the looks of the 4Runner and hate to hack it up too much). I also want to do it once and be done with it. :)

I didn't use the 80 rear on the 4Runner because I couldn't narrow it enough to tuck the tires like I want to. But then again, everyone seems to destroy the 7.5" front diff on the 3rd gens, and the rear 8 seems to hold up ok from what I'm seeing? I'm not sure I'd be overly concerned with using a minitruck front axle under it, strength-wise, unless you're planning to go big with the tires...?

You should look into the WFO concepts design for the X-member as it might inspire you to consider that for your own x-member and the option of running link mounts off of it! I have my two gear drive cases sitting and it will actually come out quite a bit less expensive for me to use the two gear cases and have a Passenger drop than the alternative (chain/gear) stacked cases with the Driver drop... I posted it above!

I really want to keep the 8" rear as I will never go bigger than 35's for the purposes of this truck. I have all the data I need for the Toyota front mini truck axle and keeping it stretched +3" on the drive side and +2" each side will give me an overall width of 61".....

(Toyota axle bible claims 55.5" WMS to WMS, but my findings are different... I have 56".... after chatting with some of the builders on Pirate, I confirmed with them that the Toy-bible is not accurate. I can live with a +.250" front axle width. Fortunately I was able to also learn that Longfield makes up to +3" longer inners for both Pass/Drive sides of the Toy-mini front.)

I doubt the 8" diff will be a problem... There's something that really pleases me when I think about having two 8" OEM Toy axles under the truck :p



@eimkeith Are you planning to run a 3-link front or those BEEFY radius arms?
 

eimkeith

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You should look into the WFO concepts design for the X-member as it might inspire you to consider that for your own x-member and the option of running link mounts off of it! I have my two gear drive cases sitting and it will actually come out quite a bit less expensive for me to use the two gear cases and have a Passenger drop than the alternative (chain/gear) stacked cases with the Driver drop... I posted it above!

I really want to keep the 8" rear as I will never go bigger than 35's for the purposes of this truck. I have all the data I need for the Toyota front mini truck axle and keeping it stretched +3" on the drive side and +2" each side will give me an overall width of 61".....

(Toyota axle bible claims 55.5" WMS to WMS, but my findings are different... I have 56".... after chatting with some of the builders on Pirate, I confirmed with them that the Toy-bible is not accurate. I can live with a +.250" front axle width. Fortunately I was able to also learn that Longfield makes up to +3" longer inners for both Pass/Drive sides of the Toy-mini front.)

I doubt the 8" diff will be a problem... There's something that really pleases me when I think about having two 8" OEM Toy axles under the truck :p



@eimkeith Are you planning to run a 3-link front or those BEEFY radius arms?

3 link - I'm not a fan of radius arms for wheeling (they're great on mountain roads though - I've been abusing the 80 on the asphalt lately. :) )
 

eimkeith

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You should look into the WFO concepts design for the X-member as it might inspire you to consider that for your own x-member and the option of running link mounts off of it!

a little too low for my tastes, and I don't want to limit my link length options until I know what I'm after, geometry-wise. WFO does make some elegant solutions though - I keep an eye on them
 
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a little too low for my tastes, and I don't want to limit my link length options until I know what I'm after, geometry-wise. WFO does make some elegant solutions though - I keep an eye on them

It makes for an attractive mount with the doubler. I'm really trying to crunch some numbers and decide on what I want. I love how high up the T-case mounted crossmember is, but with the change to using the 2x gear cases I am leaning towards building my own crossmember as well.

I figured you'd probably shoot for the 3-link.
 

eimkeith

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It makes for an attractive mount with the doubler. I'm really trying to crunch some numbers and decide on what I want. I love how high up the T-case mounted crossmember is, but with the change to using the 2x gear cases I am leaning towards building my own crossmember as well.

I figured you'd probably shoot for the 3-link.

yeah, the reduction box on the chain case is pretty tall; I'm having to get weird on my mount (like a hammock/sling sort of thing) I'll send you screen shots next time I'm messing with that file.
 

kasnerd

Danny's Red Headed Step Child
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I'm doing FZJ80 rear (full float, 9.5", discs) and hybrid FJ62/80 front (9.5 from the 62, knuckles and birfields from the 80 with the Hellfire Knuckle setup for hi-steer) in an aftermarket housing (for the driver's side drop tcase) in my Taco. I also like the all-Toyota challenge, and don't mind cutting up the Tacoma for uptravel with the wider axles (whereas I really like the looks of the 4Runner and hate to hack it up too much). I also want to do it once and be done with it. :)

I didn't use the 80 rear on the 4Runner because I couldn't narrow it enough to tuck the tires like I want to. But then again, everyone seems to destroy the 7.5" front diff on the 3rd gens, and the rear 8 seems to hold up ok from what I'm seeing? I'm not sure I'd be overly concerned with using a minitruck front axle under it, strength-wise, unless you're planning to go big with the tires...?

giphy.gif


Your words....they are resonating inside the echo chamber that is my cranium right now amongst the other noise of currie, spidertraxx and junkyard dreams for the next phase of the build: upgraded front/rear axles and transfer case. Also, keeping it in the Toyota family for parts is really awesome. Super stoked to see how this turns out for you because it sounds like a fantastic setup.
 
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giphy.gif


Your words....they are resonating inside the echo chamber that is my cranium right now amongst the other noise of currie, spidertraxx and junkyard dreams for the next phase of the build: upgraded front/rear axles and transfer case. Also, keeping it in the Toyota family for parts is really awesome. Super stoked to see how this turns out for you because it sounds like a fantastic setup.

The Landcruiser axles attract me, but if you're really crazy about symmetry and all that jazz look into stretching an 8" mini truck front axle housing. They are 56" wide and someone on Pirate 4x4 made a thread on how to widen it the right way... you can see all that here. Stretch it out 2" on each side and you have a perfect 60" front end to match the rear and you could theoretically swap front and rear diffs in the event of some sort of catastrophic failure. What I love about it is being able to run to any yard and find an open 4:30 rear out of a 3rd gen (or any gear ratio for that matter)... I digress. I have a housing and a spare open diff which is a starting point. I'll work on trussing it over these next few weeks so that I can actually commit to this :oops:
 

kasnerd

Danny's Red Headed Step Child
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The Landcruiser axles attract me, but if you're really crazy about symmetry and all that jazz look into stretching an 8" mini truck front axle housing. They are 56" wide and someone on Pirate 4x4 made a thread on how to widen it the right way... you can see all that here. Stretch it out 2" on each side and you have a perfect 60" front end to match the rear and you could theoretically swap front and rear diffs in the event of some sort of catastrophic failure. What I love about it is being able to run to any yard and find an open 4:30 rear out of a 3rd gen (or any gear ratio for that matter)... I digress. I have a housing and a spare open diff which is a starting point. I'll work on trussing it over these next few weeks so that I can actually commit to this :oops:

damn these forums...booby-trapped rabbit holes of awesome off-road stuff... Imma crack a beer later and read that thread on P4x4 forums. thanks for the link!
 
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damn these forums...booby-trapped rabbit holes of awesome off-road stuff... Imma crack a beer later and read that thread on P4x4 forums. thanks for the link!

It took me years to do anything with the knowledge that I gained from that thread, but the time has come... Alas, Mayhem metalworks no longer makes the widening spacers, but that's pretty easily remedied with sourcing the material which I can link you to and a good machinist local to you :D
 
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