Shock Tech

AssBurns

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All of these are missing flutter shims on compression. You want to add a .08 shim between 2-3 and again between 4-5 (based on the current 6 shim stack numbering).
What diameter shim are you using for a flutter? I've messed with flutter stacks myself but it never seemed to work how I was expecting it to. I figured it would give a more progressive feel to the shocks but it just softened them up a bunch. I ended up doing a really progressive stack where the shims got thicker as the diameter got smaller with a thicker preload shim (digressive piston) for more bleed. Seemed to get me closer to where I wanted with the tuning. I'm sure there is still a ton of room for improvement though.
 
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I figure I'll try to capitalize on the overlander movement. Most of them don't realize what a revalve can do. I'm thinking 100-200 for a tune with a free retune if it doesn't do what they expected. First I have to experiment on my friends though. :peep:
Yea i got similar ideas in mind. Also jeeps would be a cash cow. I follow Liberty_mtn_fab on ig and he's always ripping on the tuning of most jeep kits and poorly done shock services. I figure if i can get even close to decent at it there's money to be made. Imagine how many jeeps, raptors, various yotas are running around here that don't even know their shocks are supposed to get rebuilt eventually and have no idea what a good tune rides like mannnnnnnn:popcorn3:
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
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What diameter shim are you using for a flutter? I've messed with flutter stacks myself but it never seemed to work how I was expecting it to. I figured it would give a more progressive feel to the shocks but it just softened them up a bunch. I ended up doing a really progressive stack where the shims got thicker as the diameter got smaller with a thicker preload shim (digressive piston) for more bleed. Seemed to get me closer to where I wanted with the tuning. I'm sure there is still a ton of room for improvement though.

I'm not sure, whatever the king flutter shim that Filthy sells is. and its .008, not .08.

The double flutter setup I recommended comes from the DSMS taco OEM replacement King, I'm not that clever. I did have good luck playing with the progressive stack you discuss and a flutter shim in the 2 or 3 spot in the stack.

I'm currently using a 2x14 smooth body king, with 20, flutter, 18,18, 20 20, which I really liked for the washboard and potholes we get around here. When I get the front dialed in I'll have to re-visit though.
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
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Yea i got similar ideas in mind. Also jeeps would be a cash cow. I follow Liberty_mtn_fab on ig and he's always ripping on the tuning of most jeep kits and poorly done shock services. I figure if i can get even close to decent at it there's money to be made. Imagine how many jeeps, raptors, various yotas are running around here that don't even know their shocks are supposed to get rebuilt eventually and have no idea what a good tune rides like mannnnnnnn:popcorn3:

I've got all the tools to rebuild king and fox.

If you want to find customers I'll work rebuilds with you in Chester.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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I'm not sure, whatever the king flutter shim that Filthy sells is. and its .008, not .08.

The double flutter setup I recommended comes from the DSMS taco OEM replacement King, I'm not that clever. I did have good luck playing with the progressive stack you discuss and a flutter shim in the 2 or 3 spot in the stack.

I'm currently using a 2x14 smooth body king, with 20, flutter, 18,18, 20 20, which I really liked for the washboard and potholes we get around here. When I get the front dialed in I'll have to re-visit though.
Next time you pull them apart make a spreadsheet with the thickness and diameters of the shims.

Next time I pull my shocks apart, I'll try to add a flutter shim in there and report how it feels. I'd assume it would be much softer initially. I think the problem is I don't have a lot of travel so things that would work with 12 inches of travel don't quite work with things with 8-9" of travel. I'm thinking that by the time I actually blow through the flutter shim, I'm already almost at bump and it's too late for the progressiveness of the bottom half of the stack to really take effect.
 

4runner DOA

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They’re held in high regard but they moved to SD so phooey on them :rofl:

We're such spoiled bitches. It's really not even that far, problem is most of these places aren't open on weekends so Carson or wherever they were was much closer for a quick drive to drop off/pick up. DC shocks is closer in San Dimas, it's like a 25 min drive with no traffic.
 

Itaro

Seriously, FJB
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We're such spoiled bitches. It's really not even that far, problem is most of these places aren't open on weekends so Carson or wherever they were was much closer for a quick drive to drop off/pick up. DC shocks is closer in San Dimas, it's like a 25 min drive with no traffic.
No damnit we deserve all the convenience because of our high cost of living :p
 
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On the 16" kings I've installed the last 7/8" of travel is stopped by the spring cup and rubber stop.
20210519_190639.jpg
In a 1:1 scenario effective making them 15 1/8", working on setting up the air bumps. My thought is to use the "built-in" up stop during a full tuck articulation and set the air bumps in a little from the shocks to function more during hard hits during fast running vs the slower crawling articulation so I don't loose up travel, and don't have to set the bumps with side loading in mind.... thoughts?
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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On the 16" kings I've installed the last 7/8" of travel is stopped by the spring cup and rubber stop.
View attachment 39524
In a 1:1 scenario effective making them 15 1/8", working on setting up the air bumps. My thought is to use the "built-in" up stop during a full tuck articulation and set the air bumps in a little from the shocks to function more during hard hits during fast running vs the slower crawling articulation so I don't loose up travel, and don't have to set the bumps with side loading in mind.... thoughts?
That's how I've always done it. I've always pushed the shocks as far outboard as possible without tire interference for stability purposes. Ideally you want the bump stops as far outboard as possible as well, but it's not always easy to do with packaging constraints. Just put the bumps as far out as realistically possible so it protects your shocks even when you bottom out hard with some mild articulation.
 

4runner DOA

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Finally took a front shock apart.

Few things off the bat. My oil was dirty as fuck. I doubt I have even have 20k total miles, at least half dirt.

PXL_20210604_224014873.jpg

I have two spacers internally, which we believe is costing some travel.

PXL_20210604_225449891.jpg

Flutter shim on the compression stack (right side set)

PXL_20210604_231927367.jpg

And my compression shims are all over the fucking place.

PXL_20210604_235639734.jpg
 

4runner DOA

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And apparently I was supposed to be measuring my shims in inches, not mms. So I'll check them again tomorrow. Might make more sense.
 
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