Trying not to do gears again but I will in a couple of years if it sucks ass. Want skinny 34s though
Skinny 33s are nice. Really just depends on what you plan on doing. I wouldn't go 34-35 unless you really need the clearance.
Trying not to do gears again but I will in a couple of years if it sucks ass. Want skinny 34s though
255/85/16s? I would run them but don’t need m/ts or E rated reallySkinny 33s are nice. Really just depends on what you plan on doing. I wouldn't go 34-35 unless you really need the clearance.
255/85/16s? I would run them but don’t need m/ts or E rated really
Trying not to do gears again but I will in a couple of years if it sucks ass. Want skinny 34s though
I'm running this size, even E-rated they are a bit wiggly on the freeway, high speed turns, I wouldn't think C or D would be more stable.255/85/16s? I would run them but don’t need m/ts or E rated really
Yeah I think I’d rather go with 285s in either 285/70/17 or 285/75/17 to get the C load for the softer freeway ride (daily driver) and less weight overall. 33s are probably the right choice but 34s sound fun and won’t limit me in the future other then being slower. Time will tell, I still have decent tread on the 32s and a lot of other things to do before tires.I'm running this size, even E-rated they are a bit wiggly on the freeway, high speed turns, I wouldn't think C or D would be more stable.
If you go 255/85 R17 (skinny 34s) you will only gain 1/2" clearance and will have to beat your pinch weld more than 33s (minimal clearancing) and you will not fit the stock spare location no matter what.
JM2C
Skinny 34’s would be fine with 4.30 gears. Not ideal but fine. They are smaller and lighter than 35’s. I drove my truck on 35’s with 4.30 gears for about a year. It did okay but regearing was definitely worthwhile. Just know bigger means you need to make room for more tire clearance.Trying not to do gears again but I will in a couple of years if it sucks ass. Want skinny 34s though
Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…Skinny 34’s would be fine with 4.30 gears. Not ideal but fine. They are smaller and lighter than 35’s. I drove my truck on 35’s with 4.30 gears for about a year. It did okay but regearing was definitely worthwhile. Just know bigger means you need to make room for more tire clearance.
I don't know without going back a ways which generation you have, but a friend near me put 34s (295/70-17) on his 5G without a lot of work. Clearance cut up front, BMC, BDS UCAs, removed the front factory mud flaps (installed flatter aftermarket), and 17x8.5" wheels. No reports of rubbage after that. Takes it everywhere (that you can around here).Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…
I don't know without going back a ways which generation you have, but a friend near me put 34s (295/70-17) on his 5G without a lot of work. Clearance cut up front, BMC, BDS UCAs, removed the front factory mud flaps (installed flatter aftermarket), and 17x8.5" wheels. No reports of rubbage after that. Takes it everywhere (that you can around here).
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And 285/70-17 on 17x9 in this photo:
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I ran BFG KO2 in a 285/75/17. After switching the fasteners to countersunk sheet metal screws on my Sport flares, they still grabbed the fender on full compression if my wheel was turned a little less than halfway. It probably would have been fine without flares, but I see you have a limited, so you’ll probably want to trim the flares a bit. I was too stubborn (and lazy) to ever bother with it. Skinny 34’s will probably have the same contact. If you run any other brand of tire for that matter, you’ll probably have more contact than I did since BFG’s run small. I’m not sure how the Limited’s flares compare in that same spot. I know they’re slightly different shape especially near the bottom of the flare. Here’s a photo of the rubbage.Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…
Thanks for the good info guys. Yes I have a limited. wish I could remove the flares without it looking like shit.that’s something I’ll need to think about before pulling the trigger. I was leaning towards the toyo at3 for a lightweight 285/75/17 C load at 58lbs. Might just go classic 285/70/17 or 75/16 and spend my time and money dialing in a good suspension setup…I ran BFG KO2 in a 285/75/17. After switching the fasteners to countersunk sheet metal screws on my Sport flares, they still grabbed the fender on full compression if my wheel was turned a little less than halfway. It probably would have been fine without flares, but I see you have a limited, so you’ll probably want to trim the flares a bit. I was too stubborn (and lazy) to ever bother with it. Skinny 34’s will probably have the same contact. If you run any other brand of tire for that matter, you’ll probably have more contact than I did since BFG’s run small. I’m not sure how the Limited’s flares compare in that same spot. I know they’re slightly different shape especially near the bottom of the flare. Here’s a photo of the rubbage.
View attachment 80338
Shock questions…
2.5 coilovers vs 2.5 resi
-for weekend warrior/daily driver dude who’s not doing anything too crazy or fast and is hours from the desert (plenty of forest roads up in Mendocino county but no go fast shit)
10” 2.0 smooth body’s vs stock location-“ stock size good shocks
-I understand you will lose some up travel with the 10” outboard but make up for it in down travel for Ruts and rocks.
Valving- is there a good starting point for these rigs? I under stand most people just slap them on and call it good but if your spending 2 grand on a shock set up I feel like it should reflect that by being dialed.
Thanks for answering my noob questions. I’m a long term lurker who reads a lot of threads and is eager to learn.
Good info thanks dude. Anyone running bypasses with stock geometry? Probably way overkill but they arnt much more money then 2.5 resi coiloversI ran non resi 2.5 icon front and 2.0 w/ resi in the rear for about 2 years. Granted my rig is heavier, but they were completely fine for the newbie in me that was not pushing the limits.
Once I started getting more comfortable and started pushing the limits, especially in the desert, I felt like they couldn't keep and I switched to 2.5 with resi on all 4 corners. Ran the stock tune they came with until last year when I tuned all 4 corners to deal with all the weight I've added on since I got them.
For slower mountain type stuff I think you'll be fine. You aren't going to be zipping through the trees at 50-70 mph, although I'd wager slow constant work can heat them up just as quick. Buy once cry once. I'm on my 3rd set of shocks.
You may be able to get away with just some major hammering but tubbing is much more ideal.Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…
Resi is always better, but not always necessary. I'd just spend the extra money on them while you are at it. Not that much more to just get the shocks that'll last your needs for a long time.Shock questions…
2.5 coilovers vs 2.5 resi
-for weekend warrior/daily driver dude who’s not doing anything too crazy or fast and is hours from the desert (plenty of forest roads up in Mendocino county but no go fast shit)
10” 2.0 smooth body’s vs stock location-“ stock size good shocks
-I understand you will lose some up travel with the 10” outboard but make up for it in down travel for Ruts and rocks.
Valving- is there a good starting point for these rigs? I under stand most people just slap them on and call it good but if your spending 2 grand on a shock set up I feel like it should reflect that by being dialed.
Thanks for answering my noob questions. I’m a long term lurker who reads a lot of threads and is eager to learn.
Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…
Good info. Was leaning towards the short body 10” 7100s unless I get a shock package with rears for a good price but haven’t found anything more affordable then the 7100 (this is a “budget smiles per mile” build after all).You may be able to get away with just some major hammering but tubbing is much more ideal.
Resi is always better, but not always necessary. I'd just spend the extra money on them while you are at it. Not that much more to just get the shocks that'll last your needs for a long time.
My personal opinion on the outboard shocks is that if you lose uptravel, they aren't worthwhile. Up travel is key to a better ride. I made my own outboard shocks on my 4runner using 12" short body 7100's. Had to notch the frame but didn't lose any up travel (actually gained some). It was well worth it. In this current 4runner I wasn't wanting to go that route so I just got some King 2.5's with resi.