Canadian pussy thread

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Ok so now that I got a good test on the truck I figured out some shit to change.

I need more uptravel.

I need a different spot for my fuel tank lol. Probably get a cell.

Different/new sliders

Front coilovers need some adjusting

My upper link is actually contacting the side of the block when the passenger side is fully drooped and the drivers side is stuffed. There’s a few marks in the plate and one mounting bolt my transmission skid mount. I just che led it out and it’s very close when stuffed and obviously moves enough to touch. So i need to move my upper link mount over about an inch toward the frame.

Here’s a pic-
255-DBC4-E-E1-B9-42-A9-8-BD8-175578-E41289.jpg

E1-A7-F0-B4-60-A7-4-DEB-9693-ABDFFE8-B3729.jpg


Anyone have any idea on how to fix this upper link? All I can think of to do it cut of off and angle it over to get more clearance.

If I move the link mount over, bend the upper link a little and bend my panhard, I can get 3-4” more uptravel at this ride height. Which would be awesome and I think worth the work. I was having a helluva time keeping up with the buggies.


I need to cut off my frame under the rear door and redo the rear section of my frame again. I found a crack in the frame where the factory boxing ends.
452-F0-F98-A028-4475-952-E-A5-BA54667-EC7.jpg


So I’m thinking fix the rear frame with some 2x4 tube, link the back, fuel cell or ford tank, all new storage solution. Update the front suspension to gain a bunch of uptravel. The rear should be able to keep up with the front, and it should ride pretty nice.
Definitely go fuel cell. It’s more expensive but you can get more reliable parts, and more capacity.

bummer about the upper link making contact. Hard to tell from the pics, but can you just put a slight bend in it? Not ideal but way less work and only a very slight bend wouldn’t cause major strength issues.
 

eimkeith

IFSFFS.
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I have decent travel but I know I’m just going to bend it again
but you're after more uptravel, right? raise the shackles and run a bumpstop?

- that is, if you're good with leafs...
 

Slim-Whitey

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0598-C3-C8-B9-FC-4935-89-E4-5-B38-BF35-C51-B.jpg


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A ratchet strap and I’m good.

So I cut off my shock mounts, bumper, and unbolted the tube work I had on there, and basically I get to redo it all. Then I’ll redo it again when I link the rear. Because I can’t afford to link it now


That's why I just don't do it until I can do it all at once.
Which is usually never XD

It suck ya gotta do it all over again. No chances of just living on spaghetti and hotdogs and linking it,?
 

Dukestaco

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That sucks. Try to work the new design around the future linked design. Hopefully that will keep you from having to do everything all over again. Just some minimal cutting and Fab work.
 

Slim-Whitey

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Ooooo you meant just a wee bit!

I thought you were loading this thing seriously.
Which I was just so. . . So confused about.
 
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I’ve always liked this look. If you can fit the tailgate that makes it even better. I may have to build a rack like you did to store crap. A full size spare takes up a lot of room.

4F333087-E2A9-4CBD-90E1-7FA4A0C27D7D.png93ED54DD-C1CF-451C-80D4-EFB07E66506C.jpeg
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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There’s some other bullshit in the garage taking up space right now, I don’t have material, and I’m still in the thought phase of this so far. (I’m actually thinking). So I haven’t gotten anywhere yet. It’s really annoying the shit out of me. So I painted the fuel cell so at least I’ve done something.

795-A4-F10-7-AE6-41-AD-A1-D6-2-B2-A04-CEC06-C.jpg

Hit it with steel it.


I’m still trying to figure out what to do for mounting this. And the spare behind it. I’ll get some pelican type cases and mount those in the bed(I need something better than actionpackers anyway). As well as maybe a few different sizes ammo cans? Try to fit lots of stuff back there even with a fullsize spare. I’m going to use the same rails I made for the bed rack, so that should slide back on. Which is a big help for campin.

So with a fullsize spare in the bed there will be no tailgate for sure. But, when I pull the spare out, maybe I’ll keep the tube clear so I can fit the tailgate back on? Ya know, for that stock look.

Anyone have any ideas? I’m looking at all this trying to concoct something....

2-DF613-C1-7-E81-4-C84-A4-A1-E26-C9-C04-F96-E.png

9255-A57-C-F401-466-B-BFA6-F2-E5-DEB8-D517.png


What I usually do it just start cutting tube and go with the flow. But this needs to be slick.
What about a tire gate or cargo box under the spare on a lift gate.

My buddy made this.
http://instagr.am/p/BktNOTkF_-t/
http://instagr.am/p/Bk0eoqNlfWg/


or a tire gate like this.
http://instagr.am/p/BBu9VwWuhFh/
 

Slim-Whitey

Canadian hoser, Eh?
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It's because the frame isn't a "box", it's two Ls or C's welded together, and it's a metric based measurement, not an imperial one.

It'll be 140x50, not 5.5x2.5.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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They may go up a little. I had loads of room for uptravel before. I’m wondering if I should narrow the frame at the back for coilovers in the future?
Unless you plan to redo the rails when you link it, then definitely narrow it a bit to make sure you have plenty of room for coilovers. If you can (depending on how your bed is cut already or how you plan to cut it), move the frame rails up a little to made sure you always have plenty of up travel. People forget how important up travel really is to keep comfort while having a low ride height. It seems all people care about is how much it can droop, but in reality it needs to be able to tuck a tire and not hit bumps over every decent sized bump in the road.
 
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