DIY 1 Ton IFS Long Travel

Slim-Whitey

Canadian hoser, Eh?
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A friend has powerstop on his baja-type truck.

They're good, very good, according to him. But the break-in (setting of the pads) is really hardcore, and he had some issues with heat.

His only complaint. Since then, they've been good to him.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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A friend has powerstop on his baja-type truck.

They're good, very good, according to him. But the break-in (setting of the pads) is really hardcore, and he had some issues with heat.

His only complaint. Since then, they've been good to him.
Good to know. My brother was telling me that he's heard good things about them. He is upper up in a auto parts supplier so he deals with reps and feedback on parts since he is in charge of inventory n shit. He said PowerStop and StopTech are the good ones. StopTech is the higher end company to Centric which are pretty good. Sounds like PowerStop is the most bang for the buck.
 

Rockdawg84

Confidence the feeling before fully understanding
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We ran power stop drilled and slotted rotors on my wifes 80 all the way around and they were very good especially for the price!
 

AssBurns

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We ran power stop drilled and slotted rotors on my wifes 80 all the way around and they were very good especially for the price!
I've never been a fan of drilled/slotted rotors, I always felt it was sort of gimmicky for most practical uses. I'll probably go with blank rotors, but I may be able to be convinced to try something new. I had drilled rotors on my motorcycle and they were so fucking noisy it drove me nuts!
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Playing with CAD just to get an idea on layout. This is by no means an attempt at the final product. Just some practicing and visualization. Still looking for a CAD file for an 05+ Super Duty F250/350 outer stub shaft (using 1480 joints). This file is the Super 60 F450/550 using the 1550 joints. Since one is bigger, the offset from the hub is different and the stub shaft is shorter on the 1480 model. That's the model I'd like to use.
1571380256402.png

1571380204021.png
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
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I've never been a fan of drilled/slotted rotors, I always felt it was sort of gimmicky for most practical uses. I'll probably go with blank rotors, but I may be able to be convinced to try something new. I had drilled rotors on my motorcycle and they were so fucking noisy it drove me nuts!

Drilled is kinda meh for most applications, unless pad outgassing is your primary concern. And if it is I'd tell you to run better pads.

Slotted, however, is great when you're in really wet conditions and the rotors have time to cool between braking events.
 

eimkeith

IFSFFS.
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Drilled is kinda meh for most applications, unless pad outgassing is your primary concern. And if it is I'd tell you to run better pads.

Slotted, however, is great when you're in really wet conditions and the rotors have time to cool between braking events.

drilled is a gimmick - bad 60s tech; tend to crack between holes with hard use. slotted is for cleaning/wiping the pads, and it works.
 

Slim-Whitey

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drilled is a gimmick - bad 60s tech; tend to crack between holes with hard use. slotted is for cleaning/wiping the pads, and it works.

Sport and race bikes have been doing it for decades. It can work well but only really with solid discs that are evenly heated (like a dual sided caliper on a bike pressing from each side).

Works well for expansion under hardcore use.
 

eimkeith

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Sport and race bikes have been doing it for decades. . .
Works well for expansion under hardcore use.

cars not so much. cracks propagate between holes, then eventually to the outside of the rotor (catastrophically)

Porsche abandoned it for a reason. :)
 

Slim-Whitey

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cars not so much. cracks propagate between holes, then eventually to the outside of the rotor (catastrophically)

Porsche abandoned it for a reason. :)

With thicker discs you don't get the even heating characteristics as easily. You've also typically got two surfaces with venting fins between.

The geometry just isn't there to take advantage of it, you're right.
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
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Sport and race bikes have been doing it for decades. It can work well but only really with solid discs that are evenly heated (like a dual sided caliper on a bike pressing from each side).

Works well for expansion under hardcore use.

Yes, there's also a different ratio of rotor surface area to hole surface area on the bike rotor.
 
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Hi.
Checking in here, I'm working on this project with ya boy Steven.
Photos attached are of us working on getting the housing together.
We'll see how it goes, I have some file editing to do before we finish cutting out the rest of the housing.
I also picked up some Currie axle ends in anticipation of being able to use them to screw the stub axles down to the housing. They appear to be a perfect match.
 

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Joined
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And...it may be beat the fucc up and it may or may not have been found in a yard...but its a differential nonetheless and it will be prettied up after a while.
Parts are coming together.
Fast.
 

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4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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friend
at what point do the beers get drank?
im missing a critical step in your process here and it's rather distressing.

Don't pay too much attention to the raging Canuck. He's got no girl and no beer, but he has a dog, a garage full of tools, and nothing but time to constantly build and rebuild his rig after spending copious hours building shit he didn't like the first time.
 
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