All that and a bag of chips.I run SPC Jounce bumps on the front. They are ultra short 1.5" stroke which is well suited for IFS. I'm not running any front end reinforcement so bumping off the lower twisted the frame quite a bit. Performance at speed is killer, but I don't really need them. I never got around to adding rears and I don't really plan on it.
No way! Bypasses control majority of your suspension travel, whereas bumps control the bump zone (The last couple inches of travel). Pair them together and you'll have a pretty solid setup. Just need to make sure they are tuned properly to make it worthwhile.glad this was brought up, this has been my conundrum. from what i've read getting hydro's is definitely the way to go, but do they make having bypass's pointless?
I need bumps.
What’s the cheapest 2” diameter 3” travel hydro bump ya got?We can ship to Canada...
Sending you a PM nowWhat’s the cheapest 2” diameter 3” travel hydro bump ya got?
Any opinions on the Tc kit for the 5th gen mini vans? Uses a threaded king 2.0x2”. Simple weld on mount outside of frame rail. Running fox 2.0 shocks currently with wheeler 1.5” springs and it’s absolutely baller on a budget setup, amazes me lol. But stock bumps are harsh.
He offers a forum discount.Any opinions on the Tc kit for the 5th gen mini vans? Uses a threaded king 2.0x2”. Simple weld on mount outside of frame rail. Running fox 2.0 shocks currently with wheeler 1.5” springs and it’s absolutely baller on a budget setup, amazes me lol. But stock bumps are harsh.
Any opinions on the Tc kit for the 5th gen mini vans? Uses a threaded king 2.0x2”. Simple weld on mount outside of frame rail. Running fox 2.0 shocks currently with wheeler 1.5” springs and it’s absolutely baller on a budget setup, amazes me lol. But stock bumps are harsh.
Also you need to tune them to your vehicle so you'll need access to a Nitrogen tank at minimum.Hydro bumps are the best. I'm running King 2x2.5 in the back.
@Plastics Guy Durobumps are the best value for the money. I've used his 3.5 and 5" taco bumps in the back. Still have his in the front.
Until you are going fast enough, long enough, to overheat the dual durometer rubber and break it, the added cost of going to hydros doesn't justify the expense of doing so. Especially when you consider that hydros are a rebuildable shock, so they require maintenance.
Yep, and a no loss regulator.Also you need to tune them to your vehicle so you'll need access to a Nitrogen tank at minimum.
Yep, and a no loss regulator.
Also you need to tune them to your vehicle so you'll need access to a Nitrogen tank at minimum.
For crawling, that's not the worst idea lolnaw i was gonna just mount them low so they always in contact with the axle that way they're bump stops and bypasses...science.