Welders, welding, and stuff

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Some recent welds, still trying to get more consistent.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Obv's these are just the decent ones. So far I have had no reason to need to switch to .035 wire from my .023 that came with the welder. If I was going to weld some sliders or something I'd probably switch but for now this covers my needs.
 

Stairgod

Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
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Some recent welds, still trying to get more consistent.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Obv's these are just the decent ones. So far I have had no reason to need to switch to .035 wire from my .023 that came with the welder. If I was going to weld some sliders or something I'd probably switch but for now this covers my needs.
Looking great buddy.
Unless you run out of wire feed speed at Max amperage, no reason to swap to .035
 
Joined
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Dude. You’re looking better than my flux core welds. Gas makes welding almost to easy. Those look great and strong. I popped out a few beads last weekend with my stick welder and was doing great till I ran out of newish rods and dipped into some from a friend’s grandpa. Then shit met fan and I hooked up the ground to the mig to finish. Pretty soon we’ll all be asking you for help.
 
Joined
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Looking great buddy.
Unless you run out of wire feed speed at Max amperage, no reason to swap to .035

Thanks Jon! I actually am going to be welding quite a bit of 3/16" today, so I am thinking about switching just for today to learn how to switch it.

Dude. You’re looking better than my flux core welds. Gas makes welding almost to easy. Those look great and strong. I popped out a few beads last weekend with my stick welder and was doing great till I ran out of newish rods and dipped into some from a friend’s grandpa. Then shit met fan and I hooked up the ground to the mig to finish. Pretty soon we’ll all be asking you for help.

Thanks man. I feel your pain because I started with stick as my first machine, welding on thin stuff. Now that I am working with gas I don't ever want to go near slag again, mostly for time savings above all.
 

Chris In Milwaukee

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Too cold to paint anything today, so thought I’d give my cheap azz Harbor Freight tube notcher a run. It was sitting on the doorstep this morning, so let’s make holes. Put a 3/4” hole in a piece of 1-1/8”x.063” and stuck a piece of 3/4”x.063 in it and welded it up. Not too bad since I last picked up the torch a couple or more weeks ago. Need to practice better heat control near the edges. I’ll see if pulse helps out. Could probably stand to use a bit more filler, too. Looking a little shallow in places.

97C8ECF2-785B-4BC6-BAA1-81557685EB61.jpeg0AAC539B-642A-4A49-BE4E-B3AC1E679FD8.jpeg
 
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Go see you’re local welding supply shop. They often have trade ins or other great options. Hobart is a solid machine. If I had to buy again, I’d go with flex voltage machine I could afford. The 220 is awesome, but limited in a portable sense and the110 can’t do thick stuff and I’m always on an extension cord. Flex is awesome. My .02 enjoy whatever you get and practice with it and your welds will improve.
 

Thesandaddict

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Go see you’re local welding supply shop. They often have trade ins or other great options. Hobart is a solid machine. If I had to buy again, I’d go with flex voltage machine I could afford. The 220 is awesome, but limited in a portable sense and the110 can’t do thick stuff and I’m always on an extension cord. Flex is awesome. My .02 enjoy whatever you get and practice with it and your welds will improve.
i realize i deleted the original post, but i think im going to opt for the lincoln HD140 instead. buddy mentioned that the local supply houses may not carry parts if it does need a repair, and seeing as the lincoln is only $50 more, id rather have the peace of mind. ive stick welded a bit, just want something for the house and repairs to the buggy. i think this will work well, my concern now is realizing my garage is littered with 15 and 20 amp circuits and i would rather have a 30 just so its not popping off. but it does say 20 amp 120 will work...so...i guess ill roll the dice

thanks!
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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i realize i deleted the original post, but i think im going to opt for the lincoln HD140 instead. buddy mentioned that the local supply houses may not carry parts if it does need a repair, and seeing as the lincoln is only $50 more, id rather have the peace of mind. ive stick welded a bit, just want something for the house and repairs to the buggy. i think this will work well, my concern now is realizing my garage is littered with 15 and 20 amp circuits and i would rather have a 30 just so its not popping off. but it does say 20 amp 120 will work...so...i guess ill roll the dice

thanks!
Hobart uses the same consumables as Miller. It’s made by the same company. I’ve used plenty of Hobart consumables on my Miller.
 

Thesandaddict

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Hobart uses the same consumables as Miller. It’s made by the same company. I’ve used plenty of Hobart consumables on my Miller.
Ah good info. I still am leaning towards the lincoln as of now since the price is almost the same (Hobart is $520, Lincoln $575) and the lincoln package includes a longer lead and 2 rolls of wire, one flux core and one mig, extra 5 tips and a spare shield where as the hobart lead is 2' shorter, and only comes with 1 roll of flux core. Also if I ever want to sell the lincoln will always fetch more on the market
 

AssBurns

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Ah good info. I still am leaning towards the lincoln as of now since the price is almost the same (Hobart is $520, Lincoln $575) and the lincoln package includes a longer lead and 2 rolls of wire, one flux core and one mig, extra 5 tips and a spare shield where as the hobart lead is 2' shorter, and only comes with 1 roll of flux core. Also if I ever want to sell the lincoln will always fetch more on the market
Yeah the used market doesn’t seem to like Hobart as much even though it’s basically a Miller in different packaging in many cases. Is Miller that much more than a Lincoln?
 

Thesandaddict

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Yeah the used market doesn’t seem to like Hobart as much even though it’s basically a Miller in different packaging in many cases. Is Miller that much more than a Lincoln?
Little hunting I did showed minimum $150 ($875~) more for the miller
 

Chris In Milwaukee

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Miller is built just up the road from me a couple hours. I still ended up with Lincoln because it's what I learned on. I don't know that you could go wrong with either, though.
 

Dezert4Runner

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Most of the Home Depot exclusive Lincoln’s are tapped voltage and so is the Hobart. The Lincoln Power mig only sold at welding supplies is the continuous where the Home Depot “WeldPak” or whatever they call it has preset tapped settings.

I’ve been looking at classifieds for a little while recently for something that’s close to or at 140a since I only have access to 110v outlets, and the tapped setting Lincoln’s and Hobarts are similarly priced. I don’t see a clear price difference on the used market. I saw an older Millermatic 135 that the guy wants $850 for. A brand new 141 is the new equivalent, and that’s about what they cost new. Some people price them at or above new because they’re fucking retards. Point being, used lower end Lincoln’s and Hobart are equals in my mind.
 

Thesandaddict

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Most of the Home Depot exclusive Lincoln’s are tapped voltage and so is the Hobart. The Lincoln Power mig only sold at welding supplies is the continuous where the Home Depot “WeldPak” or whatever they call it has preset tapped settings.

I’ve been looking at classifieds for a little while recently for something that’s close to or at 140a since I only have access to 110v outlets, and the tapped setting Lincoln’s and Hobarts are similarly priced. I don’t see a clear price difference on the used market. I saw an older Millermatic 135 that the guy wants $850 for. A brand new 141 is the new equivalent, and that’s about what they cost new. Some people price them at or above new because they’re fucking retards. Point being, used lower end Lincoln’s and Hobart are equals in my mind.
exactly why i was looking at a new one as well. used weldpak 140 is $450 or so, with or without accessories, brand new is $575 with almost everything you need to get rolling and i can put it on the HD cc and not have to pay it right now. i have similar constraints with power, and im hoping the few receptacles i have will do. what makes me worry is the outlet isnt the slotted 20amp, but the breaker is.

god i hate electrical
 

AssBurns

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Piece of advise is don't get something too small or something with limited settings. You'll outgrow it very quickly and take a loss on selling it. Get at least a 180 at minimum. But if you want to buy something that will last for pretty much any garage fab work, then get a dual voltage welder. Only reason I'll ever get rid of my Miller 211 would be if I got a multiprocess machine. Maybe someday, but I'll likely just get a TIG machine in addition to the 211 MIG.
 

Stairgod

Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
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exactly why i was looking at a new one as well. used weldpak 140 is $450 or so, with or without accessories, brand new is $575 with almost everything you need to get rolling and i can put it on the HD cc and not have to pay it right now. i have similar constraints with power, and im hoping the few receptacles i have will do. what makes me worry is the outlet isnt the slotted 20amp, but the breaker is.

god i hate electrical
No big deal to swap in a 20 amp receptacle, but you can keep the 15 amp one you have and use it without issue. You will never make that 20 amp breaker pop with that machine.
 
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