AssBurns BeerRunner Build Thread

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,887
Location
OC
I need a new fairlead for the new bumper since the one I have is super bulky and would just make things not fit the way I'd like. I was initially going to just get some cheap low profile one from Amazon for like $20, but after reading a little about fairleads, I came to the conclusion that it probably would be best to just get something that I know will last and hold up to abuse. Since I'm designing my bumper to have a recessed fairlead, I need to know the exact measurements of the fairlead to make it fit nice and tight. I was worried that a cheap fairlead would be cast aluminum instead of high quality billet. Cast aluminum is more likely to crack or chip and fuck up the synthetic winch line, so I decided on something higher end that I wouldn't need to replace later. Only reason I justified spending $70 on a fairlead is because I just sold some old motorcycle parts on eBay yesterday for $80. I almost threw the parts in the trash, but figured someone might actually want them. Glad I listed it instead of tossing it.

The new one is a Factor 55 1.0" fairlead.


View attachment 11040

I'm running a cheap amazon one. No issues on the pulls I've done. I had to pull Bryan (fjbruiser) off a high center situation at the end of Holcomb. I was at the top of the hill, he was at the bottom trying to cross the exit boulders. With steel cable, and I'm sure it was on the fairlead because of the angle, it didn't even make a mark on the fairlead.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
I'm running a cheap amazon one. No issues on the pulls I've done. I had to pull Bryan (fjbruiser) off a high center situation at the end of Holcomb. I was at the top of the hill, he was at the bottom trying to cross the exit boulders. With steel cable, and I'm sure it was on the fairlead because of the angle, it didn't even make a mark on the fairlead.
Not something I was willing to roll the dice on since it’s super hard to change fab work later on. Plus that sold part made up for it.
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,887
Location
OC
Not something I was willing to roll the dice on since it’s super hard to change fab work later on. Plus that sold part made up for it.

They're all pretty universal as far as mounting these days. I think a lot of the bumper manufacturers and aftermarket fairlead manufacturers all keep within the same specs.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
They're all pretty universal as far as mounting these days. I think a lot of the bumper manufacturers and aftermarket fairlead manufacturers all keep within the same specs.
Most bumpers have a flat surface to mount on, with the standard 10" mounting width. Now the the rest of the dimensions are all over the place.
Some fairleads have a total width of 11.75" and some are up to 12.5".
Some have rope opening heights of .75" and some are 1".
Some have rope opening widths of 7.5" and others are 8"
Some are only 2.875" tall, while others are over 4" tall.
Some are .625" thick, and others are up to 1.75" thick.

There are a lot of variables that I didn't even know about until yesterday when I started messing with CAD models. So besides the universal 10" mounting width, the rest of the dimensions are completely variable by the manufacturers. If I build my recessed fairlead mount for something slim, and it breaks then I am shit out of luck when I go to replace it with something better. Same with the reverse. I don't want to design it to be huge, when it can be lower profile and not look like shit with all sorts of gaps.
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,887
Location
OC
Most bumpers have a flat surface to mount on, with the standard 10" mounting width. Now the the rest of the dimensions are all over the place.
Some fairleads have a total width of 11.75" and some are up to 12.5".
Some have rope opening heights of .75" and some are 1".
Some have rope opening widths of 7.5" and others are 8"
Some are only 2.875" tall, while others are over 4" tall.
Some are .625" thick, and others are up to 1.75" thick.

There are a lot of variables that I didn't even know about until yesterday when I started messing with CAD models. So besides the universal 10" mounting width, the rest of the dimensions are completely variable by the manufacturers. If I build my recessed fairlead mount for something slim, and it breaks then I am shit out of luck when I go to replace it with something better. Same with the reverse. I don't want to design it to be huge, when it can be lower profile and not look like shit with all sorts of gaps.

Must have missed the part where you were recessing into the bumper instead of mounting on the outside like your typical bumper.
 
Joined
Oct 4, 2018
Messages
492
Age
51
Location
Mesa
It’s a harbor freight tube roller. I borrowed it from a buddy. He added some plate to the sides to stiffen it up more too.

can’t post a link for some reason. Google works too
Thanks I will check it out. I have been watching your mods on IG. Good work. :beerscheers:
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Got a bit more done today. Didn’t do anything the last few days since I’ve been busy, but got some stuff done this evening after I got home from the lake with my brother on his new boat.
Got the winch plate done, rolled and bent the top main tube, some more frame plates made, and trimmed the frame rails back. I have a few pieces I need to weld but the batteries died in my welding hood, so I can’t weld shit. I’m hoping it’s just the batteries and not that my shit is fucked. I have had it for 7 years now, and 3 of those years was welding every day. Still shouldn’t be broken yet.

Also burnt the shit out of two of my fingers. I was using an angle grinder with a cut off wheel to cut the grill, and my dumbass wasn’t wearing gloves. A big ole glob of molten plastic got on my fingers and burnt the shit out of me. Each index finger has a decent burn and blister now. :deadbanana:

52A5CBFD-6402-408E-A519-DBA6BB38EAA9.jpeg879337A9-A3E8-466B-BBF8-D957A8672C92.jpeg83158BD8-5E24-4D97-A537-A81903DFDF00.jpeg6B272EA3-4CA2-4E70-B0C5-9007C51BF8F3.jpeg9BCAE0FC-8DCD-4359-B242-4080C53722EC.jpegE22F2488-50D0-45A8-8791-36D1FC388BBE.jpeg8F2562A9-1315-46D4-95B7-727AAE2B3CE7.jpeg
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Doesn’t look like much got done today, but got the side tubes tacked in, more frame plates made, some stuff welded, frame horns made, just need to DA them before they get welded on. I’m hoping my DA is still in my dads garage somewhere. I clamped the old skid on to the new bumper to get a visual, and it would probably still work for this new bumper. If I wasn’t selling the old bumper, I’d probably make it work.

Tomorrow I’m doing an X where the skid will go. I need to run to the metal supply to get some .095 tubing for all the rest of the bumper and cage. My dumbass got an extra .120 wall tube instead of a .095” tube. At least I’ll have an extra .120” wall DOM tube for later. I’ll also be doing a few more frame plates, and should probably get some more 1/8” plate.

7BF13891-5671-4124-AF00-56903B3B08BA.jpeg2E83A1F2-63BA-47D7-B67E-33B693736051.jpeg1FDC557C-15C3-4486-8BAC-A57E98DE5F89.jpeg
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Ran out of welding gas the other day and I was sort of stuck on moving forward on things. I got some more frame plates made for the frame horns, welded those all in, welded in the bumper side tubes, and made the first tube for the X behind the skid plate. I decided to go with .095” wall tubing for this and all the cage support tubes to save weight. The main structure is all .120” wall though. Man that X tube was a pain in the ass to notch properly. Such high angles and flat plates mixed with round tubing made it time consuming. Tonight I’ll try to get the other part of the X brace done and move onto the “engine cage to bumper tie-in” tubes. The goal on this project is to take my time and try to do things the “right” way, with as little shortcuts as possible since this should be the last bumper I build for this truck. I’m trying to keep it light as possible while still keeping it plenty strong. I’m trying to use lighter materials and stack fish plates where the strength is needed, instead of just using 3/16” everywhere like I have in the past. It’s more time consuming this way, but it should save some weight and be just as strong where it’s actually needed.

@malburg114, I got that anti-splatter spray. That stuff works great! I can’t believe it took me this many years to know about this stuff. What a game changer. Also found my DA, gonna get some 80 grit discs and follow your suite and start cleaning my material before working on it. Thanks for the tips :beerscheers:

EC7212C8-F785-43A3-83E4-D732573E1EAE.jpegC71484B1-A317-4173-B7BC-3273DD2D9E1A.jpeg38FD1ABB-0FD6-4C12-A577-2E68577CAAB0.jpegF7020F82-BECA-4DC1-BCC2-FA5374BE7477.jpeg129240AC-89E7-4B79-87CD-337BF314B963.jpeg7D9E28A0-F38D-4BED-BFFA-A15884A6CC40.jpegC68D6771-5F68-4C18-9201-AB87364E5DB3.jpeg
 
Joined
Jul 23, 2019
Messages
249
Age
27
Ran out of welding gas the other day and I was sort of stuck on moving forward on things. I got some more frame plates made for the frame horns, welded those all in, welded in the bumper side tubes, and made the first tube for the X behind the skid plate. I decided to go with .095” wall tubing for this and all the cage support tubes to save weight. The main structure is all .120” wall though. Man that X tube was a pain in the ass to notch properly. Such high angles and flat plates mixed with round tubing made it time consuming. Tonight I’ll try to get the other part of the X brace done and move onto the “engine cage to bumper tie-in” tubes. The goal on this project is to take my time and try to do things the “right” way, with as little shortcuts as possible since this should be the last bumper I build for this truck. I’m trying to keep it light as possible while still keeping it plenty strong. I’m trying to use lighter materials and stack fish plates where the strength is needed, instead of just using 3/16” everywhere like I have in the past. It’s more time consuming this way, but it should save some weight and be just as strong where it’s actually needed.

@malburg114, I got that anti-splatter spray. That stuff works great! I can’t believe it took me this many years to know about this stuff. What a game changer. Also found my DA, gonna get some 80 grit discs and follow your suite and start cleaning my material before working on it. Thanks for the tips :beerscheers:

View attachment 11331View attachment 11332View attachment 11333View attachment 11334View attachment 11335View attachment 11336View attachment 11337
I said the same thing when I finally got it haha. Ordered another can today so I have an extra sitting around. Nice welds! those are some long runs which is even more impressive.
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
Fredo Baggins
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
3,494
Location
Bishop, CA
Ran out of welding gas the other day and I was sort of stuck on moving forward on things. I got some more frame plates made for the frame horns, welded those all in, welded in the bumper side tubes, and made the first tube for the X behind the skid plate. I decided to go with .095” wall tubing for this and all the cage support tubes to save weight. The main structure is all .120” wall though. Man that X tube was a pain in the ass to notch properly. Such high angles and flat plates mixed with round tubing made it time consuming. Tonight I’ll try to get the other part of the X brace done and move onto the “engine cage to bumper tie-in” tubes. The goal on this project is to take my time and try to do things the “right” way, with as little shortcuts as possible since this should be the last bumper I build for this truck. I’m trying to keep it light as possible while still keeping it plenty strong. I’m trying to use lighter materials and stack fish plates where the strength is needed, instead of just using 3/16” everywhere like I have in the past. It’s more time consuming this way, but it should save some weight and be just as strong where it’s actually needed.

@malburg114, I got that anti-splatter spray. That stuff works great! I can’t believe it took me this many years to know about this stuff. What a game changer. Also found my DA, gonna get some 80 grit discs and follow your suite and start cleaning my material before working on it. Thanks for the tips :beerscheers:

View attachment 11331View attachment 11332View attachment 11333View attachment 11334View attachment 11335View attachment 11336View attachment 11337

Nice bro. I got faith you'll have it buttoned up in no time. Maybe you can use San G is a shakedown for Dusy.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Nice bro. I got faith you'll have it buttoned up in no time. Maybe you can use San G is a shakedown for Dusy.
That's the plan. @Hank is coming over this weekend, so I'm sure we'll make some good progress on things. I'm hoping to have the bumper finished up tomorrow night, then finish the cage and mounting the fenders, headlights, grill, and wiring over the weekend and following week. Lot's left to do, but I think I'll have the time. Also need to make some skids again. Might actually make a transmission skid finally haha.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Got quite a bit done in between all the beers @Hank and I killed.
Fenders are mounted, headlights mounted, fuse box mounted, and bumper is finished besides aluminum skid (if I do a skid), and trimming the corners off the top tube.
Still need to finish two tubes for the engine cage, mount the AC condenser, mount the grill, install the battery and all electrical, then make some IFS and trans skids.

The bumper turned out exactly as I planned, which I could not be more happy with. I think I am going to not do the low profile stinger over the fairlead. I don’t see the point in it. Save the effort and weight without it.
@Hank got some of the electrical cleaned up for me. We also figured out how we are going to link his 2nd gen Tacoma with coilovers. He bought everything besides shocks, fuel cell and metal for the 4-link conversion. It’s gonna be rad!

some pics of progress.

61EDEFE8-43A0-47C1-84BF-434C2AD2B4BE.jpeg2805BEF2-339B-46A4-8184-D6EE03800409.jpeg4A195D4D-6778-409B-8AF4-1F9A3EB1DE2D.jpegCC8D5939-E8D2-43EF-A953-2CD4FF6E04FF.jpeg97266EEC-AC3F-443C-9ED7-BBAE0FD9AD25.jpegA0A12211-DA5B-48B5-9866-13AA73D9A26A.jpeg5941A995-B962-4C01-9400-1DF210599B9B.jpegDAABB34E-DD54-4FDD-866D-25D19AFFBE56.jpeg
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,887
Location
OC
Got quite a bit done in between all the beers @Hank and I killed.
Fenders are mounted, headlights mounted, fuse box mounted, and bumper is finished besides aluminum skid (if I do a skid), and trimming the corners off the top tube.
Still need to finish two tubes for the engine cage, mount the AC condenser, mount the grill, install the battery and all electrical, then make some IFS and trans skids.

The bumper turned out exactly as I planned, which I could not be more happy with. I think I am going to not do the low profile stinger over the fairlead. I don’t see the point in it. Save the effort and weight without it.
@Hank got some of the electrical cleaned up for me. We also figured out how we are going to link his 2nd gen Tacoma with coilovers. He bought everything besides shocks, fuel cell and metal for the 4-link conversion. It’s gonna be rad!

some pics of progress.

View attachment 11525View attachment 11526View attachment 11527View attachment 11528View attachment 11529View attachment 11530View attachment 11531View attachment 11532

@Hank still doesn't have a crawl box. All them links and no crawl control. :anon:
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,887
Location
OC
@Hank Still doesn't have 37's. Which means he needs to get me those so I can throw them on my rig. lol

@AssBurns You plan on linking @Hank rig before the Dusy? lol

He got scared and decided not to put them on last I heard. Probably still has the set in his garage. I'd say you could get them cheap but we all know Kyle's a Jew at heart.
 
Top Bottom