Ok, it's finally starting. 95 Rodeo D44 SAS build
- Thread starter Slim-Whitey
- Start date
That you did.
When we buy a house, I'm going to put a sign in a window that says "Dukes window", since you saved me enough to pay for that window, probably.
Hope I don't have to butcher up my case to fit it.
When we buy a house, I'm going to put a sign in a window that says "Dukes window", since you saved me enough to pay for that window, probably.
Hope I don't have to butcher up my case to fit it.
Last edited:
Sweet. No the 10 pounders fit in the 180hd.That you did.
When we buy a house, I'm going to put a sign in a window that says "Dukes window", since you saved me enough to pay for that window, probably.
Hope I don't have to butcher up my case to fit it.
Giving this little fucker a go on the doors.
Did things. Stuck metal together. Looks terrible. Has potential. Probably still look like shit when it's done. But it's a junkyard hackjob project so it's par for the course.
Kept the bottom plastic, figured some amount of door storage would be nice, and look good.
Leaving everything big for now to cut it down later. It's going ok for being my first time working with sheet metal, although I definitely need a metal break if I'm going to continue this.
Was going to try my had at welding the outer door skin to the new panels, but a test piece left me realizing it's just to thin. I could probably rosette it if I could run the new, thicker sheet under the door skin, but that'd require a fairly precision made piece, and we all know that's beyond me unless it's made of wood.
Will probably drill out the few rivets in springtime for paint. With no heat in the shop I can't be painting in there.
They won't rust out sitting in the shop anyway.
As an aside, cold metal works great when you need to weld thinner stuff than you should be able too. Just sucks the heat out.
Kept the bottom plastic, figured some amount of door storage would be nice, and look good.
Leaving everything big for now to cut it down later. It's going ok for being my first time working with sheet metal, although I definitely need a metal break if I'm going to continue this.
Was going to try my had at welding the outer door skin to the new panels, but a test piece left me realizing it's just to thin. I could probably rosette it if I could run the new, thicker sheet under the door skin, but that'd require a fairly precision made piece, and we all know that's beyond me unless it's made of wood.
Will probably drill out the few rivets in springtime for paint. With no heat in the shop I can't be painting in there.
They won't rust out sitting in the shop anyway.
As an aside, cold metal works great when you need to weld thinner stuff than you should be able too. Just sucks the heat out.
Last edited:
Birthday parts are the best parts.
High steer arms are next on my list to order. Potentially this weekend. We'll see.
If it warms up at all I'll get into the shop and get the ball joints in and ready for steering.
High steer arms are next on my list to order. Potentially this weekend. We'll see.
If it warms up at all I'll get into the shop and get the ball joints in and ready for steering.
What did you go with for knuckles? I saw you were asking about which ones to get.
Miranda actually bought these for my birthday. I thought I was holding off for another few weeks.
They're from a company called Harsh Terrain out of the states, and they're cast steel. According to their card they are a cast chromoly, but I don't know if that's a thing, or a marketing term.
I do know they're way lighter than the others. I'm going to delay mounting them until I get my steering arm, since I have to get the drag link hole drilled to a different position than normal to match my pitman length.
They're from a company called Harsh Terrain out of the states, and they're cast steel. According to their card they are a cast chromoly, but I don't know if that's a thing, or a marketing term.
I do know they're way lighter than the others. I'm going to delay mounting them until I get my steering arm, since I have to get the drag link hole drilled to a different position than normal to match my pitman length.
Blender
Swiftie
Cast chromoly is a real thing. A local place will investment cast 4130. It's tough stuff.
Well that's good to know!
I'm debating going full on high steer or just running a single arm with a drag link and then the factory tie rod locations. Might have to install these and do some playing with cardboard tubes to see what I can and can't fit.
I'm debating going full on high steer or just running a single arm with a drag link and then the factory tie rod locations. Might have to install these and do some playing with cardboard tubes to see what I can and can't fit.
Said fuckit. On they went.
Press got a workout tonight. That thing is easily in my top 5 tools in the shop.
Shiny parts are shiny. Did end up re-using the studs. I pressed the first couple in for kicks and they took 3-4000 pounds on the gauge, so I wasn't overly worried. All of them went in with that much force, no fucked threads, and these are all ft-lb torque not TTY, so, fuckit. It's just a junkyard hackjob build by a know-it-all snowflake fucking retard anyway, right?
Might finish my beer and drop the diff gears in while I'm out here. See how ambitious I get.
Press got a workout tonight. That thing is easily in my top 5 tools in the shop.
Shiny parts are shiny. Did end up re-using the studs. I pressed the first couple in for kicks and they took 3-4000 pounds on the gauge, so I wasn't overly worried. All of them went in with that much force, no fucked threads, and these are all ft-lb torque not TTY, so, fuckit. It's just a junkyard hackjob build by a know-it-all snowflake fucking retard anyway, right?
Might finish my beer and drop the diff gears in while I'm out here. See how ambitious I get.
Sssshhhhhhit.
Not gonna lie, got a little back-yarder on er. Just took a few teeth off and called it good. I'm likely replacing this carrier with a locker anyway. I just want the gears in to get them off my bench, and see if a 1995 Isuzu rear 44 really is the same as a 1979 Wagoneer front 44 aside from the outer pinion bearing.
(So far, it really is)
Not gonna lie, got a little back-yarder on er. Just took a few teeth off and called it good. I'm likely replacing this carrier with a locker anyway. I just want the gears in to get them off my bench, and see if a 1995 Isuzu rear 44 really is the same as a 1979 Wagoneer front 44 aside from the outer pinion bearing.
(So far, it really is)
Last edited:
Also, as it turns out, the rear half of my factory 2pc driveshaft on the rodeo takes the same 1310 series u joints as the input on this waggy diff.
Which means I should be able to take that rear half shaft and use it up front, and can also upgrade it to 1350 or 1410 if need be.
Meeint.
Thinking I'll order an outer (inner?.. . The one close to the pinion head dammit) pinion bearing and maybe some other little 60 dollar item on monday. Maybe the 80 dollar steering arm. I don't know yet. Want to keep chugging along even though things are shit right now.
Which means I should be able to take that rear half shaft and use it up front, and can also upgrade it to 1350 or 1410 if need be.
Meeint.
Thinking I'll order an outer (inner?.. . The one close to the pinion head dammit) pinion bearing and maybe some other little 60 dollar item on monday. Maybe the 80 dollar steering arm. I don't know yet. Want to keep chugging along even though things are shit right now.
Slim what do those teeth mesh on to?
it's the ABS tone ring. It's milled into the carrier, but completely useless now.
The Isuzu 44 housing the gears came out of is clearanced for it.
Think the next thing I'll move to after this is steering and then brakes. Once those two are done, I have to buy a donor truck to go any further.
The Isuzu 44 housing the gears came out of is clearanced for it.
Think the next thing I'll move to after this is steering and then brakes. Once those two are done, I have to buy a donor truck to go any further.
Well shit. The plasma gun would have come out for that trim job. You did say you are changing it out so no need to get that involved into it.
I don't have a plasma.
I could have taken it to the bench grinder and that would have made quick work of it, but I didn't feel like having to clean all that shit out of the bearings then.
The slowing of the economy has seen a drop in pricing on certain things. An Eaton Detroit style locker for this is down to 600 CAD now, from about 850 previously.
A Trutrac is down to about 450.
Once they get down low enough I'll pull the trigger.
I could have taken it to the bench grinder and that would have made quick work of it, but I didn't feel like having to clean all that shit out of the bearings then.
The slowing of the economy has seen a drop in pricing on certain things. An Eaton Detroit style locker for this is down to 600 CAD now, from about 850 previously.
A Trutrac is down to about 450.
Once they get down low enough I'll pull the trigger.
I was abuut to order my front and rear bumpers locker and winch but like you said prices are going to come down and priorities will change depending on the end result of this current shit show.
I sure am glad that I sold the Zuk a few weeks ago. That money will come in handy either way it gets used.
I know. I'm sitting on my second civic and I put off buying the engine for it because who the fuck is looking to drop 4500 bucks on the car I'm selling right now?
Regardless, ordered my head-side pinion bearing today. That'll get here Wednesday, so I can mock up the front driveshaft. The revelation regarding u joint sizes was welcome, and now I realize that I have 3 or 4 capable driveshafts for the front sitting around, so for the sake of getting things moving I may cut one down myself to bolt up and test drive this thing when it's ready.
Balancing a shaft in town is worth all of 110 bucks, so that I'm not worried about.
The big hurdle for the test drive will be the thousand bucks of axle shafts it's going to need. Besides that, the list is quite manageable. I may simply run the rear shaft before dumping that huge sum of money into this to ensure it actually drive halfway decent
If it all goes pear shaped, even with everything but axleshafts into it, I'll be at less than 1000 bucks for this experiment.
Regardless, ordered my head-side pinion bearing today. That'll get here Wednesday, so I can mock up the front driveshaft. The revelation regarding u joint sizes was welcome, and now I realize that I have 3 or 4 capable driveshafts for the front sitting around, so for the sake of getting things moving I may cut one down myself to bolt up and test drive this thing when it's ready.
Balancing a shaft in town is worth all of 110 bucks, so that I'm not worried about.
The big hurdle for the test drive will be the thousand bucks of axle shafts it's going to need. Besides that, the list is quite manageable. I may simply run the rear shaft before dumping that huge sum of money into this to ensure it actually drive halfway decent
If it all goes pear shaped, even with everything but axleshafts into it, I'll be at less than 1000 bucks for this experiment.
Having an interesting issue with the upper balljoints. The D44 uses a threaded sleeve for camber adjustment in the upper balljoint slot.
Normally, your ball stays put when turning, and it turns inside the socket.
I have these things nutso tight right now, and the entire balljoint turns with threaded insert. I basically cant make it tight enough. I don't believe these things get any loctite on them, they have to remain adjustable.
I'll have to call my steering shop and ask tomorrow.
Regardless, put the caliper bracket a on after cleaning up the rotors. I think I'll be replacing these, but I want to see if the stock size of rotor is adequate or if I need to upgrade the brakes before buying anything. So for now they stay.
Stage 1 cleanup vs no cleanup. These things were ugly.
Stripped one spindle stud. Ordered 12 new ones and threw out the Ford torque spec since it turns out they ran 7/16 studs with a much higher spec. Ugh.
This was a good investment as well. For 12 bucks, I couldn't say no. My D60 socket came in handy many times.
And ready for calipers. I'm servicing the factory ones, as they weren't terribly seized. Gotta peel the seals out so they can sit in my clean-up mix for the night. Again, just don't want to buy new ones if I find I need to upgrade them.
Normally, your ball stays put when turning, and it turns inside the socket.
I have these things nutso tight right now, and the entire balljoint turns with threaded insert. I basically cant make it tight enough. I don't believe these things get any loctite on them, they have to remain adjustable.
I'll have to call my steering shop and ask tomorrow.
Regardless, put the caliper bracket a on after cleaning up the rotors. I think I'll be replacing these, but I want to see if the stock size of rotor is adequate or if I need to upgrade the brakes before buying anything. So for now they stay.
Stage 1 cleanup vs no cleanup. These things were ugly.
Stripped one spindle stud. Ordered 12 new ones and threw out the Ford torque spec since it turns out they ran 7/16 studs with a much higher spec. Ugh.
This was a good investment as well. For 12 bucks, I couldn't say no. My D60 socket came in handy many times.
And ready for calipers. I'm servicing the factory ones, as they weren't terribly seized. Gotta peel the seals out so they can sit in my clean-up mix for the night. Again, just don't want to buy new ones if I find I need to upgrade them.
Last edited: