1st gen diff options.

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Alright, well. My Tacoma did really really well in Moab and I’m considering putting off doing SAS stuff to I’d for a while. Now I have a few questions.

Is there an option for stuffing a bigger front diff in there? Even replacing the factory 7.5” with an 8” from an 05+ tacoma? What are my options here?
 

AssBurns

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Alright, well. My Tacoma did really really well in Moab and I’m considering putting off doing SAS stuff to I’d for a while. Now I have a few questions.

Is there an option for stuffing a bigger front diff in there? Even replacing the factory 7.5” with an 8” from an 05+ tacoma? What are my options here?
Brian over at Front Range Offroad did the 8" swap in his 3rd gen 4runner. That's the only actual swap I've seen done. I'm eventually planning on swapping the front diff out for something stronger. My idea is to use the AAM 9.25" diff out of the 3/4 and 1 ton GM trucks. That is if I can make it fit. @coloradolawlor put a custom made D44 in the front of his Chevy Colorado with GM 1 ton CV axles. It's been holding up to a supercharged LSX and 38" tires.
There was someone on t4r.org that was planning to put the Tundra 9" front axle in, but he never finished it. I think the AAM will be the cheapest and easiest option since they are cheap and easy to find, but packaging might be a big concern since it's over 2" bigger in diameter at the housing. I think the enigne can be lifted a little, and the oil pan can maybe be clearanced to make work. Then we'd have to shorten the ADD tube to match the widths of our IFS pivot points to keep the CV's happy. Fleece Performance makes ADD delete kits for these, and I bet they can make a modified shorter ADD shaft to match our needs. We can just make our own ADD tube.

Instead of using custom axles with stock outer joints, I was planning on making custom spindles using the 3/4 - 1 ton unit bearing hubs to accept stock GM CV axles with just a custom length shaft. I wanted to incorporate long travel into this mess for more tire clearance and more travel. If built right I bet it can handle 40's. Just gotta find a way to make them fit.
 
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There was someone on t4r.org that was planning to put the Tundra 9" front axle in, but he never finished it.

That was Coastal616 on t4r if anyone is wondering. There were a couple pictures of that diff post modification but that thread is from 2013 and the pics are gone. Biggest thing with that diff is he still had to get it narrowed (got it done at Big Country Customs somewhere in BC, might be able to call them and get some info) so its not really a better option than the AAM you referenced. linky
 

AssBurns

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That was Coastal616 on t4r if anyone is wondering. There were a couple pictures of that diff post modification but that thread is from 2013 and the pics are gone. Biggest thing with that diff is he still had to get it narrowed (got it done at Big Country Customs somewhere in BC, might be able to call them and get some info) so its not really a better option than the AAM you referenced. linky
So he actually finished the project? He never followed up on the thread for us to all see unfortunately. A tundra diff could be another great option too, but I think the highest gear ratio on those is 4.88. I'd like to go 5.38 with the AAM diff.
Or should I just go to run 37s on the 7.5 and see what happens.
Fuck it! Get some RCV's and run it till it breaks. That's what @theesotericone does (he's running 35" pitbulls which are like BFG 37's). RCV's are pretty awesome. We are just thinking the ADD stub shaft is the next weak link now.
 

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Fuck it! Get some RCV's and run it till it breaks. That's what @theesotericone does (he's running 35" pitbulls which are like BFG 37's). RCV's are pretty awesome. We are just thinking the ADD stub shaft is the next weak link now.

If the stub shaft is the next weak link I've already talked with RCV about it. They will be happy to make a 4340 stub shaft. So that base is covered if needed.

I've run quite a few trails since putting the RCV's in. Time will tell whether that stub shaft is up to it. We've seen a few guys, like Dirtco, that have broken the stub but for the amount of these diffs out there you would think you would see a whole lot more.
 

AssBurns

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If the stub shaft is the next weak link I've already talked with RCV about it. They will be happy to make a 4340 stub shaft. So that base is covered if needed.

I've run quite a few trails since putting the RCV's in. Time will tell whether that stub shaft is up to it. We've seen a few guys, like Dirtco, that have broken the stub but for the amount of these diffs out there you would think you would see a whole lot more.
Yeah I'm actually really surprised that your's is still intact. I keep telling myself that I should wait for RCV's but I might just blow my load and get some this summer. I can send them back when I get LT and get extended axles. I have too many ideas in my head and can't make up my mind on how I should "invest" my money properly. Summer months it's crawling and winter months it's go-fast stuff.
 
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So he actually finished the project? He never followed up on the thread for us to all see unfortunately. A tundra diff could be another great option too, but I think the highest gear ratio on those is 4.88. I'd like to go 5.38 with the AAM diff.

I could have sworn the answer was yes but I can’t find any backup on that. I thought somebody down the road brought it back up and he said he finished it. I’ll keep looking. Gear ratio does limit application I suppose. I like my 5.29s

Or should I just go to run 37s on the 7.5 and see what happens.

Also yes. I run 37x12.5 wildpeak MTs with lotus axles and they’ve lasted quite a bit. They’re Jeremiah’s old ones too (dirtco)
 

AssBurns

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I could have sworn the answer was yes but I can’t find any backup on that. I thought somebody down the road brought it back up and he said he finished it. I’ll keep looking. Gear ratio does limit application I suppose. I like my 5.29s
I'd love to find more info on it. Such a great idea that never went anywhere (that we can document).

Yeah no way I'd want anything less than 5.29's unless I had a LOT more power. Maybe if I ever get around to actually doing an LS swap I'd be okay with 4.88's.


Also yes. I run 37x12.5 wildpeak MTs with lotus axles and they’ve lasted quite a bit. They’re Jeremiah’s old ones too (dirtco)
Have you ever had any issues with the stub shaft? I think Dirtco was the only one I've seen with an actually broken stub shaft. @Theblackflag twisted the splines on his, but it never sheared.
 
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I'd love to find more info on it. Such a great idea that never went anywhere (that we can document).
Yeah no way I'd want anything less than 5.29's unless I had a LOT more power. Maybe if I ever get around to actually doing an LS swap I'd be okay with 4.88's.
Have you ever had any issues with the stub shaft? I think Dirtco was the only one I've seen with an actually broken stub shaft. @Theblackflag twisted the splines on his, but it never sheared.

You and me both on that LS swap. I just moved to a non-emissions county too.

No stub shaft issues yet (fingers crossed). Although my wheeling has been rather limited since the 37s though. One Moab trip with metal masher, poison spider, and some others. And a handful of easyish Colorado trails. I guess I can throw a fair bit of snow wheeling in there. I know that’s when Jeremiah grenaded his lotus axle the first time.
 
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Also yes. I run 37x12.5 wildpeak MTs with lotus axles and they’ve lasted quite a bit. They’re Jeremiah’s old ones too (dirtco)

You’ve got my attention. What sort of trouble have 37s given you up front?
 
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You’ve got my attention. What sort of trouble have 37s given you up front?

Pretty much nothing directly related to the tire size. Skipped/chipped off a tooth on my steering racking bashing up way too big ledge on metal masher. Had a wheel bearing get real sloppy (also 190k on the truck so take that with a grain of salt) but I attribute that more to my wheel spacers. I bought 4.5 BS wheels so the back end would tuck within the body, so I had to get 1.25" spacers up front to even think about having a turning radius, and I still rub the frame. And my speedometer is laughably off. But as far as real carnage goes, no broken CVs, no busted diff (ARB front), no ADD tube issues.

First time 37s felt small, even with all the approach angle I've tried to give this thing I scraped going up and down.
Untitled by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr
 
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Pretty much nothing directly related to the tire size. Skipped/chipped off a tooth on my steering racking bashing up way too big ledge on metal masher. Had a wheel bearing get real sloppy (also 190k on the truck so take that with a grain of salt) but I attribute that more to my wheel spacers. I bought 4.5 BS wheels so the back end would tuck within the body, so I had to get 1.25" spacers up front to even think about having a turning radius, and I still rub the frame. And my speedometer is laughably off. But as far as real carnage goes, no broken CVs, no busted diff (ARB front), no ADD tube issues.

First time 37s felt small, even with all the approach angle I've tried to give this thing I scraped going up and down.
Untitled by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr
Ohhhhh. Jeesussssss. More pics.


I have zero lift though.
 
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Ohhhhh. Jeesussssss. More pics.


I have zero lift though.

27147607848_a494fce486_o by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr

40976687642_9a607e6f02_o by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr

40976681332_b26ca72100_o by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr

In hindsight I probably could have made it with some realignment, with this line I was all over the belly skid, gas tank skid, and lower links. But when I backed off and dropped the front end down to terra firma I was no longer able to turn left so I didnt push it too much after that as I still had the rest of Metal Masher and another day of wheeling to do.

So the thing with tubbing is I could technically drive around on bumpstops in the front (and the 1" BL). With how much I cut nothing rubs besides my limited style flares at certain steering angles & full bump, but I refuse to give those up. And I would lose some steering angle as I still haven't notched my frame. The rear is pretty solid at all levels but I do still rub at full bump inside the fender area, filler cap, etc. But I also cut nothing in the rear.

I dunno, I doubt 37s and no lift/BL has been done before (I've seen 35s I think) but in the end, if you're tubbing the front you make sure it works at full bump so no issues there, and you clearly have the fab skills to rework the bed. After tubbing with the BL I think its possible to do it without, more cutting in the firewall area is whatever, easy cuts easy welds. Where I think it would get difficult is the top of the inner fenders where the batter, airbox, fusebox, etc is all mounted. I got away with just hammering problem areas and smoothing them out, but I think you would need to fully cut them.

If you haven't read this one check it out. 37s with 3" lift no BL on a 99 Taco Slodgetto's Green Dragon .
 
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27147607848_a494fce486_o by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr

40976687642_9a607e6f02_o by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr

40976681332_b26ca72100_o by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr

In hindsight I probably could have made it with some realignment, with this line I was all over the belly skid, gas tank skid, and lower links. But when I backed off and dropped the front end down to terra firma I was no longer able to turn left so I didnt push it too much after that as I still had the rest of Metal Masher and another day of wheeling to do.

So the thing with tubbing is I could technically drive around on bumpstops in the front (and the 1" BL). With how much I cut nothing rubs besides my limited style flares at certain steering angles & full bump, but I refuse to give those up. And I would lose some steering angle as I still haven't notched my frame. The rear is pretty solid at all levels but I do still rub at full bump inside the fender area, filler cap, etc. But I also cut nothing in the rear.

I dunno, I doubt 37s and no lift/BL has been done before (I've seen 35s I think) but in the end, if you're tubbing the front you make sure it works at full bump so no issues there, and you clearly have the fab skills to rework the bed. After tubbing with the BL I think its possible to do it without, more cutting in the firewall area is whatever, easy cuts easy welds. Where I think it would get difficult is the top of the inner fenders where the batter, airbox, fusebox, etc is all mounted. I got away with just hammering problem areas and smoothing them out, but I think you would need to fully cut them.

If you haven't read this one check it out. 37s with 3" lift no BL on a 99 Taco Slodgetto's Green Dragon .
I’m already tubbed and clear 37s. But have 35s on

37s look perfect in there!
 

4runner DOA

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Well fuck me right? Write a long ass response like this is T4R or TW. Gotta remember people aren't so dumb here...

What are you waiting for then! :popcorn2:

:rofl:

It helps people who are looking to do it. We're hoping this forum can teach newbies as much as help experienced players. Gives guys something to look forward over the standard "you can't do that, you need a 2" body lift and 3" suspension lift" response.
 
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:rofl:

It helps people who are looking to do it. We're hoping this forum can teach newbies as much as help experienced players. Gives guys something to look forward over the standard "you can't do that, you need a 2" body lift and 3" suspension lift" response.

I suppose thats true. In forum less cluttered with junk you can actually find these threads. I really did feel dumb though, especially after remembering @Rapier46 had 37s on his 2nd gen....
 

AssBurns

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As much as we like bigger tires. :ontopic: We can easily take this to a new thread since we like talking about it and seeing how it’s done.
 
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