So I've been playing with the new calculator and had a few things accrue to me, If I am understanding this info correctly, if one uses or used the 3.0 version then when they drive to the trail all their numbers are kosher (assuming they drive to said in rear 2wd) but as soon has 4wd is engaged anti-squat numbers (and whatever else) are cut by 40% because of "Front Drive Bias", so when driving on the trail ones numbers are lower then thought unless the new 4.0 version is used and set with the .40 Front Drive Bias set? The length of links can be different upper to lower but based on triangulation degrees the system can see them as the same as it pertains to pinion angle, Example: so say a triangulated 42" uppers and 47" lowers seen from the side 2D angle could change pinion the same as a system with both upper and lower parallel 42" links.
I am sure most of this type of info is rudimentary to many but as I haven't gotten my hands on the books you guys recommended yet.
Thank u.
Curious what u all respond to the 4-link questions I was asking about the 4.0 calculators "front wheel bias" vs the 3.0 version lack of this and how said applies to setting up link mount heights. The anti-squat # r vastly different when the add 4wd vs 2wd (the 3.0 numbers seem to be based on only 2 wheels applying force???), that is if i'm understanding it correctly...
Just noticed this comment, and went back to this thread to look for your post over here.
Yeah 4wd will totally change how much you feel the anti-squat because now you don't have 100% torque applied to the rear suspension. However, in my opinion you have to take this with a grain of salt. 1st these anti-squat values are still nothing more than a guess based on where your center of gravity sits. Unless you have scales and can weigh each corner, you (like most of us as well) are not getting entirely accurate numbers for anti-squat. 2nd these numbers assume you have full traction. It's very common to be in 4wd and the front has little traction and the rear is doing all the work (or vice versa).
So my thoughts are get your 2wd numbers where you think it would be best (or within the range you are comfortable) and if the 4wd numbers are still decent, then run it.
I could be totally off on this whole thing, but those are my thoughts on it.
