ADD Delete?

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
Fredo Baggins
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Hahaha I can’t imagine they are actually coming from different manufacturers

Yes, they are. The Napa's are a new unit not a reman. It's there max life brand. The cups are thicker walled and the shaft is thicker. I never measured the bearing size. I'm not saying you won't break Napa because you will. I'm just letting you know you will break far fewer Napas then Oreillys.
 

eimkeith

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I gotcha. Interesting that the units are actually thicker. I am using brand new ones from Oriellys right now, not their remans, but I’ll look at Napa’s next.

You should get a quote from RCV! (I’m curious)
 

Alex Fleming

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My Napa CV's have held up great. On the ADD note, I know some people will hose clamp the fork to the locked position which isnt the best solution but it will give you one less thing that can break. I personally have never had an issue with the stub shaft but who knows what Ill find when I tear into my diff.

I blew my diff before I ever broke a CV axle too. Seems like the spider gears will always be the weak link.
 

4runner DOA

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My Napa CV's have held up great. On the ADD note, I know some people will hose clamp the fork to the locked position which isnt the best solution but it will give you one less thing that can break. I personally have never had an issue with the stub shaft but who knows what Ill find when I tear into my diff.

I blew my diff before I ever broke a CV axle too. Seems like the spider gears will always be the weak link.

I've wheeled twice now using my front locker on AutoZone CVs, no problems, including once not having a rear locker and relying on the front completely. Probably have problems now that I've said something so I'm likely gonna throw my OEM axles in now. I've got one torn boots, so I'll get that one replaced under warranty and use them as spares.
 

AssBurns

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So I (well not I, but @eimkeith) scored me a Non-ADD tube and it is on it's way to me in the mail. Now I think I'll send it to RCV for them to make a new part out of something stronger for me. I'm assuming it's already stronger than the ADD Tube, but I think it'll be better to just have it made into something 4340 or 300M. Especially if I make the jump to 37's next.
 

eimkeith

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So I (well not I, but @eimkeith) scored me a Non-ADD tube and it is on it's way to me in the mail. Now I think I'll send it to RCV for them to make a new part out of something stronger for me. I'm assuming it's already stronger than the ADD Tube, but I think it'll be better to just have it made into something 4340 or 300M. Especially if I make the jump to 37's next.

I'm curious as to if we could get stubs made to mate to 930 CVs on either end - then the stubs could be upgraded to a better material...
930s are easy to change, plentiful, would make sense to be the weak point.
 
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AssBurns

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I'm curious as to if we could get stubs made to mate to 930 CVs on either end - then the locking hub stub could be upgraded to a better material...
930s are easy to change, plentiful, would make sense to be the weak point.
The only counter I have to that is the RCV CV axles are rated and warrantied up to 40" tires. They are direct fit which makes it super easy and adds the ability to sell the CV axles down the line. Let pieces to deal with. Sure 930 or 934 will be easy to rebuild but are they really necessary when I'm sure RCV is using one of those sizes in their OEM replacements anyways.
 

eimkeith

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The only counter I have to that is the RCV CV axles are rated and warrantied up to 40" tires. They are direct fit which makes it super easy and adds the ability to sell the CV axles down the line. Let pieces to deal with. Sure 930 or 934 will be easy to rebuild but are they really necessary when I'm sure RCV is using one of those sizes in their OEM replacements anyways.

The RCV stuff is expensive. 930 CVs aren't really. :shrug:
 

AssBurns

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The RCV stuff is expensive. 930 CVs aren't really. :shrug:
But will 930 CV's hold up to a 6000lb truck with 37's and the whopping HP and Torque of our V6's? I'm thinking 934 CV's are needed even with race prepped and 4340/300M parts. Those aren't cheap. Sure they may be cheaper than complete RCV's but are they worth the extra effort of piecing it together?
 

eimkeith

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But will 930 CV's hold up to a 6000lb truck with 37's and the whopping HP and Torque of our V6's? I'm thinking 934 CV's are needed even with race prepped and 4340/300M parts. Those aren't cheap. Sure they may be cheaper than complete RCV's but are they worth the extra effort of piecing it together?

I dunno, they're pretty damn stout on 930s. I bet they'd be fine for abuse, but would yield before the ring gear does (which is what you'd want, right?)

The size of 934s may be an issue on either end, packaging-wise (plus cost)

Also, I'm pretty sure the 930 CV has a greater range of travel (and without sacrificing strength) than what we have to work with? Who wouldn't like more usable droop/steering?
 
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AssBurns

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I dunno, they're pretty damn stout on 930s. I bet they'd be fine for abuse, but would yield before the ring gear does (which is what you'd want, right?)
True. I'm sure if you talked to RCV, they could make some stub shafts for our application. Just gotta see if the cost of making the stub shafts for a 930 or 934 CV are worth it.

This guy made his own flanges to fit the 930 CV, but he built a prerunner that doesn't see the load forces that we put ours through when playing in the rocks. I love his idea with the custom spindles though. You can use whatever hub and CV you want.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150683566@N07/sets/72157678696834236/
 

AssBurns

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On the subject. Check this out. Using 930 joints and Ford 8.8 HP IFS diff, but he also has portals which are a 2.something:1 gear reduction, so that helps with strength. I still don't know if 930's are quite strong enough. Borderline I feel like. They will probably be fine to keep as a weak link like you said. Makes me reconsider just going with OEM replacement RCV's.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gen...-jv-asssassin-ifs-chassis-2.html#post14816021
 

eimkeith

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On the subject. Check this out. Using 930 joints and Ford 8.8 HP IFS diff, but he also has portals which are a 2.something:1 gear reduction, so that helps with strength. I still don't know if 930's are quite strong enough. Borderline I feel like. They will probably be fine to keep as a weak link like you said. Makes me reconsider just going with OEM replacement RCV's.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gen...-jv-asssassin-ifs-chassis-2.html#post14816021

Ah - so RCV is already on the 930 game. I like it. I'd seriously do (high quality) stubs on either end, and then do custom shafts with 930s. (shafts are cheapish)
 

AssBurns

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Ah - so RCV is already on the 930 game. I like it. I'd seriously do (high quality) stubs on either end, and then do custom shafts with 930s. (shafts are cheapish)
I'm gonna have to think on this some more. Just use stock 30 spline hubs and 27 spline inners with 930 stubs inboard and outboard?
 

eimkeith

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I'm gonna have to think on this some more. Just use stock 30 spline hubs and 27 spline inners with 930 stubs inboard and outboard?


I'm also just thinking here. I came at this trying to figure out how to make manual hubs work better. Custom stubs on that end are wasted on stock CVs, I guess, so I went to 930s since that's my world. Then it started to make sense in general. Worth thinking about.
 
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just find a diff out of a non add truck. my 1st gen I had add deleted with the front locked for years. napa cvs held up fine.... I did the swap in about 3 hours
 
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you could run a non ADD dif, get rcv to make the stub axle, and cvs. use add hubs still so you just get standard rcv cv's... its simple. haven't read all of the thread because its 2 pages and i don't really do Toyota stuff anymore
 
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I had manual hubs, never once did i have a hub problem... and I broke cvs, hubs held up fine. for what its worth
 
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