ADD Delete?

[AssBurns]

just find a diff out of a non add truck. my 1st gen I had add deleted with the front locked for years. napa cvs held up fine.... I did the swap in about 3 hours

Already got the part I need. I don't want a whole diff necessarily since mine is already geared and locked.

you could run a non ADD dif, get rcv to make the stub axle, and cvs. use add hubs still so you just get standard rcv cv's... its simple. haven't read all of the thread because its 2 pages and i don't really do Toyota stuff anymore

That's exactly what I am planning to do. @eimkeith and I were just discussing going with other options for the sake of discussion. 930 CV's would be nice since they are easy to source and rebuildable, but I'm not sure I want to get THAT custom with this. RCV already makes a great product with high angle joints. Can't really beat that.

I had manual hubs, never once did i have a hub problem... and I broke cvs, hubs held up fine. for what its worth

I'm sure manual hubs with RCV's are fine but I've heard of multiple people that have broken the stub shaft inside the hubs. The manual hub shafts are only 27 spline whereas the ADD hubs are 30 spline. I have no real need for manual hubs anyway. I'll stick with ADD hubs.

 

[Jaysen4runner]

Not sure why so ma y guys hate the locking hubs. Remember the ifs cvs breaks inside the diff, not the outer 27spline. Old Toyota SA came with 27, longfeild made 27 spline shaft never had a problem. I think for those that dont know just over thinking the situation. I never had a issue with my hubs!

 

[AssBurns]

Not sure why so ma y guys hate the locking hubs. Remember the ifs cvs breaks inside the diff, not the outer 27spline. Old Toyota SA came with 27, longfeild made 27 spline shaft never had a problem. I think for those that dont know just over thinking the situation. I never had a issue with my hubs!

People break both. @rkntoy has broken both inside the 27 spline hub and in the diff. If I remember correctly the inners are 27 spline, which is the same as the manual hub outers. ADD hub outers are 30 spline. Even with strength not being a concern, I don't see manual hubs as a benefit in my situation. Just seems like another point of potential failure with not enough benefits to outweight the negatives. Sure most guys don't have issues with them, but I don't want to be the guys that does. My plan is RCV axles, so either way the shafts will be plenty strong, but with RCV's, non-add shaft (potentially made stronger by RCV), and ADD HUB's, I will have no weak points besides the front R&P which will suck to blow out, but with safe driving (no wheel hop), I shouldn't have to worry much about the R&P breaking. I'd rather just eliminate potential failures as much as possible.

 

[AssBurns]

Not sure why so ma y guys hate the locking hubs. Remember the ifs cvs breaks inside the diff, not the outer 27spline. Old Toyota SA came with 27, longfeild made 27 spline shaft never had a problem. I think for those that dont know just over thinking the situation. I never had a issue with my hubs!

BTW, I'm assuming you were the one I got this from. Thanks

 

[Blender]

BTW, I'm assuming you were the one I got this from. Thanks

View attachment 9185

the symmetry is impressive

 

[AssBurns]

the symmetry is impressive

Agreed

 

[Jaysen4runner]

BTW, I'm assuming you were the one I got this from. Thanks

View attachment 9185

Hahaha yea it was me

‍‍

 

[AssBurns]

Hahaha yea it was me

‍‍

Haha That was great. I was not expecting that at all. I showed my wife and she asked who sent that to me, and I told her "I have no idea and have never talked to this guy in my life." She thought I was pretty weird for getting dicks sent to me in packages from random dudes.

 

[Jaysen4runner]

Haha That was great. I was not expecting that at all. I showed my wife and she asked who sent that to me, and I told her "I have no idea and have never talked to this guy in my life." She thought I was pretty weird for getting dicks sent to me in packages from random dudes.

Keith was like do something stupid. Also we had all these dick cardboard cutout at works. So I was like f it send it! I dont blame you, but I was given the ok to do it!

 

[eimkeith]

Haha That was great. I was not expecting that at all. I showed my wife and she asked who sent that to me, and I told her "I have no idea and have never talked to this guy in my life." She thought I was pretty weird for getting dicks sent to me in packages from random dudes.

pfft. she's used to it.

 

[Pato]

A week ago i was in the dunes and after climbing a step one i heard a nasty crack upon getting up and i saw my CV boot extended out, i drive all the way home with no issues but today after visiting my mechanic and after believing that the failure was a CV axle we found out that what actually broke was the output shaft on the front diff assembly (non-ADD diff), i can't find out why that piece broke instead of a CV axle but it happened.

 

[Slim-Whitey]

Here's a question that I didn't see on the first page.

Have you considered the extra wear on the front shaft from spinning constantly?

On the CAD Dodge trucks, the front shaft uses smaller u joints and a lighter duty shaft than on the non-CAD trucks.

Something to maybe consider? I dunno.

 

[AssBurns]

A week ago i was in the dunes and after climbing a step one i heard a nasty crack upon getting up and i saw my CV boot extended out, i drive all the way home with no issues but today after visiting my mechanic and after believing that the failure was a CV axle we found out that what actually broke was the output shaft on the front diff assembly (non-ADD diff), i can't find out why that piece broke instead of a CV axle but it happened.

Wow that really fucking sucks. That’s exactly what I’m worried about when I go to RCV’s. I’ll be sending my non-ADD shaft to RCV to have them make one. (If it’s cost effective). I bet if we get a group to buy them, then we can get a discount.

 

[cynicalrider]

Whats up, new here based on @HolyHandGrenade 's recommendations. I've been wanting to do this mod for a while sans the 930 stuff.

I've blown my spiders before, then regeared with the ARB front, and then have blown a CV and a stub shaft rock crawling.

IMG_1177 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_1943 by Michael Halat, on Flickr

SoI always wanted to do this for 2 reasons, eliminate potential deflection the stub shaft might have under bouncy situations, and the ability to straight swap this entire tube on the trail.

BUT my question to you all is, if you do this with the RCV cv's, won't you be making the fuse the diff?

I would be down to run a heavy duty manual tube and still keep my fuse the CV's.

I have slowly been turning these parts into trophies.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

[AssBurns]

Whats up, new here based on @HolyHandGrenade 's recommendations. I've been wanting to do this mod for a while sans the 930 stuff.

I've blown my spiders before, then regeared with the ARB front, and then have blown a CV and a stub shaft rock crawling.

IMG_1177 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_1943 by Michael Halat, on Flickr

SoI always wanted to do this for 2 reasons, eliminate potential deflection the stub shaft might have under bouncy situations, and the ability to straight swap this entire tube on the trail.

BUT my question to you all is, if you do this with the RCV cv's, won't you be making the fuse the diff?

I would be down to run a heavy duty manual tube and still keep my fuse the CV's.

I have slowly been turning these parts into trophies.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Well for me, I am tired of blowing CV's. Most of my CV's break from torque, not neccessarily shock loads or binding. The outer cage just can't keep up to any torque loading. Now if we replace the CV's with RCV's, it puts the fuse at the ADD stub shaft or Non-ADD intermediate shaft, which can still break under torque loads (not just shock loads). I'd like to see if RCV can make a 300M intermediate shaft.
Now when it comes to the front diff, assuming its been upgraded to ARB or something similar to replace the super weak spider gears. A VERY high majority of diffs break from either shock loading or improper install. So my theory of being careful to avoid wheel spin and eventually doing dual cases to further avoid any shock loading on the diff will result in minimal risk to blowing out the R&P even with 37's and tough rock crawling. At least that's what I am hoping for. I've seen guys with D30's with Chromoly shafts and 37's do some pretty impressive stuff without breaking the R&P, and their front diffs are actually smaller than the 7.5" IFS diff we have at 7.12" Not saying it's the best option, but I do think it's totally doable.

 

[theesotericone]

Whats up, new here based on @HolyHandGrenade 's recommendations. I've been wanting to do this mod for a while sans the 930 stuff.

I've blown my spiders before, then regeared with the ARB front, and then have blown a CV and a stub shaft rock crawling.

IMG_1177 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_1943 by Michael Halat, on Flickr

SoI always wanted to do this for 2 reasons, eliminate potential deflection the stub shaft might have under bouncy situations, and the ability to straight swap this entire tube on the trail.

BUT my question to you all is, if you do this with the RCV cv's, won't you be making the fuse the diff?

I would be down to run a heavy duty manual tube and still keep my fuse the CV's.

I have slowly been turning these parts into trophies.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I'm keeping my ADD but I also run RCV CVs. I've run them for almost a year. They have many miles of hard trails under their belt. I've yet to break my stub shaft.

My rig is dual case dual locked. I hardly ever shock load anything. It produces a ton of torque. The CVs can handle it. So far the sub shaft has as well. After the Dusy I plan on pulling the diff and looking at the stub shaft. If it's not spun or fretted I'll keep running it. If it is I plan on having RCV make a stronger stub shaft. I'm not worried about my gear set in the least. They way I wheel it should be plenty strong enough.

@AssBurns Speaking of the Dusy. Could you please remember to bring your spare stub shaft please. lol

 

[AssBurns]

I'm keeping my ADD but I also run RCV CVs. I've run them for almost a year. They have many miles of hard trails under their belt. I've yet to break my stub shaft.

My rig is dual case dual locked. I hardly ever shock load anything. It produces a ton of torque. The CVs can handle it. So far the sub shaft has as well. After the Dusy I plan on pulling the diff and looking at the stub shaft. If it's not spun or fretted I'll keep running it. If it is I plan on having RCV make a stronger stub shaft. I'm not worried about my gear set in the least. They way I wheel it should be plenty strong enough.

@AssBurns Speaking of the Dusy. Could you please remember to bring your spare stub shaft please. lol

If it's messed up, just get a non-ADD intermediate shaft and we can both send them in to RCV to have machined. The biggest problems with the ADD stub shaft is there are little roller bearings inside the stub shaft that might make things more expensive than its worth to manufacture in small runs. Also it only eliminates the diff end of the ADD system from breaking. There is still the locking collar (doubt that would break, but you never know), and the 2nd intermediate shaft. I don't want to have to keep upgrading multiple components when I can just have RCV make a single piece shaft that is VERY unlikely to ever fail.

I think I put the stub shaft in my truck toolbox already. I'll check again when I get home.

 

[cynicalrider]

I'm keeping my ADD but I also run RCV CVs. I've run them for almost a year. They have many miles of hard trails under their belt. I've yet to break my stub shaft.

My rig is dual case dual locked. I hardly ever shock load anything. It produces a ton of torque. The CVs can handle it. So far the sub shaft has as well. After the Dusy I plan on pulling the diff and looking at the stub shaft. If it's not spun or fretted I'll keep running it. If it is I plan on having RCV make a stronger stub shaft. I'm not worried about my gear set in the least. They way I wheel it should be plenty strong enough.

@AssBurns Speaking of the Dusy. Could you please remember to bring your spare stub shaft please. lol

Yeah I mean I was definitely shock loading when the stub snapped.

Need me a crawl box for sure. If the diff is as strong as you guys say it is, maybe it's worth getting RCV's. They are stupid pricey right? I have 2 OEM spares in the garage. Crawl box is the next big drivetrain upgrade.

 

[AssBurns]

Yeah I mean I was definitely shock loading when the stub snapped.

Need me a crawl box for sure. If the diff is as strong as you guys say it is, maybe it's worth getting RCV's. They are stupid pricey right? I have 2 OEM spares in the garage. Crawl box is the next big drivetrain upgrade.

I'm in no way saying our front diff is strong, but I'm just saying that diffs rarely brake from just torque (unless its a LOT of torque, which our motors don't have even with dual cases). If you are careful and avoid shock loading, then things can actually hold up quite well. CV's on the other hand break even under mild torque loads. I've broken a couple CV's even with the CV's mostly straight and no shock loading. They break super easy when at angles.

So yes, RCV's are definitely worth it if you drive correctly. If you drive like an idiot, then the fuse will become the ADD system or R&P. RCV's cost close to $2k.

 

[cynicalrider]

I'm in no way saying our front diff is strong, but I'm just saying that diffs rarely brake from just torque (unless its a LOT of torque, which our motors don't have even with dual cases). If you are careful and avoid shock loading, then things can actually hold up quite well. CV's on the other hand break even under mild torque loads. I've broken a couple CV's even with the CV's mostly straight and no shock loading. They break super easy when at angles.

So yes, RCV's are definitely worth it if you drive correctly. If you drive like an idiot, then the fuse will become the ADD system or R&P. RCV's cost close to $2k.

Yeah I avoid shock loading if I can at all costs. That particular climb has been on my goal list for years so I was going to fight for it. Definitely need a crawl box next. Makes sense. I think you are definitely working towards a bullet proof front end setup.