Alignment Cam Eliminator Kit

AssBurns

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Stupid question, but I assume this is for Tacomas? I’d love a set for my wife’s Tundra to allow me to lock the lower into the full forward position and stop fucking with it after beating it out of position every hard trip. We already have the TC cam tabs in place. And adjustable heimed uppers.
I’d check the overall width of your cams to see if they are the same as ours. About 53mm or 2-1/8” is what ours are. Also double check what size bolt you need. Ours are 19mm or 3/4”.

If yours are different, I’m sure @Elujeggah can make a set to work.
 

KevinK

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I’d check the overall width of your cams to see if they are the same as ours. About 53mm or 2-1/8” is what ours are. Also double check what size bolt you need. Ours are 19mm or 3/4”.

If yours are different, I’m sure @Elujeggah can make a set to work.
Perfect. I’ll measure the tab gap tomorrow. I may have to lookup the bolt size. I’m also about to swap the blown rubber bushings for some poly ones for the 200 series Land Cruiser. Timing would be perfect if these work. Is the eccentric maxed out or more neutral? I saw some conversation above, but not sure where it landed, if at all.
 

4runner DOA

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Stupid question, but I assume this is for Tacomas? I’d love a set for my wife’s Tundra to allow me to lock the lower into the full forward position and stop fucking with it after beating it out of position every hard trip. We already have the TC cam tabs in place. And adjustable heimed uppers.

I just marked my cams with a paint pen after my last good alignment (that I did in the driveway) then set them back to that if I knock them off. Toe shouldn't really move unless you bend a tie rod or your inners are done.
 

AssBurns

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Perfect. I’ll measure the tab gap tomorrow. I may have to lookup the bolt size. I’m also about to swap the blown rubber bushings for some poly ones for the 200 series Land Cruiser. Timing would be perfect if these work. Is the eccentric maxed out or more neutral? I saw some conversation above, but not sure where it landed, if at all.
Make sure you measure the outside diameter of the sleeve, rather than the bolt, since this setup ditches the sleeves.

I’d the exact measurements, but the cam has 3 different settings. 1 neutral, and 1 each direction. That way you can use the front and rear settings to dial in your caster.
 

KevinK

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Make sure you measure the outside diameter of the sleeve, rather than the bolt, since this setup ditches the sleeves.

I’d the exact measurements, but the cam has 3 different settings. 1 neutral, and 1 each direction. That way you can use the front and rear settings to dial in your caster.
I wonder if the Tacoma and Tundra bushings are different? Here’s the bushings I plan to get and assumed they’d work with these plates as long as I got the right size bolt to pass through them. They’re sleeved inside and out. There’s a front and a rear set.

16C02F88-B644-49F4-B54B-F86B7A9E5328.png81ACB494-ACEE-41D4-B35F-BD2AB880D77F.png

I want to shove the lower as far forward as possible and then align with the uppers to get camber and caster right.
 

AssBurns

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I wonder if the Tacoma and Tundra bushings are different? Here’s the bushings I plan to get and assumed they’d work with these plates as long as I got the right size bolt to pass through them. They’re sleeved inside and out. There’s a front and a rear set.

View attachment 1876View attachment 1877

I want to shove the lower as far forward as possible and then align with the uppers to get camber and caster right.
I'd assume that the parts are the same, but only you can verify that by measuring the cam diameter, and the came sleeve OD. Our stock bolt is 14mm, but the sleeve is 19mm, so we can use 3/4" bolts (I'm sure grade 5 bolts will be fine if you can find some fine thread grade 5 3/4 bolts.)
 

KevinK

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I'd assume that the parts are the same, but only you can verify that by measuring the cam diameter, and the came sleeve OD. Our stock bolt is 14mm, but the sleeve is 19mm, so we can use 3/4" bolts (I'm sure grade 5 bolts will be fine if you can find some fine thread grade 5 3/4 bolts.)
Oh fuck, I'm retarded...
:deadbanana:
One of the bushings does use a sleeve. I was only looking at the rear bush and it doesn't use a sleeve, but the front does.
 

AssBurns

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Oh fuck, I'm retarded...
:deadbanana:
One of the bushings does use a sleeve. I was only looking at the rear bush and it doesn't use a sleeve, but the front does.
What?! The front and rear bushings are different? Only the front does?? How weird!
 

KevinK

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What?! The front and rear bushings are different? Only the front does?? How weird!
Yuuuuup....

Rear on the left, front on the right.

77f0f4bf-3e96-42d7-a1a2-2d862876d080-jpg.191056
 

theesotericone

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STOKED! :banana:
PayPal payment sent :beerscheers:

Steven, did you ever get these installed? I'm thinking of doing something similar. I'm over my alignment moving so my idea is to cut out the alignment cam tabs and weld a plate directly to the crossmember. I'd take it in for an alignment with the plates. Get it aligned then tack weld them. Then fully weld it. What am I missing here? Why use the factory or aftermarket cam plate at all? Why not just weld it directly to the crossmember?
 

4runner DOA

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Steven, did you ever get these installed? I'm thinking of doing something similar. I'm over my alignment moving so my idea is to cut out the alignment cam tabs and weld a plate directly to the crossmember. I'd take it in for an alignment with the plates. Get it aligned then tack weld them. Then fully weld it. What am I missing here? Why use the factory or aftermarket cam plate at all? Why not just weld it directly to the crossmember?

You still need the cam tabs. The LCA bolt mount hole is oblong so the bolt can move back and forth to set camber and caster. Without the cam tabs your arm would move before you could weld anything in place without the tabs there. Or am I not understanding what you're saying? It's too early for me to think.
 

4runner DOA

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Just get it aligned and tack weld the cam to the tabs. Or weld it solid to the tabs. Way less thinking.
 

AssBurns

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Steven, did you ever get these installed? I'm thinking of doing something similar. I'm over my alignment moving so my idea is to cut out the alignment cam tabs and weld a plate directly to the crossmember. I'd take it in for an alignment with the plates. Get it aligned then tack weld them. Then fully weld it. What am I missing here? Why use the factory or aftermarket cam plate at all? Why not just weld it directly to the crossmember?
Because the cams can break off the inner sleeve and cause all sorts or issues. The eliminator plates use a grade 8 3/4” bolt. Way more simple and makes it easy to install. They don’t move either. I got them installed, and they are worth it.
 

theesotericone

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Because the cams can break off the inner sleeve and cause all sorts or issues. The eliminator plates use a grade 8 3/4” bolt. Way more simple and makes it easy to install. They don’t move either. I got them installed, and they are worth it.

I guess I didn't make the question clear. I will be using new 3/4 bolts not the cam bolts. So my idea is to cut out the old alignment cams and plate they attach to. Put 5/16th square plates in there place. Get it aligned buy moving the inner and outer LCA by hand. Tighten the bolts. Tack weld the plates to the crossmember. Take it for a quick test drive and if it's good fully weld those plates to the crossmember. That way there is no way of pushing an alignment tab over. It's all fully welded and non-adjustable.
 
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