AssBurns BeerRunner Build Thread

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Do some research and consider setting up your own gears if you weren't planning on it already. Its super easy!
Debating on doing that, but a buddy already told me he would do that part for me, so might just drop it off with him and let him do it this time. Gears are definitely something I'd like to learn though. It doesn't seems too hard, especially on the Ford 9".
 

AssBurns

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I think I found out why it wasn’t shifting into 4wd. I forgot this not so little C clip that holds the output shaft bearing in place. I think because the bearing was able to move it caused some slop and bound up the shift rails. At least that’s what I’m hoping. Fingers crossed. Just waiting for RTV to dry, then fill the case and install.

BD634514-8FF6-413F-8AD7-529AC8D860C7.jpeg
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
Fredo Baggins
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I think I found out why it wasn’t shifting into 4wd. I forgot this not so little C clip that holds the output shaft bearing in place. I think because the bearing was able to move it caused some slop and bound up the shift rails. At least that’s what I’m hoping. Fingers crossed. Just waiting for RTV to dry, then fill the case and install.

View attachment 24960

Is that a J-shift case?
 

AssBurns

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You can bench test those. No need to wait to fill it.
Well last time it worked on the bench but didn’t once it was installed. And of course I bench tested it. I may be regarded but not quite THAT retarded lol
Even though I bench tested it this time even with the C-clip installed, I still had the same issues. This time I was a little more determined to figure it out.
I pulled the case again and noticed that there was a mark on the transmission tail housing right where the shift rail was. Turns out it was exactly what I had suspected, even though BudBuilt said that it was not the issue and there were not clearance issues with this transmission.
All I did was grind a portion of where the shift rail sticks out the front of the transfer case. I only had to grind the shift rail for 2hi/4hi. Got it all back together and it was nice and smooth.
While I was in there I replaced the transmission output seal since I was getting some leaking. My dumbass thought it would be a good idea to try the seal the opposite way to see if it seals better. I knew better... When I ran the motor and let everything warm up it puked oil out the seal. So I pulled the transfer case yet another time to put in another seal the correct orientation. It still leaks a little but barely compared to how it did earlier. I figured I’d have some leaking issues, and hoped the seal adapter ring that @eimkeith designed and had @Trevor Knopp made would fix that issue but it still leaks a little.
Took it for a test drive to an area a few minutes away that has some rocks, ledges and rutted hills. Everything worked out perfect and having the t-case clocked helped on the ledge for sure. Now I need a high clearance crossmember for a complete flat belly.

0350498F-0F9C-4DA2-BBCC-F2EF775C57F7.jpeg



I was enjoying the bumper/skid clearance on this ledge.

E4B783AA-4B0D-4BF2-8640-3D0D66001EDD.jpeg
 

theesotericone

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I may be regarded but not quite THAT retarded lol

Read that and we'll talk later. lol

Nice job getting 4x back. I'm curious when you finish the flat belly how much difference it really makes. I never hang up on my skids. It's always the diff that anchors me.
 

AssBurns

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Read that and we'll talk later. lol

Nice job getting 4x back. I'm curious when you finish the flat belly how much difference it really makes. I never hang up on my skids. It's always the diff that anchors me.
Hahaha fuckin auto correct!
Same! I’m looking forward to seeing how it does. On the ledge I was playing on earlier today it definitely made a difference. I’ve turtled on the t-case enough times to know it’ll help. How much is what we will find out.

Now when is our next trip? Or maybe I should avoid breaking shit for a while until after Dusy.
 

AssBurns

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where is it leaking from? Around the adapter, around the outside of the seal, or around the shaft?
Around the shaft is what it seems. I wonder if the seals that I bought from Spidertrax could work if a new adapter was made. Those seals are pretty legit.
 

eimkeith

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Think it was a sizing issue with the ID of the aftermarket seal?
 

AssBurns

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Think it was a sizing issue with the ID of the aftermarket seal?
The seal itself is pretty damn thin. It doesn't allow much room for error. I think if it had a larger OD it would give more flexibility. The spidertrax seals are crazy stretchy and would probably do the trick.
 

AssBurns

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So really debating on which direction to go with tires. My rear tires are shot. I've had them for a long time and they are almost completely bald lol. I've been holding out because I can't decide which way to go with things. Here are some of the options I've been debating

1) Get another pair of MT/R's since the front ones still have like 50% tread left. Rotate the fronts to the rear and keep chugging along.
2) Get all new tires in a 17" wheel so I can finally have more tire options.
3) Get new wheels and jump up to 37's. I have a buddy that has some Nitto Trail Grapplers he is willing to sell for cheap so he can jump up to 40's.

The issue is I don't want to lose any up travel if I can avoid it. I don't really have room to fit a larger tire without either getting into the door/rear seats, or getting into the rear mounted fuel tank. Eventually I'd like to get a fuel cell and push the axle back another 3-6", so that I can avoid these issues, but that's not happening right now.

So rethinking my options:
1) Keeps things simple and cheapest option to keep things functioning how I want.
2) Really no point in this unless I spend the money on beadlocks
3) Most expensive option and makes fitting tires with lot's of up travel difficult. Plus adds more stress to the front end.

I think I just talked myself into sticking with MT/R's lol
 

kasnerd

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So really debating on which direction to go with tires. My rear tires are shot. I've had them for a long time and they are almost completely bald lol. I've been holding out because I can't decide which way to go with things. Here are some of the options I've been debating

1) Get another pair of MT/R's since the front ones still have like 50% tread left. Rotate the fronts to the rear and keep chugging along.
2) Get all new tires in a 17" wheel so I can finally have more tire options.
3) Get new wheels and jump up to 37's. I have a buddy that has some Nitto Trail Grapplers he is willing to sell for cheap so he can jump up to 40's.

The issue is I don't want to lose any up travel if I can avoid it. I don't really have room to fit a larger tire without either getting into the door/rear seats, or getting into the rear mounted fuel tank. Eventually I'd like to get a fuel cell and push the axle back another 3-6", so that I can avoid these issues, but that's not happening right now.

So rethinking my options:
1) Keeps things simple and cheapest option to keep things functioning how I want.
2) Really no point in this unless I spend the money on beadlocks
3) Most expensive option and makes fitting tires with lot's of up travel difficult. Plus adds more stress to the front end.

I think I just talked myself into sticking with MT/R's lol

What haven't you been able to do in 35s that 37s would let you? Also, I thought when mismatched tread depths, the tires with most tread go in back. Understeer is better/safer/manageable than oversteer?
 

Dukestaco

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So really debating on which direction to go with tires. My rear tires are shot. I've had them for a long time and they are almost completely bald lol. I've been holding out because I can't decide which way to go with things. Here are some of the options I've been debating

1) Get another pair of MT/R's since the front ones still have like 50% tread left. Rotate the fronts to the rear and keep chugging along.
2) Get all new tires in a 17" wheel so I can finally have more tire options.
3) Get new wheels and jump up to 37's. I have a buddy that has some Nitto Trail Grapplers he is willing to sell for cheap so he can jump up to 40's.

The issue is I don't want to lose any up travel if I can avoid it. I don't really have room to fit a larger tire without either getting into the door/rear seats, or getting into the rear mounted fuel tank. Eventually I'd like to get a fuel cell and push the axle back another 3-6", so that I can avoid these issues, but that's not happening right now.

So rethinking my options:
1) Keeps things simple and cheapest option to keep things functioning how I want.
2) Really no point in this unless I spend the money on beadlocks
3) Most expensive option and makes fitting tires with lot's of up travel difficult. Plus adds more stress to the front end.

I think I just talked myself into sticking with MT/R's lol
I was thinking the same thing. The more you talked the more the MTR’s made sense.
 

AssBurns

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What haven't you been able to do in 35s that 37s would let you? Also, I thought when mismatched tread depths, the tires with most tread go in back. Understeer is better/safer/manageable than oversteer?
I already have a ton of understeer. Rear geometry having a negative roll axis angle, and rear end always being locked makes it understeer a lot as it sits. I really need a rear sway bar to help counter that. I designed my 4 link around the idea of having a rear sway bar. It's only been 2 years and I still haven't done it yet lol.
I was thinking the same thing. The more you talked the more the MTR’s made sense.
I'm gonna go ahead and order them now. I can always sell them later if I need to.
 

kasnerd

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I already have a ton of understeer. Rear geometry having a negative roll axis angle, and rear end always being locked makes it understeer a lot as it sits. I really need a rear sway bar to help counter that. I designed my 4 link around the idea of having a rear sway bar. It's only been 2 years and I still haven't done it yet lol.

I'm gonna go ahead and order them now. I can always sell them later if I need to.
do all the things!! 37s, rear sway, LS swap...wait. is that still happeneing??
 
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So really debating on which direction to go with tires. My rear tires are shot. I've had them for a long time and they are almost completely bald lol. I've been holding out because I can't decide which way to go with things. Here are some of the options I've been debating

1) Get another pair of MT/R's since the front ones still have like 50% tread left. Rotate the fronts to the rear and keep chugging along.
2) Get all new tires in a 17" wheel so I can finally have more tire options.
3) Get new wheels and jump up to 37's. I have a buddy that has some Nitto Trail Grapplers he is willing to sell for cheap so he can jump up to 40's.

The issue is I don't want to lose any up travel if I can avoid it. I don't really have room to fit a larger tire without either getting into the door/rear seats, or getting into the rear mounted fuel tank. Eventually I'd like to get a fuel cell and push the axle back another 3-6", so that I can avoid these issues, but that's not happening right now.

So rethinking my options:
1) Keeps things simple and cheapest option to keep things functioning how I want.
2) Really no point in this unless I spend the money on beadlocks
3) Most expensive option and makes fitting tires with lot's of up travel difficult. Plus adds more stress to the front end.

I think I just talked myself into sticking with MT/R's lol
I'm gonna be selling my old beadlocks and MTRs if you're interested, $1200 for all 5. One of the tires has a small leak on the sidewall that I've been driving around on for 7k miles. Tread varies, 2 or them have been replaced
 

theesotericone

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Fredo Baggins
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I'm gonna be selling my old beadlocks and MTRs if you're interested, $1200 for all 5. One of the tires has a small leak on the sidewall that I've been driving around on for 7k miles. Tread varies, 2 or them have been replaced

What old beadlocks? Make, rim size?
 

AssBurns

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do all the things!! 37s, rear sway, LS swap...wait. is that still happeneing??
LS is still happening. Kinda working around my buddies schedule since he has a shop and much more knowledge about this stuff than I do.
I'm gonna be selling my old beadlocks and MTRs if you're interested, $1200 for all 5. One of the tires has a small leak on the sidewall that I've been driving around on for 7k miles. Tread varies, 2 or them have been replaced
All 5 beadlocks and tires for that price?...
 
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