AssBurns BeerRunner Build Thread

Dukestaco

Stirring the pot 24/7
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Oct 3, 2018
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1,645
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Tucson
#61
The way I'm build the tire carrier is to completely avoid the tire carrier from moving by attaching it to the body and frame in well spread out mounting points. I can pretty much make it as tight as I'd like without the carrier hitting the body with this design. This should be stronger and hold up to abuse much better than the spindle design.


Close. This is what I'm going for.
Still debating if I wanna use 1.50" x .120" wall or 1.50" x .095" wall to save a few lbs. I already got a stick of DOM .120" wall but saving some weight could be nice.

View attachment 3013



I noticed that last night. Pretty dumb spot for the logo. I'll likely have to do that too.
Do it ! Othays going to be nice. You should build two. What you learn and don't like about the first one you could fix on the second build.









I'll be here to buy the first one .
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#62
I think I figured out what was making the binding and noise in the drivetrain. First and easiest thing to test was rear spider gears. I jacked up the rear axle and spun the tires, letting one spin forward while the other spins backwards to let all the movement go through the spider gears. Immediately I heard some light clicking noise. But something just didn't make me feel like it was spider gears. The clicking was too consistent and too frequent to be a chipped spider gear(s).

So I pulled the locker actuator and put a screwdriver in there to make sure it was fully disengaged. Sure enough, I was able to push the shift fork out another 1/4". Sounds like the splines of the locker were just enough disengaged to be unlocked, but was still riding along the locker collar. My guess with the binding is when I was turning, that little bit of movement to the side cause the splines to engage just enough to grab, chirp the tires, then pop out again. I was able to still engage and disengage the locker as normal and by the looks of things, the splines don't look damaged.

This still doesn't explain the 4wd lights flashing. It may be something with the ADD tube and vacuum, or it may be the t-case actuators. I gotta delve into a little more and look for some possible issues. The vacuum line has vacuum, but it may not be enough possibly. I'll measure the vacuum pressure this weekend. Anyone know what it's supposed to be?

Hopefully it's something simple and easy, so I can get onto doing more important things like fixing all the broken crap in my core support, new rear body mounts (might just do solid mounts in the rear), making the rear tire carrier, fix some cracks on things, weld in some Eimkeith LCA Reinforcements, Transmission Cooler, possibly power steering cooler, replace broken headlights that are held on by tape, relocate battery, and a ton of other little crap. Also replace my washer and dryer at home, replace the thermostat on my wifes car so we can sell it, and manage to spend time with the family.... Busy, busy, busy...
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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#63
I think I figured out what was making the binding and noise in the drivetrain. First and easiest thing to test was rear spider gears. I jacked up the rear axle and spun the tires, letting one spin forward while the other spins backwards to let all the movement go through the spider gears. Immediately I heard some light clicking noise. But something just didn't make me feel like it was spider gears. The clicking was too consistent and too frequent to be a chipped spider gear(s).

So I pulled the locker actuator and put a screwdriver in there to make sure it was fully disengaged. Sure enough, I was able to push the shift fork out another 1/4". Sounds like the splines of the locker were just enough disengaged to be unlocked, but was still riding along the locker collar. My guess with the binding is when I was turning, that little bit of movement to the side cause the splines to engage just enough to grab, chirp the tires, then pop out again. I was able to still engage and disengage the locker as normal and by the looks of things, the splines don't look damaged.

This still doesn't explain the 4wd lights flashing. It may be something with the ADD tube and vacuum, or it may be the t-case actuators. I gotta delve into a little more and look for some possible issues. The vacuum line has vacuum, but it may not be enough possibly. I'll measure the vacuum pressure this weekend. Anyone know what it's supposed to be?

Hopefully it's something simple and easy, so I can get onto doing more important things like fixing all the broken crap in my core support, new rear body mounts (might just do solid mounts in the rear), making the rear tire carrier, fix some cracks on things, weld in some Eimkeith LCA Reinforcements, Transmission Cooler, possibly power steering cooler, replace broken headlights that are held on by tape, relocate battery, and a ton of other little crap. Also replace my washer and dryer at home, replace the thermostat on my wifes car so we can sell it, and manage to spend time with the family.... Busy, busy, busy...
Is your locker 4wd engage only or do you have a bypass for it like the 2nd gen Tacomas do? Could be it was engaged just enough to fuck with your 4wd ECU?
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#65
Just pulled the trigger on some Energy Suspension Poly Body Mounts. I figured solid mounting the rear might not be the best idea for the integrity of the sheet metal, especially if the rest are soft worn out rubber. Unfortunately the red ones were $58.43 cheaper, and I'd rather save that for beer money than worry about the color (Even though I know it'll probably drive me nuts!). Hopefully they aren't too noticeable. I may need new hardware too since the stock bolts are all bent to shit from dragging across rocks. I may be able to just cut them at the bend and reuse them.

1547153128113.png
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
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Oct 3, 2018
Messages
1,421
Location
Bishop, CA
#66
Just pulled the trigger on some Energy Suspension Poly Body Mounts. I figured solid mounting the rear might not be the best idea for the integrity of the sheet metal, especially if the rest are soft worn out rubber. Unfortunately the red ones were $58.43 cheaper, and I'd rather save that for beer money than worry about the color (Even though I know it'll probably drive me nuts!). Hopefully they aren't too noticeable. I may need new hardware too since the stock bolts are all bent to shit from dragging across rocks. I may be able to just cut them at the bend and reuse them.

View attachment 3122
I was just thinking of this the other day. You have the part number handy. I know it ends in R. lol
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#67

Theblackflag

Mall Crawler
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#68
I just installed those same bushings last week along with my body lift. There is a noticeable amount more vibration from the motor into the cab but it doesn't really bother me. The kit is very well.put together with good directions. I think it took me about an hour for total install
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#69
I just installed those same bushings last week along with my body lift. There is a noticeable amount more vibration from the motor into the cab but it doesn't really bother me. The kit is very well.put together with good directions. I think it took me about an hour for total install
Sweet! Yeah I don’t mind the extra vibrations either. Hope it stiffens up the body enough to keep the tire carrier in place. I’m gonna build the carrier to have some give so it can flex with the body too.
 

Theblackflag

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#70
I have a feeling your mounts will look as bad or worse than some of mine. All of then we're pretty bad but the two below the b pillar we're probably the worst. I could totally collapse them in my hand
 

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AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#71
Picked up the tube bender and tube notcher last night from my buddy. Depending if I have any time this weekend, I may try to get a start on the tire carrier.
87679999-5F6E-44D5-A5CE-8D056B24B851.jpeg
CD41D878-D28E-4199-9113-0E089F3B0822.jpeg

This morning I picked up a stick of 1.50” x .095” wall HREW tubing. I debated going DOM, but since this won’t anything that requires serious structural integrity I went with HREW to save about $50. Not my first choice, but again, beer money is more important.

Strapped that bitch to the roof of the BeerRunner and still was able to stuff it in the garage.

5CEB7FE9-CBE8-4696-9A80-9E2EE8629D31.jpeg
7851C5DB-A65A-42D9-A189-DA5BC55A7C95.jpeg

Don’t mind the front end being held (or lack there of) together by tape.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#73
Dude time for a roof rack too. hahaha.
I've been trying to avoid that for a LONG time. I'm hoping once I get a truck, I can completely eliminate the need for a rack. I can't stand the way it makes a rig look and the added height, but the functionality/utility of them is nice.
 

Hank

Sarcastic asshole
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SF Valley CA / Park City UT
#75
Damn dude. While you have the bender and notcher, you might as well just build a new core support. Your stock inner fenders and core support don't owe you anything. Do the moral thing and retire that poor sheet metal.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#76
Is that Flex Tape on the headlight? That stuff is legit!
It's some filament packing tape. Stuff works great! I used to keep a roll in my trucks tool box for this type of stuff, till I ran out last trip. The roll lasted me since 2014 :)


Damn dude. While you have the bender and notcher, you might as well just build a new core support. Your stock inner fenders and core support don't owe you anything. Do the moral thing and retire that poor sheet metal.
I know, I should do something while I'm at it. I need to figure out how I'm gonna do it (long term plans). I gotta decide where the engine cage will tie in to the eventual cab cage. I wanna move the battery too, so I don't have that damn thing causing stress on those shitty fenders. For now, I may just tie that fucked up piece and the battery tray into the frame to keep it from getting worse. It's not really attached to the body at the moment anyways, so might as well until I can dedicate some quality time to gutting the whole engine bay and inner fenders.
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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#77
It's some filament packing tape. Stuff works great! I used to keep a roll in my trucks tool box for this type of stuff, till I ran out last trip. The roll lasted me since 2014 :)




I know, I should do something while I'm at it. I need to figure out how I'm gonna do it (long term plans). I gotta decide where the engine cage will tie in to the eventual cab cage. I wanna move the battery too, so I don't have that damn thing causing stress on those shitty fenders. For now, I may just tie that fucked up piece and the battery tray into the frame to keep it from getting worse. It's not really attached to the body at the moment anyways, so might as well until I can dedicate some quality time to gutting the whole engine bay and inner fenders.
It's a 4th gen build, but look at @wishbone runner on TW. He redid his entire engine bay and relocated his battery tray and electronics while he was at it. Might give you some ideas. He's been MIA for awhile but I think he just had another kid. I'd love to get him here on IDPOR. Dude's build was one of the first ones I read through and helped me into a 4th gen.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#78
It's a 4th gen build, but look at @wishbone runner on TW. He redid his entire engine bay and relocated his battery tray and electronics while he was at it. Might give you some ideas. He's been MIA for awhile but I think he just had another kid. I'd love to get him here on IDPOR. Dude's build was one of the first ones I read through and helped me into a 4th gen.
You tell me to just go find it? No linky?! You are useless!
 

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