AssBurns BeerRunner Build Thread

[theesotericone]

I can always rig up the radiator and battery and still drive it?

I’m out for the count for a few weeks at best. I was supposed to go to the river with my brother Labor Day weekend but had to bail so I can finish this pile before Dusy. Kinda bummed to miss a river trip but Dusy is priority right now.

Not San G? lol

 

[4runner DOA]

Not San G? lol

I think San g is gonna be a mellow trip this year. I'll probably just run gold and call it. Can't afford to break anything right now, I've got court the following Tuesday. Hahah.

 

[AssBurns]

Not San G? lol

I’ll be there wether my rig is ready or not. Might just have to steal my dads JK or something for that trip if need be.

 

[theesotericone]

I’ll be there wether my rig is ready or not. Might just have to steal my dads JK or something for that trip if need be.

Yeah. That'll go over like a Boy George outfit at a Klan rally. Take some photo's for me. lol

 

[4runner DOA]

Yeah. That'll go over like a Boy George outfit at a Klan rally. Take some photo's for me. lol

I'll strap the GoPro to my chest.

 

[AssBurns]

Yeah. That'll go over like a Boy George outfit at a Klan rally. Take some photo's for me. lol

Hahah it’ll still probably be the coolest and most capable vehicle there. I just gotta learn to drive it in the rocks. It makes those trails stupid easy.

 

[eimkeith]

Committed now. Pulled the winch, lights, battery, and core support last night. I didn’t realize how much wiring is actually attached to the core support and fenders. There’s a ton of random shit.
Pulling the core support I just drilled out the spot welds (whatever was left of them) and used tin snips to trim and finagle it all out. Tonight I’m going to cut the fenders off and maybe the bumper if I have time.
Speaking of bumper, I’ll be selling the bumper and skid if anyone is interested in it. Not willing to ship though. I figured I’d post here first to let you guys get first dibs.

View attachment 10665View attachment 10666

Bravo!

 

[AssBurns]

Didn’t get much done tonight. My parents came over for dinner last minute and that killed most of my night. I did get some mocking up done though. I figured out radiator placement (at least a rough estimate) but that is the starting point for everything else. Core support, engine cage, winch placement and bumper will all be based off that. I’m going to do a 3”x3”x.250” angle iron for the radiator crossmember, then build up the core support with 1.5” x .120” tubing. From there work on the engine cage. Once all that is done, I can jump into the the winch placement and bumper.

I also noticed that the 2 of the bolts holding front diff the driver side bracket are missing and the 3rd is almost half way backed out. I’m pretty sure I even torqued them and used loctite on them. Glad I caught that.

 

[AssBurns]

Didn’t get as much done today as I hoped for. This morning I went to get some metal, and got hit up by a buddy that that moved to SLC after high school and was in town, so we grabbed breakfast. Well that pretty much killed the whole morning lol. Got some tubing, some angle iron and a sheet of 3/16” plate.
today I was able to cut off the old bumper, cut off the stock body mounts, tack in the radiator crossmember, and tack in the radiator supports and mounting tabs. I got a general idea where the engine cage tubes will go. Should be pretty simple. The approach angle is going to be SO much better than what I had before. You can see the last pic where the skid will eventually be. The 3/16” skid will be about 1/16” from the bulkhead crossmember, so it won’t have any room for the skid to cave in. I can’t wait to go wheeling after this.

I need to get the tube bender setup so I can start bending some tubes. I need to install some studs into the floor of the garage, but I really don’t want to have the studs sticking out for people to trip over. Any way to have some sort of nutsert for concrete?

 

[theesotericone]

Any way to have some sort of nutsert for concrete?

Google "Red Head drop in anchor". There super easy to install and are exactly what you want.

 

[AssBurns]

Google "Red Head drop in anchor". There super easy to install and are exactly what you want.

Dude I almost called you today asking about this. I got busy and never made the call. I guess I know what I’m doing tomorrow morning! Thanks

 

[AssBurns]

Got a few tubes done yesterday afternoon. Also got the tube bender mounted. Super stoked that it’s setup and working. Now just need hydraulic and more dies.
Once I got the bender mounted, I got to work bending the main tube that will go from the radiator core support tube, back towards the firewall and down to the frame under the firewall. I made some frame plates out of 1/8” plate for where the tubes attach to the frame. After I got those main hoops tacked in, I started on the crossover tube that runs across the firewall, over the brake booster on the drivers side. Unfortunately I either bent the tube too much or started the bend on the tube too short, so now the tube is about 3/4” off from being right where is needs to be. Wasted most of that tube. I can still cut it and use the straight piece later on. Once I realized I fucked up that piece, it was getting dark and I wanted to get the radiator top tube done before cleaning up. That one was easy peasy. Just cut and do two 20° notches and it popped right in.
If I have time tonight I’d like to redo that fucked up piece and maybe get started on some of the support tubes from the coil buckets to the main tube. One thing that I was able to pull off (wasn’t sure if I was going to be able to), was keeping the booster accessible in case of failure. I should be able to pull that with the tubes in there. The goal was to keep everything under the hood accessible, which is so far working out well.




Reference to where the furthest point forward on the frame rails. The frame rails will be cut where that plate ends. It’s 2.25” back from the front body mount weld. Can’t complain there. Gonna be so much nicer than the approach angle I had before.

 

[AssBurns]

Fixed that crossover tube last night. It’s hard notching something that meets a tube at weird angles and also on a bend. Took me a while to get the notch right. I just used an angle grinder and a paint marker on this one to get it dialed. I really didn’t get anything else done. I was so tired after work that I came home and slept for over an hour before going out to the garage. I think I might get started on the winch location and the start to the front bumper so that I can get the support tubes where needed when tying the bumper to the cage.

 

[WileECoyote]

Damn dude, that's gonna look pretty cool!!! Very SWEET!!!

 

[AssBurns]

Got a rough idea where the front bumper support and main tubes will be. Still gotta clean up the notches a little since they aren’t perfect but they are close enough to mock up. I also got the hood notched for the radiator cross tube. I’ll be doing hood pins instead of the stock latch. I’ve already had the stock latch fail on me and I’m not willing to risk that happening while I’m going fast or on the highway.
It sucks that by the time I get home from work and get started on this it’s already almost 8 o’clock so I only have like an hour or two to be loud before I really piss off my new neighbors. I’m trying to balance getting shit done and being a decent neighbor, but I keep losing track of time and realizing that it’s past 10 when I’m in the middle of cutting or grinding shit.

I also drew up some ideas for the bumper/winch mount/fairlead location. I’m liking option 2, but option 1 will give me more room for shit and fully protect the winch. Might do something in the middle though.

 

[AssBurns]

For comparisons sake. Coastal offroad has the highest clearance bumper that is bolt on, which is actually really impressive considering it's just bolt on. Their's sticks out about 2.5" from the front of the grill, whereas mine will stick out about 2.75"-3" past the grill. However, mine will have a recessed fairlead (saving about an inch or so of forward clearance) and a much better angle at the frame rails. I don't know the exact measurement on how far back the frame rails are cut back from stock, but the radiator crossmember is about 2.25" further back than the stock body mount front weld line.

(EDIT: @eimkeith gave me some measurements from his. The body mount weld to the stock frame rail ends are 75mm or 2.95". So add the 2.25" and we're looking at 5.2" that my frame rails are cut back from stock. )

 

[Dezert4Runner]

I have a feeling you’re going to need to exo your front end if you want to keep any of your stock front lights! Especially based on the headlights being glass...

 

[AssBurns]

I have a feeling you’re going to need to exo your front end if you want to keep any of your stock front lights! Especially based on the headlights being glass...

Nah, I'll have some tube there to protect them like I had before. If I keep busting headlights, I'll end up going with some offroad lights that can handle more abuse. I've busted corner lights, but the headlights only broke last time around because the core support was falling apart and the headlights were bouncing all over the place. I think I'll be fine, but maybe not. We'll see.

 

[madtaco461]

Nice work. Looking good. Notches on bends are the best

 

[AssBurns]

I need a new fairlead for the new bumper since the one I have is super bulky and would just make things not fit the way I'd like. I was initially going to just get some cheap low profile one from Amazon for like $20, but after reading a little about fairleads, I came to the conclusion that it probably would be best to just get something that I know will last and hold up to abuse. Since I'm designing my bumper to have a recessed fairlead, I need to know the exact measurements of the fairlead to make it fit nice and tight. I was worried that a cheap fairlead would be cast aluminum instead of high quality billet. Cast aluminum is more likely to crack or chip and fuck up the synthetic winch line, so I decided on something higher end that I wouldn't need to replace later. Only reason I justified spending $70 on a fairlead is because I just sold some old motorcycle parts on eBay yesterday for $80. I almost threw the parts in the trash, but figured someone might actually want them. Glad I listed it instead of tossing it.

The new one is a Factor 55 1.0" fairlead.