AssBurns BeerRunner Build Thread

Thesandaddict

The dude
Official Vendor
Joined
May 7, 2019
Messages
1,237
Age
36
Location
West Covina
dont turbo it. just throw a fun cam in and enjoy it. as a hp retard it hurts to even say, but more down time and you KNOW it will cause some issues at some point. KISS. LQ4 with a cam will be more than you will ever need, ever. just my unsolicited .02
 

kasnerd

Danny's Red Headed Step Child
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
4,791
dont turbo it. just throw a fun cam in and enjoy it. as a hp retard it hurts to even say, but more down time and you KNOW it will cause some issues at some point. KISS. LQ4 with a cam will be more than you will ever need, ever. just my unsolicited .02

but....but...no WOOOSH and PSSSHH noises??? and no burned up turbos mid trail or out in the middle of nowhere??? pfft!! Bringing common sense and logic in here.

Bullet(idiot)-proofing the engine is sage advice. Having to pull it after something goes kaboom, yer not gonna have a good time.

iu
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Well I think I'm gonna hold off on the turbo thing. It's just hard for me to justify spending the money right now. Sure I can pull it off, but I'm not trying too make too many bad financial decisions all at once. The biggest turnoff was time and expense, but also the amount of room it takes up in the engine bay. I already have a pretty busy engine bay, so stuffing a turbo, intercooler and all the plumbing, it'll just make it way busier. SOOO.... I think I'll just move my forced induction plans towards the future when I've got more budget and go with a supercharger since it takes up way less space in the engine bay. I'll likely have plenty of room for an LSA or something similar to sit up top, so that'll get me where I want to be in the future without compromising too much on engine bay space. Idk. I just don't think a turbo is going to be the best idea for me right now with all the things I mentioned above.


In other news, I got the concrete work done in the backyard last week. Extended the patio along the back of the house so my wife is happy and doesn't have to see all the junk behind the garage when we hang out on the patio and have people over. While the concrete guy was here I had him pour two footings for the twin post lift. I have the guys installing the lift next Tuesday and I'll have my electrical guy come install the power sometime after the holiday. Shoulda have a working lift within the next couple weeks it sounds like :rockon:
 
Joined
Dec 1, 2020
Messages
404
What about going with an engine swap that came with turbo/s OEM, being able to run the stock ECU will save $ by not having to go with an aftermarket, larger pool of info to pull from if u decide to up power down the road, easier to find used parts a savings vs custom, more custom tunes to draw on, etc. Going back and adding the turbo seems way more expensive. rebuilding ur engine bay around the engine during the swap to clear up what u can now vs later.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Some more progress. Motor is mounted and exhaust crossover tube is being done. Radiator is being mocked up and fans will be picked accordingly. Might have to go dual fans instead of one larger one to have better clearance against the motor pulleys. LS1 intake manifold with adapter cups for truck fuel rails, camaro water pump for better clearance and hose routing, Alternator and PS pump relocation kit is on. Bumper right now is pushed 3.25" forward, which isn't all too bad since the hubs will be pushed about 2.5" forward once I get my LT done. Shouldn't really lose any net clearance once the LT is done and a little higher ride height.



1608144992250.png
1608145018708.png
1608145033655.png1608144942291.png
1608144972824.png
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Oh I forgot to mention, I bought a 2' x 2' plasma table the other day. Comes with plasma torch, computer, monitor, software, and stainless water table. Should make shock tabs and brackets a breeze. Now I need to get the Swag Offroad Finger Brake Kit and Flat Top V die Brake Kit to be able to bend plate easily and accurately. I'll probably order that stuff next month since I don't really need it quite yet.

https://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-20-TON-Finger-Brake-Heavy-Duty-DIY-Builder-Kit_p_86.html
https://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-20-TON-FLAT-TOP-Adjustable-Bottom-V-Die-_p_94.html
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Been slowly chipping away at some CAD work on the rear mezzanine arm suspension. One of the things I needed to figure out was the sway bar location. I thought about using some unit bearing hubs for the mezzanine arm pivots so that the sway bar could be integrated into the hubs, but I had a couple reasons against it. More cost, more weight (something that could handle a 35 spline shaft would be pretty big), and much more difficult to pull the sway bar shaft if I needed to swap it out or modify it. Since the body panels will be covering things, I can't just pull the bar from the side like most race cars or buggies. I'll have to be able to unbolt the tube and pull the whole assembly out the rear. Still debating exactly how I'll make it easily removable, but shouldn't be difficult to do.

Once I decided not to go with an integrated sway bar/mezzanine arm design, I needed to figure out where to locate it since there is really not a whole lot of extra room for packaging in the back of the 4runner with all the stuff I got going on. Since nobody sells a sway bar arm short enough to work (7.5" center to center), I just went ahead and designed my own using a splined coupler. I know there is the whole theory that you need a long sway bar arm and linkage, but that is mostly around when you have a 1:1 motion ratio with large travel numbers. With this design the short arm will provide much less leverage making the sway bar much more effective, however with the motion ratio will be drastically increased, so these two factors should equal each other out well. Either way I know I'll likely need a pretty stiff sway bar to be effective and limit articulation Shit would bind if there wasn't anything limiting articulation.

Based on some preliminary numbers that I have, the travel should be bumped and strapped somewhere around 23-24". The next thing I need to figure out is will I have enough room under the rear seats for the upper links to have this much up travel. I'm shooting for about 50/50 up/down travel. I already plan to cut out most of the floor so that's not too big of a concern, but I don't want the seats to get too high to where an adult can't sit back there without their head being dangerously close to the cage.



Took me a bit to figure out how to draw splines in Fusion 360.

1608531717727.png


Full droop.


1608531949544.png


Full bump


1608531971472.png


1608532104616.png


Thinking I'll probably french the bump stop into the frame like this.

1608532833674.png
 

Dezert4Runner

Pineapples belong on pizza
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Messages
1,172
So what’s the motion ratio on that? Look similar to the front which is close to 2:1. What size c/o are you planning on running?
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
So what’s the motion ratio on that? Look similar to the front which is close to 2:1. What size c/o are you planning on running?
The coilover is at a 2:1 ratio with 14" coilovers. The bypass is 1.33:1 ratio with 18" bypasses. I might be able to push the bypasses a little further down the arm to get closer to like 1.4:1 ratio which I might do but I need to make sure I have room for 2.5" coilovers and 3.0 bypasses without any interference. The spacing on the arms are 7" right now between the coilover and bypass. I might be able to get away with 6" spacing for 1.4:1 ratio.
 

kasnerd

Danny's Red Headed Step Child
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
4,791
Ordered. Got a gift card to 4WP from my team at work so decided to finally pull the trigger on some BD Squadron Pro's that I've been wanting for a while.

View attachment 31792

They are bright AF and have them installed as the "fog lights" in the plate bumper. REALLY good stuff. Very happy when some ahole gets in front of me and I light em up along with the 55w high beams
 
Joined
Dec 21, 2020
Messages
23
Age
28
Location
NorCal
Just read through your thread - you still have the AWD Multi-Mode transfer case?
I heard you may have switched to the earlier J-Shift but saw no mentions of it.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Just read through your thread - you still have the AWD Multi-Mode transfer case?
I heard you may have switched to the earlier J-Shift but saw no mentions of it.
I got rid of the multimode when the actuator failed. I had a J-Shift case with the Bud Built clocking ring on the side of my house for a year so I took the opportunity to swap that in while I was at it. Now that I am doing the motor swap I have the NP203/205 dual cases going in.
They are bright AF and have them installed as the "fog lights" in the plate bumper. REALLY good stuff. Very happy when some ahole gets in front of me and I light em up along with the 55w high beams
I'm looking forward to them. I had some LazerStar HID's and those performed pretty damn well, but they were huge and I had to make removeable brackets that made the lights stick way past my bumper giving me shitty approach angles. Kind took away the whole point in a high clearance bumper lol. On rock crawling trails I would unbolt them, then on desert trips I'd bolt them back on . Super annoying stuff. These are going to be very much needed.
 
Joined
Dec 21, 2020
Messages
23
Age
28
Location
NorCal
I got rid of the multimode when the actuator failed. I had a J-Shift case with the Bud Built clocking ring on the side of my house for a year so I took the opportunity to swap that in while I was at it. Now that I am doing the motor swap I have the NP203/205 dual cases going in.

How was swapping in the J-Shift? Swap the case and just a little bit of wiring?
Starting to look into it for the ability to run dual cases.

Well shit. Long time time no see.
Who do you know here? :spy:
 

kasnerd

Danny's Red Headed Step Child
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
4,791
I got rid of the multimode when the actuator failed. I had a J-Shift case with the Bud Built clocking ring on the side of my house for a year so I took the opportunity to swap that in while I was at it. Now that I am doing the motor swap I have the NP203/205 dual cases going in.

I'm looking forward to them. I had some LazerStar HID's and those performed pretty damn well, but they were huge and I had to make removeable brackets that made the lights stick way past my bumper giving me shitty approach angles. Kind took away the whole point in a high clearance bumper lol. On rock crawling trails I would unbolt them, then on desert trips I'd bolt them back on . Super annoying stuff. These are going to be very much needed.

2020-12-21 12.28.10.jpg
2020-12-21 12.28.06.jpg
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,882
Location
OC
How was swapping in the J-Shift? Swap the case and just a little bit of wiring?
Starting to look into it for the ability to run dual cases.


Who do you know here? :spy:

I used to be dtaco06 on a forum far far away. :peep:

I probably miss that 4runner thread the most. We had some good times there.
 
Top Bottom