Body Lift Questions

Nvpe

99 4Runner Limited
Joined
Nov 17, 2018
Messages
24
Age
25
Location
Denver, Colorado
So I'm looking to do a body lift on my 99 4runner preparing to be able to run bigger tires and am unsure about a few things:
What body lift size is best to be able to run 35-inch tires?
How do I correct the bumper gaps?
Is there any way to hide the body gap?

Just trying to answer a few questions before I pull the trigger.

Build Specs:
3" Toytec Boss Lift kit
Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/70/17
Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers
Rokmen Trail Series Lower Links
Rokmen Adj Rear DOM UCA's
TNF DIY Front Bumper
Smittybuilt XRC 9000 winch
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,896
Location
OC
For the most part you're probably going to hear cut more vs body lift since it raises the center of gravity. Aside from that, if you only do a 1/2" you shouldn't have to worry too much about bumper gaps or raising your center of gravity too much. It shouldn't look too bad, and should actually help with the body/frame flexing off road and the bumpers contacting the body panels. I know with the 4th gen 4runner you can safely do a 1" body lift, but 1.5" and up you have to extend the steering shaft which can introduce issues with steering. I'm actually debating a 1/2" body lift myself because I need new bushings/bolts anyway and it should help with some clearance issues in the rear.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Like @4runner DOA said. For 35's, I'd say you don't really need a body lift. Your main focus should be on cutting to fit (tubbing your firewall and trimming fenders). However, @Theblackflag just did a REALLY clean tub job on his 3rd gen with a 1" BL and his has a ton of clearance all the way around. A 1" BL is about the most I'd ever recommend going.

What are your goals with the rig, and do you have the ability to cut/weld? That plays a big factor on what you should realistically do to clear 35's.
 

Nvpe

99 4Runner Limited
Joined
Nov 17, 2018
Messages
24
Age
25
Location
Denver, Colorado
Like @4runner DOA said. For 35's, I'd say you don't really need a body lift. Your main focus should be on cutting to fit (tubbing your firewall and trimming fenders). However, @Theblackflag just did a REALLY clean tub job on his 3rd gen with a 1" BL and his has a ton of clearance all the way around. A 1" BL is about the most I'd ever recommend going.

What are your goals with the rig, and do you have the ability to cut/weld? That plays a big factor on what you should realistically do to clear 35's.
The main goal is to be able to step the trail game up and to stop hearing my jeep buddies complain about my puny 33's. I might look into a 1in or so like you were saying. I want to be able to clear 35's without bottoming out. I already bottom out with 33's but that could also be because my bump stops are non-existent at this point (@eimkeith will be in contact with you shortly lol) and I have zero experience with cutting and welding. Tubbing is the thing that I didn't want to have to do if at all possible since I don't know what the hell I'm doing. I'm sure I can make it work with JB Weld and some tin snips.
 
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
354
Age
54
With a 1" BL and 35s you will still be rubbing unless you really limit up-travel. But you don't have to cut as much.

Also, the bigger tires you go with the more important wheel backspacing becomes as you increase the odds for frame rubbage.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
The main goal is to be able to step the trail game up and to stop hearing my jeep buddies complain about my puny 33's. I might look into a 1in or so like you were saying. I want to be able to clear 35's without bottoming out. I already bottom out with 33's but that could also be because my bump stops are non-existent at this point (@eimkeith will be in contact with you shortly lol) and I have zero experience with cutting and welding. Tubbing is the thing that I didn't want to have to do if at all possible since I don't know what the hell I'm doing. I'm sure I can make it work with JB Weld and some tin snips.
If you don't have the means to tub, you should really consider finding a friend that can help you out. A 1" BL paired with some tubbing will get you where you need to be. You can make 35's work without rubbing, but it will take more work and more help from a friend to make fit properly. I'd see if someone can help you replicate what @Theblackflag just recently did. Maybe he can chime in and post some pics for you. There is a thread around here that he just posted in with pics. I think it was "What size tire can I realistically fit?" or something like that.
 
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
354
Age
54
If you don't have the means to tub, you should really consider finding a friend that can help you out. A 1" BL paired with some tubbing will get you where you need to be. You can make 35's work without rubbing, but it will take more work and more help from a friend to make fit properly. I'd see if someone can help you replicate what @Theblackflag just recently did. Maybe he can chime in and post some pics for you. There is a thread around here that he just posted in with pics. I think it was "What size tire can I realistically fit?" or something like that.

Except for maybe the frame notching.
 

Theblackflag

Mall Crawler
Vendor
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
140
Age
25
Location
Bozeman MT
Didnt get an email for @AssBurns mention so I'm a little late. But here's my thought on body lifts, they are good in moderation and they serve a purpose. I went with a 1 inch because it raises the COG such a negligible amount you will never notice it, you hardly can tell its there with the body gaps, and since I was building new armor anyway it wasn't a huge deal to make them fit right. Don't be fooled though because that 1 inch while it makes fitting tires way easier it isn't a cure all. One of the other benefits no one talks about is that it makes working on things under the truck so much easier, it is a night and day difference for changing the oil filter and other little things like that.

Heres some pictures of how much I still had to cut to properly make the 35s fit. After doing this Ive concluded that 99% of the guys "clearing" 35s out there with minimal tubbing and no body lift are full of shit or they just dont stuff their tires. I also decided to add an 1/8 inch washer to my bumpstops to make sure if I were to slam down super hard there is very little chance the bumpstops will compress enough to close the gap and rub the tires. I also notched the frame because they were rubbing the frame hard enough that at full lock it would totally stop the tire which Im sure with the front locker on would be instant breakage. Ive had a lot of mixed reception with that, some people love it, others were so pissed about it I just had to laugh. End of the day I made it plenty strong enough and have no worries about it

IMAG1143 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
IMAG1144 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
IMAG1145 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
IMAG1148 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
Fredo Baggins
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
3,494
Location
Bishop, CA
After doing this Ive concluded that 99% of the guys "clearing" 35s out there with minimal tubbing and no body lift are full of shit or they just dont stuff their tires.

Me and @AssBurns have been saying the exact thing for a while. I can't possibly see how anyone who wheels hard would not rub like crazy with just taking a BFH to everything.

As far as your frame notch goes, I think it was a pretty slick idea. I've been running 1 1/4" spacers for a long time so I barely rub the frame full stuff full lock but if your not running spacers or have a higher backspace rim I can see the frame notch working well. Nice work on all of it. Super clean.
 

Theblackflag

Mall Crawler
Vendor
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
140
Age
25
Location
Bozeman MT
Even a lot of the tub jobs Ive seen all seem way too light. Especially knowing most are running closer to 3.5 or 3 inch backspacing which only would make it rub worse, where Im at 4'. Most guys are only trimming the a pillar area but even If I were to beat the rest of the wheel well there's no way it wouldn't rub. I had to push everything back close to an inch and a half. Kinda felt like driving a go cart at first lol.
 

WrenchnWheel

Instagram: @Wrench.n.Wheel
Joined
Feb 1, 2019
Messages
174
Age
31
Location
Sacramento, CA
Here is my take, I have a 1" body lift on 33s, I do not rub whatsoever and my wheels are 4.5" backspacing. When I do go 35s, i want to do a tapered body lift 1.5" in the front to 1" in the back, wheels will be 3.75" backspacing or 3.5" and I will either tub or BFH the hell out of them wheel wells. I plan to adjust my bumper to the body lift though in the future as my front bumper was made for no body lift, them homies at Addicted offroad really hate body lifts.
 

eimkeith

IFSFFS.
Official Vendor
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
817
Age
52
Location
NC
I went with a 1 inch because it raises the COG such a negligible amount you will never notice it, you hardly can tell its there with the body gaps . . . One of the other benefits no one talks about is that it makes working on things under the truck so much easier, it is a night and day difference for changing the oil filter and other little things like that.

^ this. plus you can tuck things up higher (tank, link mounts, radiator, etc.)

. . . I also decided to add an 1/8 inch washer to my bumpstops to make sure if I were to slam down super hard there is very little chance the bumpstops will compress enough to close the gap and rub the tires.

great idea. I pulled the bumpstops and used a bolt to establish a 13mm clearance between LCA and the bump pad on the frame before I started tubbing for similar reasons (I want to be able to get the tire as high as is reasonably possible) I also have a 1" BL, and that additional overhead clearance in the wheel well combined with the 13mm gap at the bumpstop maxes out the SPC UBJ, so that's the absolute upper limit in my opinion.

to avoid frame contact (and give myself extra room on the firewall), I'm going to run -25mm offset wheels and the stock length Solo Motorsports LCAs which move the LBJ one inch forward. I expect to cut much more out of the battery and air cleaner areas than most, though.

Here's my cut (in progress, I just got a 35 to verify clearance with last week, will likely be tuning this up some more):

PMEY1855.JPG
 

eimkeith

IFSFFS.
Official Vendor
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
817
Age
52
Location
NC
another 1" BL benefit is the increased room in the rear wheel wells:

32.5" on 0 offset 17x8, and 315s on 12.7mm offset 16x7, both on the factory (non-extended) bump stop, factory links (which push the tire in weird arcs through the travel range) - there's some trimming to do with the 315, but it isn't major:

IMG_8628.JPG7A38DD80-6708-4273-930C-9751C73F1240.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom