Brake Issue

[Nvpe]

So I recently replaced my brake pads and rotors (in the front). Once I got all done, I went to test drive and the brakes were not working properly. You have to press all the way down on the brake pedal to have it attempt to stop. I bled the brakes several times to see if this would help. I checked for cracks in the brakes lines and could not see any immediate damage. What are some things that could be causing these issues?

 

[Slim-Whitey]

If you didn't touch the brake lines, it's not likely a hydraulic issue.

Curious, were there multiple rotor thicknesses for your year of truck, depending on trim/option package?

I bought rotors for a dodge once with 3 different possible rotor thicknesses, and all would interchange.

That'd be something to check.

 

[madtaco461]

Try bleeding them. I always bleed after doing my brakes.

 

[4runner DOA]

So I recently replaced my brake pads and rotors (in the front). Once I got all done, I went to test drive and the brakes were not working properly. You have to press all the way down on the brake pedal to have it attempt to stop. I bled the brakes several times to see if this would help. I checked for cracks in the brakes lines and could not see any immediate damage. What are some things that could be causing these issues?

Could be stuck piston. When they're pressed back into the caliper they can take brake dust and gunk past the seal if they aren't cleaned well enough.

 

[Slim-Whitey]

Could be stuck piston. When they're pressed back into the caliper they can take brake dust and gunk past the seal if they aren't cleaned well enough.

Oooo that's a good one.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Yep, no lines cracked open or letting the MC get low enough to let air into the system, and a simple pad & rotor change should not affect the pedal travel. I am thinking something happened.

One time I was changing pads on a friend’s Tundra and accidentally cracked a caliper bolt (the ones holding the 2 halves together, not the mounting bolts), and introduced air into the system. My bet is on that based off your info.

 

[Nvpe]

If you didn't touch the brake lines, it's not likely a hydraulic issue.

Curious, were there multiple rotor thicknesses for your year of truck, depending on trim/option package?

I bought rotors for a dodge once with 3 different possible rotor thicknesses, and all would interchange.

That'd be something to check.

Im not sure if there was I have a bigger rotor size on my runner instead of the stock size I upgraded to a 319mm

 

[Slim-Whitey]

And this rotor swap was the time when you upgraded?

See if the upgraded rotors have the same thickness as the factory ones if so.
If you have extra pedal travel, but the pedal tightens up and you stop, the brakes are traveling further. A sized piston gives excessively stiff pedal feel (I had both fronts seize on an old camper in the middle of a 300 miles trek. Good times).

 

[Nvpe]

Never thought of this! Do you think cleaning the entire system with brake clean could fix this issue?

Could be stuck piston. When they're pressed back into the caliper they can take brake dust and gunk past the seal if they aren't cleaned well enough.

 

[4runner DOA]

Never thought of this! Do you think cleaning the entire system with brake clean could fix this issue?

No idea. If it's a stuck piston you could look at rebuild kits, most people just replace the caliper.

 

[Nvpe]

And this rotor swap was the time when you upgraded?

See if the upgraded rotors have the same thickness as the factory ones if so.
If you have extra pedal travel, but the pedal tightens up and you stop, the brakes are traveling further. A sized piston gives excessively stiff pedal feel (I had both fronts seize on an old camper in the middle of a 300 miles trek. Good times).

i believe they do! I did the rotor upgrade about a year ago and have run them with no problem. It was when I had the rotors resurfaced and had changed out the brake pads this time that I started to have problems.

 

[Nvpe]

No idea. If it's a stuck piston you could look at rebuild kits, most people just replace the caliper.

now the better question is how the hell do you tell if the piston is stuck?

 

[4runner DOA]

now the better question is how the hell do you tell if the piston is stuck?

Have someone apply the brakes while turning each wheel off the ground. If they stop, probably not stuck. Only other way, use a temp gun. One side will be much much hotter than the other after driving around.

 

[Slim-Whitey]

You had them resurfaced?

As in.... You had them lathed down to get rid of warping?

So they're thinner?

Also, turning rotors isn't recommended these days. Back in the day there was lots of extra meat on rotors. No longer. So nowadays you turn them, and the areas that were warped, which got cut down, are too thin, and they warp again even faster.

 

[Slim-Whitey]

Have someone apply the brakes while turning each wheel off the ground. If they stop, probably not stuck. Only other way, use a temp gun. One side will be much much hotter than the other after driving around.

A caliper stuck open will leave you with a pedal that doesn't travel correctly.

Braking systems are one way. You press the master cylinder, it pushes fluid. You release it, fluid comes back. That's why the system must be sealed. There isn't a reroute (overflow) line.

So if your caliper is stuck, any line attached to that caliper will either be very soft (stuck open) or very hard (stuck closed).

Still worth jacking it up and checking.

 

[4runner DOA]

A caliper stuck open will leave you with a pedal that doesn't travel correctly.

Braking systems are one way. You press the master cylinder, it pushes fluid. You release it, fluid comes back. That's why the system must be sealed. There isn't a reroute (overflow) line.

So if your caliper is stuck, any line attached to that caliper will either be very soft (stuck open) or very hard (stuck closed).

Still worth jacking it up and checking.

It's a common issue on 4th gen runners in winter salted areas. Not so much with 5th or 3rd gens. Been awhile since I've looked but I don't remember if the pedal is usually an issue. Just giving him something to think about if he's already bled all the air out.

Then again, it is a 3rd gen runner. Could be a leaking wheel cylinders in the rear since it's drum. Might not be enough to leave fluid on the ground but enough to let air into the system.

 

[Nvpe]

A caliper stuck open will leave you with a pedal that doesn't travel correctly.

Braking systems are one way. You press the master cylinder, it pushes fluid. You release it, fluid comes back. That's why the system must be sealed. There isn't a reroute (overflow) line.

So if your caliper is stuck, any line attached to that caliper will either be very soft (stuck open) or very hard (stuck closed).

Still worth jacking it up and checking.

So i did the spinning of the wheel and then pushing the brake pedal. When the brake pedal is pushed you can still spin the wheel. Could this be due to the turning of the rotors? Do you think that with them being shaved down could cause it to not be thick enough to grab??

 

[Nvpe]

You had them resurfaced?

As in.... You had them lathed down to get rid of warping?

So they're thinner?

Also, turning rotors isn't recommended these days. Back in the day there was lots of extra meat on rotors. No longer. So nowadays you turn them, and the areas that were warped, which got cut down, are too thin, and they warp again even faster.

Yes! do you think that could be the issue? I had them resurfaced to get rid of the warping. I'm starting to think that they shaved off too much and there isn't enough thickness for the brake pads to grab. Could this be a possibility?

 

[4runner DOA]

So i did the spinning of the wheel and then pushing the brake pedal. When the brake pedal is pushed you can still spin the wheel. Could this be due to the turning of the rotors? Do you think that with them being shaved down could cause it to not be thick enough to grab??

Brakes aren't engaging if you can still spin the tire with no drag. Even a turned rotor would still have grab with new brake pads.

 

[Nvpe]

Brakes aren't engaging if you can still spin the tire with no drag. Even a turned rotor would still have grab with new brake pads.

They do grab but just not as strong as they should. What else do you think could cause this issue? Could I have a leak somewhere? They did have to shave the rotors down a lot to get it back to a good surface.