Clocked Transfer Case

AssBurns

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#1
Well I think a lot of us have probably dreamed of having a ton of ground clearance without lifting the hell out of their rig. I know I have for a long time. That's why I've slowly been chipping away at increasing my ground clearance by relocating the fuel tank, and doing 4-link. However the last piece of the puzzle for a complete flat belly is a clocked transfer case. Bud Built used to have a kit but he had some sealing issues causing leaks, so they stopped selling them. @yota864x4 said that Inchworm used to sell a kit as well but it leaks. Does anyone else want to have a flat belly with a stock t-case? I feel like if we had enough interest, maybe we can get someone to come back to this idea and make a legit kit that resolves the leaking issues.

Anyone have the capability to design something like this?
@eimkeith?


Here are some images I had saved from a thread on Pirate4x4

7eefe449.jpg 03435f65.jpg d5f12527.jpg DSCN0321.jpg
 

eimkeith

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#3
Well I think a lot of us have probably dreamed of having a ton of ground clearance without lifting the hell out of their rig. I know I have for a long time. That's why I've slowly been chipping away at increasing my ground clearance by relocating the fuel tank, and doing 4-link. However the last piece of the puzzle for a complete flat belly is a clocked transfer case. Bud Built used to have a kit but he had some sealing issues causing leaks, so they stopped selling them. @yota864x4 said that Inchworm used to sell a kit as well but it leaks. Does anyone else want to have a flat belly with a stock t-case? I feel like if we had enough interest, maybe we can get someone to come back to this idea and make a legit kit that resolves the leaking issues.

Anyone have the capability to design something like this?
@eimkeith?


Here are some images I had saved from a thread on Pirate4x4

View attachment 1464 View attachment 1465 View attachment 1466 View attachment 1467
yep, I took measurements and started a file about a year and a half ago when I bought my reduction box; just have had a full dance card since then. In fact, that's when I shifted to the 1" BL approach; so as to clock the case without cutting the floor.

I'm almost certain it's going to have to be a machined billet sort of thing - I don't think that the laser cut plate approach is the way to go.
 
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AssBurns

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#4
What happened to that dude on 4runner.org that answered your post there?
Not sure. He said they were still in the testing phase and would let me know when they are comfortable with production. Never heard back. Maybe it’s time to hit him up on that.

yep, I took measurements and started a file about a year and a half ago when I bought my reduction box; just have had a full dance card since then. In fact, that's when I shifted to the 1" BL approach; so as to clock the case without cutting the floor.

I'm almost certain it's going to have to be a machined billet sort of thing - I don't that laser cut plate approach is the way to go.
I need you to stop what you are doing and finish that file then. :boink:

5CB647D8-D405-4429-ABFA-6BC6004D5379.gif
 
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#6
I bought a normal Trail gear dual adapter. If I were smarter I would be able to figure out some kind of ring to click it. Wont have time till a couple weeks to pull it out of the box and look at it.
 

Theblackflag

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#11
Well I think a lot of us have probably dreamed of having a ton of ground clearance without lifting the hell out of their rig. I know I have for a long time. That's why I've slowly been chipping away at increasing my ground clearance by relocating the fuel tank, and doing 4-link. However the last piece of the puzzle for a complete flat belly is a clocked transfer case. Bud Built used to have a kit but he had some sealing issues causing leaks, so they stopped selling them. @yota864x4 said that Inchworm used to sell a kit as well but it leaks. Does anyone else want to have a flat belly with a stock t-case? I feel like if we had enough interest, maybe we can get someone to come back to this idea and make a legit kit that resolves the leaking issues.

Anyone have the capability to design something like this?
@eimkeith?


Here are some images I had saved from a thread on Pirate4x4

View attachment 1464 View attachment 1465 View attachment 1466 View attachment 1467
If I had a way to get the takeoff dimensions from the stock tcase and trans I have the capability to design it and write the CNC code to have it machined. So if someone has a stock Tcase and trans laying around that wants to grab measurements let me know or @eimkeith if you want to tag team it using your file you already started I'd be up for that too.

It is something that will absolutely need to be machined though, otherwise, I can guarantee it will leak like a mofo because it wont be a truly flat mounting surface. I do know of a machine shop that I have worked at in the past that if we had a few guys interested and we handed them the files and everything on a silver platter they would more than likely do a production run. The major problems I see right now is a very limited market to sell a kit to besides the like 5 or 6 guys on this forum that want it, and sourcing the billet if we go that route for the material. That last issue being the same reason why Marlin isn't making Taco boxes right now, they just can't get the material.
 

RPS1030

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#12
Getting enough spline engagement with a spacer aka machined adapter, in between the mating surfaces will be the next challenge. As well as what’s the driveshaft travel left with essentially moving the t-case rearward about a 1/2” (front longer (plus up) and rear shorter)
 

Theblackflag

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#13
That too. At that point, you're looking at having to source a longer input shaft, the driveshafts should still be fine but if their not the custom driveshafts. Kind of a lot of stuff for 10 to 15 degrees of rotation. The problem I see with all those designs @AssBurns posted is they're super thin, I think that is probably the source of the leaking since they will flex under load and cause the seal to be broken.
 

AssBurns

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#14
Yeah I think the driveshafts will be just fine with the small amount of length change. There is already a ton of spline engagement on the stock shafts.

I agree that one of the reasons there are leaking issues is due to the thin design of the plates (and that they are not a perfectly flat machined surface).

The output shaft portion could be an expensive piece to the puzzle if there is not a production quantity of them being made. IDK how much spline engagement is needed vs how much there is available, as I've never pulled my stock case out. (Maybe @theesotericone can chime in here?)
 

theesotericone

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#15
The output shaft portion could be an expensive piece to the puzzle if there is not a production quantity of them being made. IDK how much spline engagement is needed vs how much there is available, as I've never pulled my stock case out. (Maybe @theesotericone can chime in here?)
The stock output coupling is 1 7/8" long. If your clock ring is 1/2" that wouldn't leave much room for engagement at all. Luckily for you TG already makes a 23 spline to 23 spline output coupling that is longer. I never measured mine before the duals went in but it allows full mating. The problem with TG's dual cases is that you have to pull the tailhousing and beat out the seal and bearing. Then you use TG's coupler to mate the crawl box to the tailhousing. Then the output coupler slides through that.

While that would work for you guys it might be better to find the same size OD 23 to 23 just 1/2" longer. That would allow you to keep the factory seal and bearing in the tailhousing.
 

AssBurns

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#16
The stock output coupling is 1 7/8" long. If your clock ring is 1/2" that wouldn't leave much room for engagement at all. Luckily for you TG already makes a 23 spline to 23 spline output coupling that is longer. I never measured mine before the duals went in but it allows full mating. The problem with TG's dual cases is that you have to pull the tailhousing and beat out the seal and bearing. Then you use TG's coupler to mate the crawl box to the tailhousing. Then the output coupler slides through that.

While that would work for you guys it might be better to find the same size OD 23 to 23 just 1/2" longer. That would allow you to keep the factory seal and bearing in the tailhousing.
Okay so if all I need is a longer coupler from TG, then that's fairly easy. Now someone make a damn clocking ring for me. I'm tired of my t-case hanging 3" below the frame rails. It fucked me on my last trip. I got hung up on this ledge and couldn't shift into gear. If I only had another couple inches :thumbsup:

IMG_0506.JPG
 

theesotericone

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#17
Okay so if all I need is a longer coupler from TG, then that's fairly easy. Now someone make a damn clocking ring for me. I'm tired of my t-case hanging 3" below the frame rails. It fucked me on my last trip. I got hung up on this ledge and couldn't shift into gear. If I only had another couple inches :thumbsup:
IDK if clocked would have helped you here. In one more foot your departure angle was gonna pin you anyway. Maybe we should just bob our rigs? lol
 

AssBurns

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#18
IDK if clocked would have helped you here. In one more foot your departure angle was gonna pin you anyway. Maybe we should just bob our rigs? lol
Nah I would've scraped the bumper, but would've made it. The back tires were already hitting the base of the wall, but hit the t-case and the rear slid to the side as soon as I started to climb.


ORG_DSC02294.JPG ORG_DSC02295.JPG
 
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#19
Well I think a lot of us have probably dreamed of having a ton of ground clearance without lifting the hell out of their rig. I know I have for a long time. That's why I've slowly been chipping away at increasing my ground clearance by relocating the fuel tank, and doing 4-link. However the last piece of the puzzle for a complete flat belly is a clocked transfer case. Bud Built used to have a kit but he had some sealing issues causing leaks, so they stopped selling them. @yota864x4 said that Inchworm used to sell a kit as well but it leaks. Does anyone else want to have a flat belly with a stock t-case? I feel like if we had enough interest, maybe we can get someone to come back to this idea and make a legit kit that resolves the leaking issues.

Anyone have the capability to design something like this?
@eimkeith?


Here are some images I had saved from a thread on Pirate4x4

View attachment 1464 View attachment 1465 View attachment 1466 View attachment 1467
later today i will get some pics of how mine is setup and where it leaks, and then post them up. it would be awesome if there was a better option that would work great yet, and not leak!
 

AssBurns

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#20
later today i will get some pics of how mine is setup and where it leaks, and then post them up. it would be awesome if there was a better option that would work great yet, and not leak!
Awesome! That would be helpful!

Yeah no leaks would be great!!
 
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