CS144 Alternator Upgrade

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
4,920
Location
Yucaipa, CA
#1
First of all, I am getting all my info from THIS THREAD. I am just bringing this info here since people might want some info on it.

The reason for this upgrade is to increase the amps of the alternator while still having a parts store replacement option. Stock was only 80 amps and these are 140 amps. Might be cheaper than having your alternator rebuilt for higher amps, but this one can be found at most auto parts stores. These came on many different vehicles, but I used the 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood as the search vehicle at the parts store.

Some things you'll need.
1) CS144 Alternator (Obviously)
2) Either a GM alternator Pigtail to splice to stock harness, or an adapter (I didn't want to wait for shipping)
3) Either some butt connectors or ability to solder. (I chose to solder and heat shrink over it)
4) Either make a spacer or stack some washers to be roughly .250". (I made a spacer out of an old bushing sleeve)

Now the wiring.
The GM pigtails all have differnt wiring colors depending on which one you get, but the connectors are labelled by letters to make it easy. S, F, L, P.
S = Sense - This is the thickest wire, and connects to the WHITE wire on the Toyota Harness
F = Field/Ignition - This connects to the RED wire on the Toyota Harness.
L = Lamp - This connects to the Yellow Wire on the Toyota Harness.
P = Stator - This doesn't get used and most harnesses don't even have a wire for this.

The main power wire has some small tabs on the terminal end that need to be trimmed off to fit. I just used some Dykes (Diagonal Pliers)

When installing the alternator, you need to put the spacer or washers at the back of the alternator bracket so the alternator sits all the way forward. The GM alternator uses a 6 groove pulley while stock is only a 4 groove pulley. I put the belt on the furthest forward grooves.

I really suck and didn't take any pictures of the process, but it is fairly straight forward. Here are some google pics for you. :flipoff:


1568657532542.png
1568657452919.png
1568657473468.png
 
Joined
Nov 2, 2018
Messages
23
Age
35
Location
Palmdale CA
#2
is that the harness you made in the last pic? If so, kudos...looks like the harness you opted to not wait for. Been wanting to throw more money into my Runner but planning a wedding is financially frustrating. Cant wait til its all over. haha
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
4,920
Location
Yucaipa, CA
#4
is that the harness you made in the last pic? If so, kudos...looks like the harness you opted to not wait for. Been wanting to throw more money into my Runner but planning a wedding is financially frustrating. Cant wait til its all over. haha
No those are just pics of the parts I found online. I was impatient and just bought the pigtail and spliced the wiring on the truck.

I know the feeling about the whole wedding thing. I was broke for like a whole year because of that shit
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
4,920
Location
Yucaipa, CA
#5
Did you have to do anything to get it around your TC gussets or just fuck with it for a while?
I pulled the lower bracket off, then was able to wiggle it in there pretty easily. Took me a minute to figure out how to get that damn bracket off. There was so much gunk up in the spot the bolt was at, that I couldn’t find the bolt haha
 
Joined
Sep 25, 2019
Messages
53
Age
32
#6
FWIW When I did mine I completely rebuilt my big 3 wiring harness at the same time to support the larger power loads.

Also bypassed the ALT fuse now, have a direct wire from ALT to Battery and another wire Battery to main fuse panel.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
4,920
Location
Yucaipa, CA
#7
FWIW When I did mine I completely rebuilt my big 3 wiring harness at the same time to support the larger power loads.

Also bypassed the ALT fuse now, have a direct wire from ALT to Battery and another wire Battery to main fuse panel.
I'm pretty retarded when it comes to electrical stuff. Wanna maybe do a write up or something explaining what the "Big 3 Wiring Upgrade" is all about and what the reason for separate wires from the Alt to the batter and fuse panel?
 
Joined
Sep 25, 2019
Messages
53
Age
32
#9
So the reason I did the big 3 upgrade was more to support the higher output alternator. My alternator shit the bed, I found out about the GM alternator and went that route. Realistically you can probably just upgrade the wire that goes from the alternator to the battery to support the extra amps, but it's said that it basically lets electricity flow better to the system. It's mostly for audio guys with big systems that suck tons of power. But it can also be applicable for people like us running lights, winches and fridges.

Here is a quote from crutchfield:

crutchfield.com said:
The Big Three wiring upgrade
A good, cost-effective improvement is to perform the "Big Three" electrical upgrade. This will vastly improve your vehicle's electrical system, allowing more current to flow easier to all components. This upgrade replaces or augments three key cables in the electrical system with 1/0 or 4 gauge wires: the battery ground to chassis wire, the chassis to engine block wire, and the alternator plus to battery plus wire. This increases your electrical system's current flow capability, ensuring a more consistent voltage under varying demand conditions.

An unfortunate possible side effect of doing the Big Three is that occasionally it only makes your lights dim even worse. This happens because the amplifier is now able to suck juice better from the system through the bigger straw (the new cables).
I know this is the Anti-TW but it's easier to just post a link to my install. Can banned members see uploaded photos?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-01-build-thread.290011/page-25#post-14638541

I took mine a step further and while I was upgrading the big 3, I also did the same with my positive cable to starter as well. I figure more power going to the starter is never a bad thing.

The problem I ran into in the end would be trying to get big cables into the stock fuse box.

So typically it goes + > fuse box through a 120 AMP ALT fuse > ALT.

Instead I have 2 separate runs:

+ > Alternator
and + > OEM fuse panel through the original like 6 gauge wire. That was another reason why I felt more comfortable going direct to ALT because the high output alternator is capable of going over 120 amps, and 6 gauge feels too small for that high amps.

I actually took mine a step further and now have my aux fuse panel hooked up through the old ALT fuse.

Clear as mud?

 

clntg

‘02 4Runner Limited
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
31
#10
Only because I thought this might be useful to some considering higher-output alternators. System sizing isn't a bad pre-step though we are all familiar with how borderline the stock ALT is on T4R. (Every so often I accidentally type T$R, and I always think to myself, "That's about right..." this hobby is a like boat dollars).

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015...d-know-before-using-a-high-output-alternator/

The 'Big Three' (kudos @cynicalrider) is almost always a good idea on any vehicle of our generation (specifically Asian - lower tolerance for corrosion) - at least it won't hurt anything.

Even if you just pull the existing wires and refile the contact surfaces on your stock system you might see improvement in some systems. I had several friends when I lived in MN that just did that and many of their 'brown-outs' minimized. A couple had to rebuild their headlight harness due to corrosion taking the power down to nothing.
 
Last edited:

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 1)

Top Bottom