CV Axle Discussion Thread

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hahaha that is impressive from Autozone! These were Oreilys' lol I was also relying only on my front locker, something is messed up on the connector for the position sensor on my rear elocker. Won't send power to the little motor. Trying to dig around and find my oreilys receipt to see if these were warranty as well...
 

AssBurns

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hahaha that is impressive from Autozone! These were Oreilys' lol I was also relying only on my front locker, something is messed up on the connector for the position sensor on my rear elocker. Won't send power to the little motor. Trying to
Definitely not a heavy footed wheeler, the slower I can go the happier I am. Case in point, I can't stop thinking about dual casing it. Stock spiders and R&P are gone. I have a Spartan locker up front, which really boils down to a super simplified, stronger version of a Detroit (manual hubs let me road drive without it coming into play). 5.29 gears in each diff. Binding and high stress angles are most def the problem. In this case, the axle break came when I was in reverse at full turn lock backing up on an obstacle, and my crossmember stopped the truck against a rock. Ultimately a clearance issue that @eimkeith and I are looking into. The big sticky maxxis tires had no option to spin and i didn't get out of my pedal in time. I'd post the video, but I don't think I can here, its on my truck insta if you want to see it.
sounds like you’ll be fine with RCV’s, just not your wallet. Idk what I’d want first RCV’s or dual case. Both similar costs.
 

eimkeith

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This was the first axle to fail, since you did the LT, right? - if so, I'd continue using the cheap stuff until it starts happening more often, personally. I'm not sure if you'd've spun both fronts or snapped something else in that situation, had you had burly axles..?

Besides - if your spotter had positioned you a bit to the right 30 seconds prior to that, you wouldn't have been in that situation. ;)
 
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This was the first axle to fail, since you did the LT, right? - if so, I'd continue using the cheap stuff until it starts happening more often, personally. I'm not sure if you'd've spun both fronts or snapped something else in that situation, had you had burly axles..?

Besides - if your spotter had positioned you a bit to the right 30 seconds prior to that, you wouldn't have been in that situation. ;)

hahahaha I just appreciate you jumping out to spot me at all, not your fault at all. I blame it all on the crossmember.

sounds like you’ll be fine with RCV’s, just not your wallet. Idk what I’d want first RCV’s or dual case. Both similar costs.
I think I'd be shy of a grand on dual cases. Transfer cases are around $150 here, plate adapter would be most expensive ~$400 for Advance adapters, extend or move crossmember (I would probably make something from farm scrap), and then cost of Shortening/Lengthening drive shafts which I have never done so no clue that cost. I'd assume it be the cheaper route.
 

theesotericone

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hahahaha I just appreciate you jumping out to spot me at all, not your fault at all. I blame it all on the crossmember.


I think I'd be shy of a grand on dual cases. Transfer cases are around $150 here, plate adapter would be most expensive ~$400 for Advance adapters, extend or move crossmember (I would probably make something from farm scrap), and then cost of Shortening/Lengthening drive shafts which I have never done so no clue that cost. I'd assume it be the cheaper route.

I'm 2 grand into RCV's and also 2 grand(maybe a bit more) into my crawlbox.
 
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@theesotericone Do you mind breaking it down to what got you close to 2K? (maybe this is the wrong thread to do it in) These 3rd gen pickups (pre taco) have an RF1A which is pretty common and cheap. The biggest cost I've identified so far will be in the adapter plate.
 
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theesotericone

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@theesotericone Do you mind breaking it down to what got you close to 2K? (maybe this is the wrong thread to do it in) These 3rd gen pickups (pre taco) have an RF1A which is pretty common and cheap. The biggest cost I've identified so far will be in the adapter plate.

TG adapters 700
Marlin Total spline input 200
Rad twin sticks 210
RF1A, bearings and rebuild 300
Tom Woods Shafts 850

If you skip new shafts you can save a lot. I also picked up another stock t-case and kept my old shafts. That way if my crawl box ever needs a rebuild I can pull it and put everything stock back together and still wheel.

You could skip the Marlin Total Spline but most guys that break there cases break them at the the input shaft.
 
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I'm back. I am blowing outer CVs in a constant manner now. "Every time I wheel" constant, I'm at 4 breaks in about 4 months . I am locked in the front and I am also dual cased now. I talked to RCV a few times and they turned me down for axles. My truck uses that flange type inner joint and apparently that is to expensive/time consuming for their shop to tool up for. I have been trying to dig up info using Porsche 930 joints, but haven't found a well of good info past "I heard of someone doing it", and there seems to be some debate over if they can be used for the inner, outer, or inner and outer. Curious if anyone here is more familiar with what can be done and or how to do it?
 

AssBurns

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I'm back. I am blowing outer CVs in a constant manner now. "Every time I wheel" constant, I'm at 4 breaks in about 4 months . I am locked in the front and I am also dual cased now. I talked to RCV a few times and they turned me down for axles. My truck uses that flange type inner joint and apparently that is to expensive/time consuming for their shop to tool up for. I have been trying to dig up info using Porsche 930 joints, but haven't found a well of good info past "I heard of someone doing it", and there seems to be some debate over if they can be used for the inner, outer, or inner and outer. Curious if anyone here is more familiar with what can be done and or how to do it?
Are you running limit straps? You might be over extending the suspension. If you have limit straps, they may have stretched.
 
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I'm in the RCV club and have no regrets. Totally worth the hefty price tag of entry. Granted, I've never busted my stock CVs during normal offroading while my Tundra has been on 40s for a few years now -- I attribute that to not driving like a jackass on obstacles. We'll see if my RCVs hold up to 43s next year though. It's a shame I'll be losing my lifetime warranty on the axles.
 
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Are you running limit straps? You might be over extending the suspension. If you have limit straps, they may have stretched.

I am not running limit straps, that could definitely be my first step. I assume the amount of travel taken out would be based on a maximum angle at the joint, do you know how to find that angle? It doesn't seem to be listed on the box my advanced auto shafts came in, and I didn't see it on a quick google search. I have a pair of low profile droop stops that came with the TC kit that I never put on, so I'll probably try to get those on there before I buy straps, unless theres a reason to go with straps instead. (I might have to do straps anyway because when I first installed, the droop stops didn't contact the a-arm anywhere on the frame face, but I didn't try really hard)

Still interested in any info on building out 930 cvs for this application if anyone knows more about it.
 
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I'm in the RCV club and have no regrets. Totally worth the hefty price tag of entry. Granted, I've never busted my stock CVs during normal offroading while my Tundra has been on 40s for a few years now -- I attribute that to not driving like a jackass on obstacles. We'll see if my RCVs hold up to 43s next year though. It's a shame I'll be losing my lifetime warranty on the axles.
Hopefully yours are better than mine, my RCVs are a fucking joke. Boots are absolute trash, machining tolerances are terrible, and I don't think they actually have as much articulation as they claim due to the giant size of the shaft, which contacts the birfield cage in the outer joint.
 

AssBurns

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I am not running limit straps, that could definitely be my first step. I assume the amount of travel taken out would be based on a maximum angle at the joint, do you know how to find that angle? It doesn't seem to be listed on the box my advanced auto shafts came in, and I didn't see it on a quick google search. I have a pair of low profile droop stops that came with the TC kit that I never put on, so I'll probably try to get those on there before I buy straps, unless theres a reason to go with straps instead. (I might have to do straps anyway because when I first installed, the droop stops didn't contact the a-arm anywhere on the frame face, but I didn't try really hard)

Still interested in any info on building out 930 cvs for this application if anyone knows more about it.
I'd suggest installing the droop stops first. With those you might be able to get away without needing limit straps. Droop your front end and spin the wheels. If you feel any binding then you need to limit the droop further. Make sure you turn the wheels each way too since the angle increases as you turn the wheels. If there is any binding, do what you need to eliminate that.
Idk anything about building custom adapters for 930 inner CV's. Since the stock ones are flanged, you may be able to get them machined to have the same bolt pattern as the 930's. Or maybe pick up some 930 micro stubs and weld the flanges onto the stock stubs. Probably not the best solution, but might be doable.
 

theesotericone

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Hopefully yours are better than mine, my RCVs are a fucking joke. Boots are absolute trash, machining tolerances are terrible, and I don't think they actually have as much articulation as they claim due to the giant size of the shaft, which contacts the birfield cage in the outer joint.

Ummm, they lasted longer then your add tube and shaft. Maybe they aren't a joke. lol
 
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