DIY 1 Ton IFS Long Travel

AssBurns

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#21
I'm wondering if it would be okay to use the stock spindles with some modifications to it instead of whole new machined parts. I know machined is better than reusing the stock stuff, but if everything is build right I don't see any issues with welding to the forged spindle. The benefit of this is A) Cost B) Less work to add brake caliber mounts C) I can build off of the stock spindle arms for more strength I guess.

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Another question for anyone that knows about suspension geometry. Is it worth ditching the UCA mounting angle to eliminate the Anti-Dive or should I keep the Anti-Dive properties in the new design?
 
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madtaco461

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#22
The only issue with going D44 is making custom CV axles. For the sake of simplicity, I'd like to use the tundra axles if possible. Just gonna get RCV to make them for me.

D44 Hubs wouldn't be a bad idea though. I do like unit bearings for the ease of simplicity, but standard rebuildable hubs are cheaper in the long run.
I get lost at CV's. Are RCV still stronger than d44 CVs?
 

madtaco461

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#23
Keep the Anti Dive if you aren't going to run a bypass. Might as well ditch it if you are running a bypass. Just easier to tune your suspension without it. It's there so toyota doesn't need a powerful shock.
 

AssBurns

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#24
I get lost at CV's. Are RCV still stronger than d44 CVs?
Yeah RCV's slogan is "Strongest axles on the planet". Their FAQ on their site states the max tire size for Toyota IFS CV's are 40's. I don't think D44 shafts can handle 40's, plus I don't think there were any D44 CV's. They are all U-joints as far as I know. I definitely don't want u-joints, and I'd like to avoid custom CV's.

Q: What is the max tire size for RCV shafts?
A:
Dana 30 - 35"
Dana 44 - 40"
Toyota solid axle - No limit
Toyota IFS - 40"
Dana 60 - 47"
RCV Big Bell - No limit

https://www.rcvperformance.com/faq
Keep the Anti Dive if you aren't going to run a bypass. Might as well ditch it if you are running a bypass. Just easier to tune your suspension without it. It's there so toyota doesn't need a powerful shock.
Sounds like I'll just build it around bypasses then. I'll do some more research on this subject before I fully commit though. Got plenty of time to decide.
 

theesotericone

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#25
Yeah RCV's slogan is "Strongest axles on the planet". Their FAQ on their site states the max tire size for Toyota IFS CV's are 40's. I don't think D44 shafts can handle 40's, plus I don't think there were any D44 CV's. They are all U-joints as far as I know. I definitely don't want u-joints, and I'd like to avoid custom CV's.

Q: What is the max tire size for RCV shafts?
A:
Dana 30 - 35"
Dana 44 - 40"
Toyota solid axle - No limit
Toyota IFS - 40"
Dana 60 - 47"
RCV Big Bell - No limit

https://www.rcvperformance.com/faq

Sounds like I'll just build it around bypasses then. I'll do some more research on this subject before I fully commit though. Got plenty of time to decide.
Fuck yeah. I'm going to 40's next year. Or not. lol
 

Arcticelf

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#26
I'm wondering if it would be okay to use the stock spindles with some modifications to it instead of whole new machined parts.

Another question for anyone that knows about suspension geometry. Is it worth ditching the UCA mounting angle to eliminate the Anti-Dive or should I keep the Anti-Dive properties in the new design?
With good weld procedure (pre heat and cool down) welding to a casting is fine, and it should be possible to weld enough metal onto the stock spindle to make it work. I hope...

I'm going to ditch the anti-dive, because it causes increased caster under compression, which causes the tire to get closer to the firewall. Hopefully I can do 37s without having to cut the firewall. I'll have to cut the fender core, but those are cracked anyway.
 

AssBurns

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#27
With good weld procedure (pre heat and cool down) welding to a casting is fine, and it should be possible to weld enough metal onto the stock spindle to make it work. I hope...

I'm going to ditch the anti-dive, because it causes increased caster under compression, which causes the tire to get closer to the firewall. Hopefully I can do 37s without having to cut the firewall. I'll have to cut the fender core, but those are cracked anyway.
I’m pretty sure the stock spindles are forged. They seem too thin to be cast.
 

Arcticelf

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#28
I’m pretty sure the stock spindles are forged. They seem too thin to be cast.
I dunno, looking at the surface it looks more like a sand casting than a forging, but pre and post heat doesn't hurt either way.

ETA: I'm taking about 2nd gen spindles, the pictures you posted above do look more like a forging.
 

AssBurns

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#29
I dunno, looking at the surface it looks more like a sand casting than a forging, but pre and post heat doesn't hurt either way.

ETA: I'm taking about 2nd gen spindles, the pictures you posted above do look more like a forging.
Based on the Total Chaos 2nd gen Tacoma spindle gusset page.

https://www.chaosfab.com/accessories/2005-2015-Tacoma-Weld-on-Spindle-Gussets-59698

  • Factory spindles are forged, not cast and gussets can be MIG or TIG welded directly to them.


 

Rapier46

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#30
If you’re gonna go through all this work...cut the frame off like I did, and put in new box frame rails. Then you have a nice clean platform to start with, and can put everything exactly where you want. It was not hard.

Then you can move everything forward a bit to fit big fuckin tires. All new brackets and tabs for mounting, bigger stronger hardware. Be so much easier.
 
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Rapier46

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#31
The only issue with going D44 is making custom CV axles. For the sake of simplicity, I'd like to use the tundra axles if possible. Just gonna get RCV to make them for me.

D44 Hubs wouldn't be a bad idea though. I do like unit bearings for the ease of simplicity, but standard rebuildable hubs are cheaper in the long run.
And d44 shit is for pussies. Just do one ton stuff and don’t ever worry about breaking. These ford unit bearings are beefy as fuck.
 

madtaco461

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#33
If you’re gonna go through all this work...cut the frame off like I did, and put in new box frame rails. Then you have a nice clean platform to start with, and can put everything exactly where you want. It was not hard.

Then you can move everything forward a bit to fit big fuckin tires. All new brackets and tabs for mounting, bigger stronger hardware. Be so much easier.
Lol, probably my truck in 5 yrs
 

Arcticelf

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#35
If you’re gonna go through all this work...cut the frame off like I did, and put in new box frame rails. Then you have a nice clean platform to start with, and can put everything exactly where you want. It was not hard.

Then you can move everything forward a bit to fit big fuckin tires. All new brackets and tabs for mounting, bigger stronger hardware. Be so much easier.
That's quitter talk.

First build all this stuff up off the stock frame, bend or crack it, then go back and re-work the whole proejct around a boxed frame like you should have done the first time.

Seriously though, that's not a bad idea. Got any pictures of that process?
 

Itaro

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#36

Arcticelf

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#37
If you’re gonna go through all this work...cut the frame off like I did, and put in new box frame rails. Then you have a nice clean platform to start with, and can put everything exactly where you want. It was not hard.

Then you can move everything forward a bit to fit big fuckin tires. All new brackets and tabs for mounting, bigger stronger hardware. Be so much easier.
Makes alot of sense for a SAS, I'm less sure if you're keeping the OEM front dif.
 

AssBurns

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#39
If you’re gonna go through all this work...cut the frame off like I did, and put in new box frame rails. Then you have a nice clean platform to start with, and can put everything exactly where you want. It was not hard.

Then you can move everything forward a bit to fit big fuckin tires. All new brackets and tabs for mounting, bigger stronger hardware. Be so much easier.
At this point I don’t think it makes sense to push the sub frame forward any more, when I can keep it where it’s at and just push the wheels forward using the control arms. That’ll help with approach angle more since the diff will still be in the same spot but wheels will be 2” further forward.
 

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