DIY 1 Ton IFS Long Travel

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Centermount may be hard to do. Take a look at this build if you haven't Dualsport Runner. Its difficult because the links are all expired to his photobucket but if you get on photobucket directly Photobucket you can still see them. He used a centermount MK3 supra diff and had to do a bit of a drop bracket. Not really sure how it compared to the stock area so he may not have lost too much, but thats a small diff in comparison. Got this one off a different thread as a talking point but I would recommend getting onto his photos and checking it out. IMG_1098.jpg
 

AssBurns

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Centermount may be hard to do. Take a look at this build if you haven't Dualsport Runner. Its difficult because the links are all expired to his photobucket but if you get on photobucket directly Photobucket you can still see them. He used a centermount MK3 supra diff and had to do a bit of a drop bracket. Not really sure how it compared to the stock area so he may not have lost too much, but thats a small diff in comparison. Got this one off a different thread as a talking point but I would recommend getting onto his photos and checking it out. View attachment 13107
Definitely some inspiration from that build. I never thought about going directly to photobucket to view the pictures. I've never actually seen the actual pics of that build. It's always been the blurred out PB pics in the thread. Thanks for sharing those links man!

The basic idea of what he did vs what I am doing is about the same for the most part. Some of the things that I am going to do a little different from his is:
- 1 ton or equivalent differential. More strength = bigger tires and more HP without going kaboom!
- 1 ton or equivalent hubs. Longer lasting, and overall more strength by having larger axle options (35+ spline).
- 1 ton or equivalent steering box. Better steering capacity, longer life, and more strength.
- I will be pushing the axle forward, so pair that with a low pinion, and a rear sump oil pan, I can potentially have a larger differential with equal or better ground clearance (less of a drop bracket). Pushing it forward will also give me more room for bigger tires and better approach angle.

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I think I figured out that I might as well center mount rather than try to use the AAM 9.25" off to the side. I got a CAD file for the 9.25" yesterday, and after taking measurements and seeing where it can fit, I don't think that diff is the best candidate anymore for the following reasons.

- It's huge! I knew that, but the housing itself is just very large and bulky, especially with it being hi-pinion. The clamshell bolting ring makes the overall height pretty tall (About 11" tall. Stock is roughly 9"), and the bolt ring is offset further to the passenger side whereas our 7.5" is offset to the drivers side. This causes even further interference with the oil sump (whether its front or rear sump). This causes the need to push the entire axle either further to the drivers side or down under the sump. Both of those options suck. Pushing it further to the drivers side means shorter CV's which ends up being shorter control arms. That's a waste. No way i'm doing that. The other option is to go under the sump, but that means I'll have a HUGE drop bracket type lift for the housing to clear everything. I know I'll need to drop the diff a little, but I don't want it to be THAT much. So the AAM 9.25" is probably not a great choice.
- Being high pinion (good for strength, bad for packaging) means I have to push the whole diff down under the trans and engine sump, and if most of the diff is below the pinion, that means that the diff is going to hang WAY lower than I want. Same issue as above, but just another factor as to why. Even if the diff housing was smaller, the high pinion makes it hard to fit a diff up into the bulkhead neatly.

So I have come to the conclusion that I need to go low pinion, and the only two decent candidates for that is the Ford/Sterling 9.75" IRS diff or pay big money for a Ford 9". The 9" would be a better option because of the following reasons:
- Very low pinion means I can tuck the housing up further with the pinion being at almost the lowest point.
- Housing size seems to be smaller (both height and total width)
- Ability to have a 10" ring gear for further strength.
- 3rd pinion bearing means less deflection and more strength.
- HUGE aftermarket support. Probably the most supported differential platform available

The problem is a ford 9" is stupid expensive to get a complete IFS housing and 3rd member. For the moment I am going to pursue the Ford/Sterling 9.75" IRS until I can either afford a 9" or come up with a better option.
 

AssBurns

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An ifs 9" is like $4k right?
$2400 for the housing and stub shafts alone. Once you get the differential with lockers, gears, installation and mounting brackets it is like $5000. Even if I can do my own 3rd member for a cheaper cost, it's still super expensive at $2500 for the housing and brackets.
 

madtaco461

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$2400 for the housing and stub shafts alone. Once you get the differential with lockers, gears, installation and mounting brackets it is like $5000. Even if I can do my own 3rd member for a cheaper cost, it's still super expensive at $2500 for the housing and brackets.

3rd, locked and geared there is nothing around that. Those housings seem very overpriced with axles
 

Slim-Whitey

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Send money!

The sad game we play when we do things that aren't normally done.

It's why all my shit is junkyard sourced.

I have a really dumbfuck idea that came to mind but I know if I say it and it's as dumbfuck as it sounds I'll hear it for the next 6 quadrillion years.
 

AssBurns

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3rd, locked and geared there is nothing around that. Those housings seem very overpriced with axles
Well once you add in an $1000 35 Spline ARB, it gets close to that price. Anywhere from $2000-$2500. That's if I buy new. If I buy a used I can save a little bit, but finding a used big bearing diff capable of 35 spline is not as likely as finding a 31 or 28 spline.
Is the steering rack gonna be replace with a HD??;))
Not gonna do a steering rack (most likely) to save on cost. Going with a saginaw box with swing set steering
Full Hydro, lol. Or you can break your wrist.
The plan is swing set steering with hydro-assist down the line (or right away if I can afford it)
The sad game we play when we do things that aren't normally done.

It's why all my shit is junkyard sourced.

I have a really dumbfuck idea that came to mind but I know if I say it and it's as dumbfuck as it sounds I'll hear it for the next 6 quadrillion years.
Let's hear it. It may be dumb, but doesn't mean I wont take any ideas from it.
 
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Thanks for sharing those links man!
No problem. Always been one of my favorite builds. Especially that bonkers Watts link rear end.

I cant remember if it came from this forum or somewhere else but there is a guy who ran a swing steer setup with hydro assist on a 1st gen tundra. Kicking myself for not remembering the guys name on Instagram. Looked like a solid setup although he was 2wd and it looked like the packaging would be difficult with the front DS. I guess you could go forward mount if your running custom spindles anyway
 

madtaco461

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No problem. Always been one of my favorite builds. Especially that bonkers Watts link rear end.

I cant remember if it came from this forum or somewhere else but there is a guy who ran a swing steer setup with hydro assist on a 1st gen tundra. Kicking myself for not remembering the guys name on Instagram. Looked like a solid setup although he was 2wd and it looked like the packaging would be difficult with the front DS. I guess you could go forward mount if your running custom spindles anyway

http://instagr.am/p/BoqJw96Fjqm/
 

AssBurns

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No problem. Always been one of my favorite builds. Especially that bonkers Watts link rear end.

I cant remember if it came from this forum or somewhere else but there is a guy who ran a swing steer setup with hydro assist on a 1st gen tundra. Kicking myself for not remembering the guys name on Instagram. Looked like a solid setup although he was 2wd and it looked like the packaging would be difficult with the front DS. I guess you could go forward mount if your running custom spindles anyway
Cool! I haven't seen that one yet! Definitely the right idea of what I plan on doing but I will have the pivots swing at the same axis that the steering arms/knuckle pivots at. That helps further eliminate bump steer. I'm sure that setup works well, but with the swingers swinging at an axis opposite of the steering axis, the inner and outer tie-rods move at different arcs. The further you turn, the more the bump steer gets worse.

Yeah I'll probably have to go with front mounted steering because of the diff and driveshaft, but I might be able to have the swingers over the pinion. Not really sure yet. In the rear it's less likely to get in the way, but there are more things to work around. Also less room for a steering box.
 

madtaco461

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Cool! I haven't seen that one yet! Definitely the right idea of what I plan on doing but I will have the pivots swing at the same axis that the steering arms/knuckle pivots at. That helps further eliminate bump steer. I'm sure that setup works well, but with the swingers swinging at an axis opposite of the steering axis, the inner and outer tie-rods move at different arcs. The further you turn, the more the bump steer gets worse.

Yeah I'll probably have to go with front mounted steering because of the diff and driveshaft, but I might be able to have the swingers over the pinion. Not really sure yet. In the rear it's less likely to get in the way, but there are more things to work around. Also less room for a steering box.

Those arms are crazy long doubt he has any more bump steer than the crap stock rack. I get what you are talking about, but he can only mount vertical because there is a steering box right there
 

AssBurns

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Okay I found some other potential options here. Dutchman makes an auliminum ford 9" housing for half the cost of the F9 and it's only 1/4" wider than the F9. There is even an inboard brake option which would actually be super cool, but it's more cost and more long term cost and parts availability when it comes to replacing parts. I think I'd go with saving the money and stay outboard.

The cool thing about the Dutchman is that since it's only 1/4" wider than the F9, I can always switch to the F9 down the line if I really wanted with practically no ill effects. It also means that I would have a stronger diff option than any of the other diff options I've looked at, and since it's narrow it means more travel. It can also mean that I can have front and rear diffs using the exact same parts if wanted. Kinda cool to think about.

check it out.
https://dutchmanaxles.com/irs-housing-alloy-axle-package-cv-style.html


index.php




https://dutchmanaxles.com/irs-housing-axle-package-cv-style-1.html
index.php
 

AssBurns

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Figuring out which brakes to go with. I'll probably redrill the Ford unit bearing to 8 x 6.5" since the Ford pattern is 8 x 170mm so that there are more options for wheels. Still not completely convinced, but leaning that direction.
If I go with redrilled hubs, I'll probably go with the '07-10" GM 3500 rotors and calipers. I think they are actually still the same specs as the earlier generations models too. I am thinking this generation specifically because the rotors have a 1/2" less offset, so more room for knuckles to be designed without worrying about the rotor limiting options.
If I go with stock ford hubs, I'll probably just use whatever came on the 05+ Super Duty axles.
 

Slim-Whitey

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FYI: the chev 2500/3500 AAM 11.5 is the same as a Dodge AAM 11.5, with a slightly lighter housing and tubes.

They are both simply an updated (disc brake, flange input, etc) Corporate 14 bolt full float.

If that helps at all.
 
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Okay I found some other potential options here. Dutchman makes an auliminum ford 9" housing for half the cost of the F9 and it's only 1/4" wider than the F9. There is even an inboard brake option which would actually be super cool, but it's more cost and more long term cost and parts availability when it comes to replacing parts. I think I'd go with saving the money and stay outboard.

The cool thing about the Dutchman is that since it's only 1/4" wider than the F9, I can always switch to the F9 down the line if I really wanted with practically no ill effects. It also means that I would have a stronger diff option than any of the other diff options I've looked at, and since it's narrow it means more travel. It can also mean that I can have front and rear diffs using the exact same parts if wanted. Kinda cool to think about.

check it out.
https://dutchmanaxles.com/irs-housing-alloy-axle-package-cv-style.html


index.php




https://dutchmanaxles.com/irs-housing-axle-package-cv-style-1.html
index.php
Lol saw your post on Facebook in pirate page and didn’t realize it was you. Went and got the link to post here only to realize your the same person :rofl:
 

AssBurns

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Just placing for notes. Probably going to go with GM 2500/3500 brakes since it has the right lug pattern I want. 8 x 6.5". Powerstop seems to be a decent brake option for a good cost, so I will probably go that route. If they suck, I'll just go with Centric or something when these wear out. Only $207 for rotors, pads and calipers. Not bad.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...nHjuVMhLncIaTSfUyfAfSdPjKDtMlN92LxfiLatjInrAx
 
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