Fabricators Corner

[Itaro]

Here we go ninja : https://www.offroadaddiction.net/jeep_universal_swing_out_latch_assembly_synergy_mfg

 

[Slim-Whitey]

Here we go ninja : https://www.offroadaddiction.net/jeep_universal_swing_out_latch_assembly_synergy_mfg

Oh shit I gotta bookmark that.

 

[4runner DOA]

Okay, the best latching system I’ve seen is the one pelfreybilt used on their swingouts. I believe synergy manufacturing made them because I saw it a couple years ago on polyperformance.com but it’s no longer listed anywhere. 4xinnovations makes a similar one here: https://www.4xinnovations.com/Swing-Out-Tire-Carrier-Latch-Assembly_p_110.html

They also have a hinge assembly that looks pretty solid. I think we need to retrofit @4runner DOA ’s swingout with this latch

We will eventually. I've got a locking pin I need to weld on some day too. The whole bumper needs to come off and have some gussets thrown on so it stops wobbling so much.

 

[85straight]

Here we go ninja : https://www.offroadaddiction.net/jeep_universal_swing_out_latch_assembly_synergy_mfg

I have the double shear hinge from 4x already, I cheaped out on their latch. But now I’ll probably or one from them, $68 is not too bad. https://www.4xinnovations.com/Swing-Out-Tire-Carrier-LatchAssembly_p_110.html
https://www.4xinnovations.com/Swing-Out-Tire-Carrier-Hinge-Assembly_p_109.html

 

[85straight]

And my prints I’ll be following to a T

 

[Itaro]

And my prints I’ll be following to a T
View attachment 19320

Tire is going on the drive’s side? It won’t make a big difference but I have the spare on the passenger side that’s where the spindle is. I have a slightly better view of what’s directly behind me. At least I can tell if the driver tailgating me is paying attention or not.

It’s also marginally more convenient that way

Edit: Or is that sketch from the inside?

Any case you’ll need something like this too: https://www.4xinnovations.com/Tire-Carrier-Wheel-Mount-Plate-and-Support-Gusset_p_163.html

 

[85straight]

Tire is going on the drive’s side? It won’t make a big difference but I have the spare on the passenger side that’s where the spindle is. I have a slightly better view of what’s directly behind me. At least I can tell if the driver tailgating me is paying attention or not.

It’s also marginally more convenient that way

Edit: Or is that sketch from the inside?

Any case you’ll need something like this too: https://www.4xinnovations.com/Tire-Carrier-Wheel-Mount-Plate-and-Support-Gusset_p_163.html

Spindle will be on driver side, so mounting the tire closer to the spindle. Then more visibility if I look over my shoulder. Visibility is kinda insignificant though cuz the back of the truck is packed with enough crap I can’t see anyways lol

 

[85straight]

Progress so far. Since the bumper is not plumb and a tube I had to make some pieces to fix that and still provide some strength


Then burned on the spindle tube to the main horizontal member with a little preload in it to compensate for the weight

left a little extra on the end till I get the latch assembly and figure out how I’m going to go about that

 

[Slim-Whitey]

Today, I went out and looked at my half door.

Took a reeeeeal good look at it.

Then walked inside. Nope. Not today..

 

[Alex Fleming]

Here is where I ended up on these. I installed one on the truck before I ran out of wire. Seem to be strong. Can pick the whole thing up from the front corner with a hi-lift and it deflects a little bit. Not a problem though, kinda planning on these getting pushed up into the rocker a bit for a little extra clearance.

 

[AssBurns]

Here is where I ended up on these. I installed one on the truck before I ran out of wire. Seem to be strong. Can pick the whole thing up from the front corner with a hi-lift and it deflects a little bit. Not a problem though, kinda planning on these getting pushed up into the rocker a bit for a little extra clearance.

View attachment 19454

View attachment 19453

View attachment 19455

One thing I would suggest is some gussets on those frame plates. That is a lot of leverage acting on that tube. Some gussets will help a lot with the deflection.

 

[Alex Fleming]

One thing I would suggest is some gussets on those frame plates. That is a lot of leverage acting on that tube. Some gussets will help a lot with the deflection.

I have some triangles cut up and ready to slap on when I get some wire! Thanks Steven.

 

[Arcticelf]

Laying out tubes and bending for the engine cage. Anyone have any tips for 3 dimensional bends? That is: bend on one plane, rotate 20 degrees, bend, rotate back 110 degrees, bend.

 

[MyNewToy]

Laying out tubes and bending for the engine cage. Anyone have any tips for 3 dimensional bends? That is: bend on one plane, rotate 20 degrees, bend, rotate back 110 degrees, bend.View attachment 21605

Yeah I do it for handrails all the time. I just cut the pipe so I can rotate it exactly where I want it and weld it back together.

If that's not an option like on rollcages. you need one of these or something like it. Remember It's not going to be 110* on the second bend your going to have to add or subtract the 20* from the first bend depending on which way you turn it.

 

[AssBurns]

Laying out tubes and bending for the engine cage. Anyone have any tips for 3 dimensional bends? That is: bend on one plane, rotate 20 degrees, bend, rotate back 110 degrees, bend.View attachment 21605

Nope. I haven’t found a good solution for this and hope you find one. What makes things extra difficult is when you have multiple angles and a notch that needs to fit along another bend. I just get it close then hit the rest with a grinder.

 

[Arcticelf]

Nope. I haven’t found a good solution for this and hope you find one. What makes things extra difficult is when you have multiple angles and a notch that needs to fit along another bend. I just get it close then hit the rest with a grinder.

with HREW I just use the weld line and rotate based on that, but with DOM I'm just drawing the line then bending...

 

[Arcticelf]

Yeah I do it for handrails all the time. I just cut the pipe so I can rotate it exactly where I want it and weld it back together.

If that's not an option like on rollcages. you need one of these or something like it. Remember It's not going to be 110* on the second bend your going to have to add or subtract the 20* from the first bend depending on which way you turn it.
View attachment 21606

I've thought about that, but it's going to get complicated quickly when the bender isn't level, and the pipe its on is now off at some funny angle.

 

[MyNewToy]

I've thought about that, but it's going to get complicated quickly when the bender isn't level, and the pipe its on is now off at some funny angle.

yeah the bender has to be level, our's is bolted to the concrete.
If you get it close, you can get it red hot with a torch and tweak it a little.

 

[AssBurns]

with HREW I just use the weld line and rotate based on that, but with DOM I'm just drawing the line then bending...

I think I misread your post. I was thinking you were talking about measuring how much to bend with a tube at a compound angle. Say from the side view it needs a 60° bend, and front the front view it needs to be a 30° bend. How much does it actually have to be bent? 63.4°
For me it has always been easier to bend a little under, test it, then bend again as needed. Sorta difficult to figure it out in the garage unless I am unaware of an easy formula for this.

Side View


Front View


Corner view

 

[Arcticelf]

I think I misread your post. I was thinking you were talking about measuring how much to bend with a tube at a compound angle. Say from the side view it needs a 60° bend, and front the front view it needs to be a 30° bend. How much does it actually have to be bent? 63.4°
For me it has always been easier to bend a little under, test it, then bend again as needed. Sorta difficult to figure it out in the garage unless I am unaware of an easy formula for this.

Side View
View attachment 21645

Front View
View attachment 21644

Corner view
View attachment 21643

So it's that problem. Then add on two more bends to the tube, so that the bend you showed above has to be clocked correctly relative to them.