Flying Burrito Runner

[AssBurns]

Got the Kings installed today. Drove it to my parents house for dinner and they seem to drive pretty nice. Even with the clickers on the softest setting they seem firm in a good way. I was a little worried they would be too soft and have to run then maxed out or have to tune them. Looking forward to getting out in the dirt (maybe tomorrow).
Also installed a trans cooler. Pretty straight forward except two trips to the store. 1) I needed more hose than came in the kit, 2) the barbed fitting that I bought to connect the lines was 5/16” in a 3/8” packaging. That was kind of annoying to say the least. Trans should stay happy now. I ran it in series with the stock trans cooler in the radiator for extra cooling ability. Not worried about pink milkshake since it’s a brand new radiator.

 

[AssBurns]

Took the FBR out this evening. Very surprised how it handled. Different from what I was expecting honestly. Did pretty well. Even with the clickers all the way soft it felt pretty firm. Firmer than I like on the smaller stuff but handles well in the bigger stuff. If I feel I need to soften them up after some more wheeling I’ll try lowering the PSI to 150 to see if that is an easy change. I have them at 200psi now.

 

[4runner DOA]

Took the FBR out this evening. Very surprised how it handled. Different from what I was expecting honestly. Did pretty well. Even with the clickers all the way soft it felt pretty firm. Firmer than I like on the smaller stuff but handles well in the bigger stuff. If I feel I need to soften them up after some more wheeling I’ll try lowering the PSI to 150 to see if that is an easy change. I have them at 200psi now.

200? Wow. I think we set my ads at like 160 or 170. They were stock 120-130 and it was too soft.

 

[AssBurns]

200? Wow. I think we set my ads at like 160 or 170. They were stock 120-130 and it was too soft.

I’ll try 170psi and see how they do. The higher the PSI the less prone they are to cavitation. I ran my bilsteins at like 220 or something like that.

 

[AssBurns]

Today I was driving and when I got out I smelled hot coolant, so I pulled out the OBDII reader and monitored the temps while I was driving. The temps were getting up to 210°. So when I got home I topped off the coolant and it was almost a gallon low on fluid. Weird. I haven’t noticed any leaks or white smoke on start ups. Weird that the fluid was low with no signs of leaks or head gasket issues. What could be the issue?


Also since I bought the rig I was having intermittent issues with the hatch actually opening when pulling the handle. Then the other day I couldn’t get it to open at all even though I could hear the lock mechanism engaging and disengaging. So I pulled the cover off and found that the mechanism for the hatch handle was full of grime and was just sticking. Just lubed everything with some WD-40 and viola everything works perfect and smooth how it should.

 

[4runner DOA]

Today I was driving and when I got out I smelled hot coolant, so I pulled out the OBDII reader and monitored the temps while I was driving. The temps were getting up to 210°. So when I got home I topped off the coolant and it was almost a gallon low on fluid. Weird. I haven’t noticed any leaks or white smoke on start ups. Weird that the fluid was low with no signs of leaks or head gasket issues. What could be the issue?


Also since I bought the rig I was having intermittent issues with the hatch actually opening when pulling the handle. Then the other day I couldn’t get it to open at all even though I could hear the lock mechanism engaging and disengaging. So I pulled the cover off and found that the mechanism for the hatch handle was full of grime and was just sticking. Just lubed everything with some WD-40 and viola everything works perfect and smooth how it should.

Head gasket. Sounds like you're eating coolant. You do a leak down test yet? Check cylinder pressure?

Edit: Water pump? Thermostat? Usually losing coolant means head gasket failure, but if you're overheating you're probably dumping fluid out the reservoir too.

 

[AssBurns]

Head gasket. Sounds like you're eating coolant. You do a leak down test yet? Check cylinder pressure?

Edit: Water pump? Thermostat? Usually losing coolant means head gasket failure, but if you're overheating you're probably dumping fluid out the reservoir too.

Haven’t done any tests yet. Just figured this out today and haven’t had time to mess with it.
Leak down test sounds like a good idea for a start.
I think it’s only overheating due to low coolant. I don’t think it’s low coolant due to overheating. Only things I can think of is a slow leak or head gasket.

 

[clearock]

Today I was driving and when I got out I smelled hot coolant, so I pulled out the OBDII reader and monitored the temps while I was driving. The temps were getting up to 210°. So when I got home I topped off the coolant and it was almost a gallon low on fluid. Weird. I haven’t noticed any leaks or white smoke on start ups. Weird that the fluid was low with no signs of leaks or head gasket issues. What could be the issue.

U should check ur oil level and c if said in increasing, oil can absorb a lot of coolant... The 5vz has issues with developing cracks in the head/heads, depending on where it can develop diff issues, one of which can be disappearing coolant. The cracking is usually up inside one of the valve cambers/pockets (the area up above where the valve stem guides are). When I rebuild a 5vz I take 3 heads with me to the machine shop so they don't have to call and tell me one of my heads has cracking.

 

[AssBurns]

U should check ur oil level and c if said in increasing, oil can absorb a lot of coolant... The 5vz has issues with developing cracks in the head/heads, depending on where it can develop diff issues, one of which can be disappearing coolant. The cracking is usually up inside one of the valve cambers/pockets (the area up above where the valve stem guides are). When I rebuild a 5vz I take 3 heads with me to the machine shop so they don't have to call and tell me one of my heads has cracking.

Good idea. I haven't checked the oil yet.

Yeah my other 4runner had a cracked head. When it first happened it was just a light leak into the exhaust manifold and would go away as the motor warmed up. Eventually it started to leak into cylinder #3 only when it was cold. By the time I ditched the motor it was killing spark plugs every few hundred miles. Really hoping I don't have that same luck with this motor lol. So far it doesn't burn white smoke or smell like burnt coolant on start ups so I at least have that going for me.

Hoping it ends up being a minor leak that I just can't find yet.

 

[Alex Fleming]

When my truck ate coolant it never smoked. It would sometimes misfire for about 3-4 seconds on start-up. Then left it to sit for almost 2 weeks and hydro locked it had so much coolant in one cylinder. Blew it out, poured a stop leak in my coolant. It has never leaked again!! I have even done a coolant flush since and still no coolant burn or anything.

 

[AssBurns]

When my truck ate coolant it never smoked. It would sometimes misfire for about 3-4 seconds on start-up. Then left it to sit for almost 2 weeks and hydro locked it had so much coolant in one cylinder. Blew it out, poured a stop leak in my coolant. It has never leaked again!! I have even done a coolant flush since and still no coolant burn or anything.

Impressive. I tried that on the BeerRunner and it sorta helped the first time around, but didn't do shit the second time around. It was already too far gone I think. It got pretty bad where on super cold mornings (below freezing) I would have to pull the spark plug to get it to start. Even then it would take a bit to actually get started.

 

[AssBurns]

I think I found part of the reason I was losing coolant. Ever since I swapped radiators to the 2.4L radiator the cap was touching the hood even with some light massaging to the hood for more clearance. Turns out the movement of the hood on the cap was causing the cap to loosen up majority of the way and become very loose with no seal.

I massaged the hood a little more and bend the tabs on the radiator cap to hold onto the radiator a little firmer. It wasn't a tight fit like the stock radiator and cap was. So far this seemed to have solved the low coolant issues. I need to watch it a little more to verify this is the only problem. I am still getting a little warm with the A/C on though. When sitting in traffic or going up a long grade I am seeing the temps hit up to 210° and regularly bounce up to 205°. This is definitely on the higher side so not sure if its the smaller radiator or if it's something else. I might just do a water pump and timing belt replacement since it's probably due at 180k miles on the motor.


A couple weeks ago we went out to Johnson Valley for a poker run. It was a 40 mile loop and we had a great time camping, boozing and wheeling. It was the first trip out with the rear King shocks. They definitely outperformed the little 5100's I had before. I was surprised how hot those fuckers actually got being 2.5 w/ Resi. Now I understand how I got those 5100's hot enough to boil the oil and melt the rubber boot and seals lol. I need to get some resi's for the front shocks since I definitely noticed some shock fade with them being IFP 2.5's. I'll hit up Icon to see if I can just purchase a resi kit for these old Donahoe Racing shocks.

 

[AssBurns]

Another thing I've been dealing with on this rig is the OBDII Monitoring never completed it's cycle so I've been delaying smogging it for the upcoming smog that is required. It was only completing 3 out of the 7 monitors. Replaced all the fuses in the fuse boxes since more than a few of them had the wrong size fuse in each of the slots. Sketch!

Drove it to work this morning and it completed all the monitoring. Gonna go get it smogged and update registration this week.

 

[AssBurns]

Replaced the steering rack today. I really don’t like doing those, and I feel bad for you guys with 4th gens. That shit sucks. After my 5th time doing it and it still sucks each time.
Also couldn’t use my lift since it’s got a vehicle on it, so I had to do things the old fashioned way like you peasants…
I thought my inner tie rods were bent since my alignment was all outta whack after last wheeling trip. Inner tie rods look good so not sure what bent. Usually outers aren’t the weak link unless I bent my spindles. I still haven’t welded on the gussets I got. Waiting to finish Roberts truck so I can use the lift and press in new wheel studs so I can run my 1/2” wheel spacers I picked up.

Still need to get the passenger side axle seal and wheel bearing done, along with both rear brakes (another fun job). I have a set of rock sliders that need to be painted and welded on as well. Been too busy to knock that out.

Hoping to get some 5.29 gears in here soon too. Robert does gears so I’m gonna have him work on that for me.

 

[Itaro]

Replaced the steering rack today. I really don’t like doing those, and I feel bad for you guys with 4th gens. That shit sucks. After my 5th time doing it and it still sucks each time.
Also couldn’t use my lift since it’s got a vehicle on it, so I had to do things the old fashioned way like you peasants…
I thought my inner tie rods were bent since my alignment was all outta whack after last wheeling trip. Inner tie rods look good so not sure what bent. Usually outers aren’t the weak link unless I bent my spindles. I still haven’t welded on the gussets I got. Waiting to finish Roberts truck so I can use the lift and press in new wheel studs so I can run my 1/2” wheel spacers I picked up.

Still need to get the passenger side axle seal and wheel bearing done, along with both rear brakes (another fun job). I have a set of rock sliders that need to be painted and welded on as well. Been too busy to knock that out.

Hoping to get some 5.29 gears in here soon too. Robert does gears so I’m gonna have him work on that for me.

Your spindles aren’t bent, they only go up and down

 

[AssBurns]

Your spindles aren’t bent, they only go up and down

 

[AssBurns]

Had a free morning today so I knocked out the spindle gussets and wheel studs.
Spindles didn’t appear to be bent so not sure why my alignment was out of whack. Either way, it’s all good now. I was rubbing my tires on the spindles and UCA’s pretty bad when I broke my sway bar end link last trip out to Joshua Tree. I replaced the end link and added the 1/2” wheel spacers, and now I can rail the corners without rubbing the shit out of things.
Between that and the steering being replaced it’s driving much better again. Should be all set for camping next weekend. I’d like to get the wheel bearing, axle seal and rear brakes done if I can find the time. Luckily I already have an axle with fresh bearings on it, so should be pretty easy to swap out the axle, and bleed the brakes.

 

[4runner DOA]

Had a free morning today so I knocked out the spindle gussets and wheel studs.
Spindles didn’t appear to be bent so not sure why my alignment was out of whack. Either way, it’s all good now. I was rubbing my tires on the spindles and UCA’s pretty bad when I broke my sway bar end link last trip out to Joshua Tree. I replaced the end link and added the 1/2” wheel spacers, and now I can rail the corners without rubbing the shit out of things.
Between that and the steering being replaced it’s driving much better again. Should be all set for camping next weekend. I’d like to get the wheel bearing, axle seal and rear brakes done if I can find the time. Luckily I already have an axle with fresh bearings on it, so should be pretty easy to swap out the axle, and bleed the brakes.

Nice. I'm down to the Schrader valve that I'm waiting on to show up and alignment. I'll do the front brakes real fast before I put the wheels back on.

 

[Notcrow-of-judgement]

Bump

 

[AssBurns]

Nice. I'm down to the Schrader valve that I'm waiting on to show up and alignment. I'll do the front brakes real fast before I put the wheels back on.

Are you going to buy extras in case that ever happens again? If you need it in a pinch, you can probably get one from KarTek in Corona.