It's a 30 min fix, but I get that it's like an hour and a half round trip to town depending where you're at in JV.
Flying Burrito Runner
- Thread starter AssBurns
- Start date
It's a 30 min fix, but I get that it's like an hour and a half round trip to town depending where you're at in JV.
30 minutes if you have the tools and parts. I'm not worried about the difficulty, but more about the convenience of doing it at home rather than with limited time and tools.
EDIT: Also since the brake shoes were soaked in brake fluid, might as well replace the brake shoes on both sides while I'm at it. Again, more time effective and convenient to do it at home.
Gotta take the shoes off to replace the cylinder so they would be getting replaced at the same time regardless. I get it, but I never wheel without tools either and I have no issues getting shit done in the dirt if it means finishing a trip or getting home safely.
I usually have no issues getting dirty and fixing things on the trail. Done it many many times. Sometimes its worth fixing at home. A quick trail fix is all I needed to continue my trip and get home comfortably.
I was thinking about getting some caps for the lines in the event this happened again and it couldn't be resolved by something as simple as some small vice grips. Capping a line would at least get you to the nearest road for a tow truck.
Itaro
Seriously, FJB
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And a premier AAA membership
I already got that. Luckily I’ve only had to use it a few times. Once for my motorcycle back in the day, once when I blew my rear diff, and once when my coil pack went out. It was pouring rain and it was easier to just get it towed home than fix it at my office.And a premier AAA membership
Itaro
Seriously, FJB
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I have one that’s never been used. @4runner DOA isn’t breaking his shit as much as I expected
Replaced the rear brake wheel cylinder as well as brake shoes. It took me longer to clean the grime and oil out of the drum than it did to actually install the new brakes. It was so built up with gunk that I used a putty knife to scrape out the bulk of the crap, then used degreaser and brake cleaner to get the rest cleaned up.
Went out to Ridgecrest over the New Years weekend. Other than freezing my balls off half the time, it was a great time. I am looking forward to getting back out there again at some point. Most of the group was long travel (Broncos, F150, JeepSpeed, and high end Baja Bugs) and a few Jeeps. With good communication, wide open desert for great visibility, and everyone knowing where we were going, it was a blast. It was a good time being able to drive fast for long periods of time with a group like this. Plus the whoops aren't too big in a lot of the areas so I was actually able to stay on top of the whoops most of the time if I kept the pace above 40mph. I definitely have some things to comb through after this trip. Hood latch broke, front fender cracked by the headlight and is noisy as hell. Also looks like I need to replace the rear axle seal again. I just changed the bearings and seals like 6 or so months ago. Maybe it is a bent axle or something.
Maybe you just need to get the beer runner finished and stop banging on the overland rig.
Nah, it's too much fun to slow down. The BeerRunner will probably be another year before its done if I'm lucky. Might as well have fun and enjoy my desert trips in the meantime.Maybe you just need to get the beer runner finished and stop banging on the overland rig.
did u flip the bearing retainer the seal rides on when u replaced the said to give the seal more surface area to ride on vs the OEM way with the beveled by the seal...
I didn't do them myself. A buddy gave me the axles with fresh bearings on them because I helped him with his truck. I'd have to check to see if that's the case. I did that on my other 4Runner and it worked well.
Finally had a chance to work on the 4runner this weekend in anticipation for an upcoming trip. I had a lot of little stuff that I've put on the back burner for the past 3-6 months due to being busy with work, finishing Roberts truck, and life in general. Finally had a mostly free weekend and decided to tackle a few things.
Started with installing SPC upper control arms. Biggest benefit to these is the added adjustability for caster and camber. I was able to add almost another 4° of caster and a little bit of negative camber. It drives noticeably better in the corners and the return to center is improved as well.
Replaced the axle seal on the drivers side. Hoping this time it holds up otherwise I'll need to swap bearings and flip the collar around for a better seal surface. Pretty frustrating, but hoping I just had some shitty seals the first time around. When I fixed the other side in Dec, it seems to be holding up fine. Hoping this side holds up too. I replaced the brake shoes while I was at it due to them being oil soaked. Wish I had a damn parts cleaner. Cleaning gear oil soaked everything sucks.
When we were out in Ridgecrest my whip mount that was attached to the spoiler finally started to give out. The spoiler just couldn't hold the weight of the heavy Buggy Whip. I made a bracket that I then rivetted onto the roof near a seam. In the pics I had buttonhead allen screws holding it on but I couldn't get the back two nuts on the underside because of some internal sheet metal layering that was too big of a pain in the ass to work around. Rivets should hold up fine along with the threaded 1/2" nut and washer holding it all together.
Took it for a test drive and blew out (I think) a seal on the trans torque converter pump. I'll pull the trans this weekend to fix the seal and inspect things a bit. Since I have the trans out, I'll be swapping in a higher stall speed torque converter. Stock is about 2200rpm and the one I ordered is about 2700rpm stall speed. I thought a bit more would be better (around 3000rpm) but the guy said they've tried it in some of the trucks they built for the guys in Dubai and said the higher stall speed ended up giving them dimishing returns when you factor in the increased heat. I'll trust his judgement and just go with the one he recommends for my application. Worst case I could always send it back to get tuned. Stoked to see how well it does with the higher stall speed.
Started with installing SPC upper control arms. Biggest benefit to these is the added adjustability for caster and camber. I was able to add almost another 4° of caster and a little bit of negative camber. It drives noticeably better in the corners and the return to center is improved as well.
Replaced the axle seal on the drivers side. Hoping this time it holds up otherwise I'll need to swap bearings and flip the collar around for a better seal surface. Pretty frustrating, but hoping I just had some shitty seals the first time around. When I fixed the other side in Dec, it seems to be holding up fine. Hoping this side holds up too. I replaced the brake shoes while I was at it due to them being oil soaked. Wish I had a damn parts cleaner. Cleaning gear oil soaked everything sucks.
When we were out in Ridgecrest my whip mount that was attached to the spoiler finally started to give out. The spoiler just couldn't hold the weight of the heavy Buggy Whip. I made a bracket that I then rivetted onto the roof near a seam. In the pics I had buttonhead allen screws holding it on but I couldn't get the back two nuts on the underside because of some internal sheet metal layering that was too big of a pain in the ass to work around. Rivets should hold up fine along with the threaded 1/2" nut and washer holding it all together.
Took it for a test drive and blew out (I think) a seal on the trans torque converter pump. I'll pull the trans this weekend to fix the seal and inspect things a bit. Since I have the trans out, I'll be swapping in a higher stall speed torque converter. Stock is about 2200rpm and the one I ordered is about 2700rpm stall speed. I thought a bit more would be better (around 3000rpm) but the guy said they've tried it in some of the trucks they built for the guys in Dubai and said the higher stall speed ended up giving them dimishing returns when you factor in the increased heat. I'll trust his judgement and just go with the one he recommends for my application. Worst case I could always send it back to get tuned. Stoked to see how well it does with the higher stall speed.
Few things going on lately.
First of all I had a trans leak if you didn’t see the other thread. Turned out just to be a front pump seal. Other than dropping the trans and all that fun stuff, it was an easy fix and a $10 part. I did have a cracked flex plate but super lucky that Roberts truck was 10 feet away and already had the trans out, so I stole his flex plate. While I had the trans out I figured might as well upgrade the torque converter at the same time. Unfortunately the torque converter had some shipping delays due to a “mechanical failure” somewhere in PA with UPS. I wasn’t able to get it installed before this coming trip.
I also got my antenna mounted through the roof via an NMO mount rather than the shitty magnetic mount that likes to fall off on a regular basis. Simple and easy install.
Lastly I finally got a dust light installed. Since I’ve always had a weak point when it comes to electrical, I decided to make my own wiring for the dust light and set things up to plug in a fridge for camping trips. It wasn’t nearly as hard as I expected it to be once I understood how relays work, and understanding how to layout the wiring properly.
I used a 6 way fuse block that I mounted on the removable piece in the back cubby. I ran 10ga wire from the battery to the fuse block with a 30a fuse near the battery. For the dust light I wired in a relay block with a switch that is also lighted and powered by an ‘add-a-fuse’ from the interior fuse panel on the ignition fuse. Knowing my dumbass I’d leave the light on with the ignition off so I wired it to be retard proof. Overall it went well and was able to knock it out after work. Now I just need to make sure I have the right fuses in the block. I have a 10amp fuse for both the light and fridge. I assume the light only needs a 2.5a or 5a fuse. Gotta look up the specs on the fridge to see if 10a is good or too much/not enough.
First of all I had a trans leak if you didn’t see the other thread. Turned out just to be a front pump seal. Other than dropping the trans and all that fun stuff, it was an easy fix and a $10 part. I did have a cracked flex plate but super lucky that Roberts truck was 10 feet away and already had the trans out, so I stole his flex plate. While I had the trans out I figured might as well upgrade the torque converter at the same time. Unfortunately the torque converter had some shipping delays due to a “mechanical failure” somewhere in PA with UPS. I wasn’t able to get it installed before this coming trip.
I also got my antenna mounted through the roof via an NMO mount rather than the shitty magnetic mount that likes to fall off on a regular basis. Simple and easy install.
Lastly I finally got a dust light installed. Since I’ve always had a weak point when it comes to electrical, I decided to make my own wiring for the dust light and set things up to plug in a fridge for camping trips. It wasn’t nearly as hard as I expected it to be once I understood how relays work, and understanding how to layout the wiring properly.
I used a 6 way fuse block that I mounted on the removable piece in the back cubby. I ran 10ga wire from the battery to the fuse block with a 30a fuse near the battery. For the dust light I wired in a relay block with a switch that is also lighted and powered by an ‘add-a-fuse’ from the interior fuse panel on the ignition fuse. Knowing my dumbass I’d leave the light on with the ignition off so I wired it to be retard proof. Overall it went well and was able to knock it out after work. Now I just need to make sure I have the right fuses in the block. I have a 10amp fuse for both the light and fridge. I assume the light only needs a 2.5a or 5a fuse. Gotta look up the specs on the fridge to see if 10a is good or too much/not enough.
Itaro
Seriously, FJB
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- 13,115
It came with my race trailer. I decided to put it in the 4runner for this trip.WTF you got a fridge?!
Itaro
Seriously, FJB
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2018
- Messages
- 13,115
Had to fit in with the cool kids somehow
