FreshSeaBass Build Thread

eimkeith

IFSFFS.
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#41
Unless there’s a different T4R that I don’t know about (aside from 4Runners.com which is where I prefer to discuss things) the T4R that I know of is hundreds of pages of people being silly. “Oh, I just bought a new Limited and I got a chip in my paint. Should I ask for a lemon law vehicle replacement?” I have no tolerance for that crap. I barely go there anymore.
have you been to TW? I find that to be infinitely worse. (but I'm from t4R, so I might be acclimated to it there?)
 
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#43
oh snap; was just referencing this yesterday from T4R - didn't realize you were over here as well! (I'll try to catch up.)

- edit for full disclosure: Mr. Snufflelufagus and I are working on this too. ;)
Lol you don't want to reference my thread... Hahaha, funny enough Iam the guy that messaged you on Instagram asking about your background just the other day. You thinking about doing something of the sort, with regards to the strut tower? @eimkeith
 
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eimkeith

IFSFFS.
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#44
Lol you don't want to reference my thread... Hahaha, funny enough Iam the guy that messaged you on Instagram asking about your background just the other day. You thinking about doing something of the sort, with regards to the strut tower? @eimkeith
yeah, I need to cram an 8" coilover into a small space, so I'm going through the ceiling there as well.
(also, sorry about the less-than-glamorous answer to your background question) :)
 
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#45
yeah, I need to cram an 8" coilover into a small space, so I'm going through the ceiling there as well.
(also, sorry about the less-than-glamorous answer to your background question) :)
Great minds come up with the same histerical ideas I suppose. Nah nah, I got my hands on these for $280 so it was a no brainer. I'd love to pick your brain to see what kind of masterful witchcraft you've come up with. What I have isn't terribly complex, but I think it is functional and not horribly ugly.
 

Chris In Milwaukee

Never a mile from a car wash
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#46
have you been to TW? I find that to be infinitely worse. (but I'm from t4R, so I might be acclimated to it there?)
There’s some good things out there, but weeding through the “Where’s my discount code dammit?! I’m not buying your thing that you worked so hard to build by hand unless I get 50% off and free shipping to Kazakhstan but still have no intention of actually buy it” posts gets tedious.
 
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#47
I went back through with a fine tooth comb, took out the sleeves that you could originally see in the assembly, and this is what will be cut out. Had to go back through and isolate each part to make everything segmented. Getting better and better with each part, but IV can be a really deep software to fully grasp. It's amazing how capable it is. All you would need to supply in this case are two sections of tube 1.5" OD/1.25" ID/ 2"-2.25" long depending on whether you want .25" or .50" stick out past the two outer plates. At that point there is no benefit to having one or the other, but it has to be a minimum of 2" to have a decent weldment. The other part you would need to provide is a weldable shock bung which typically comes in a standard size: 1"OD x .250 wall at about 3" in length. You can find these anywhere like Ballistic Fab, RuffStuff, Barnes4wd,etc. If you fancy turning your own then that works too! I have built in tolerances of ±.015 for the outer tube and ±.013 for the shock bung. I'm pretty excited about this, BUT over the next week I'm going to marinate on it and think of ways I may want to improve it by adding gusseting. Final V2.0 will be tabbed and notched, but for right now I am really wanting to see that this works well without those constraints. Any comments/criticisms are welcome as always. :thanks:
Coilover Tower Final.PNG

*Edit*: Thinking that I will definitely add some fish plates overlapping the factory tower and the side plates of this tower.
 
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AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#49
I personally prefer to have very small tabs just for positioning while welding. Something no thicker than the thickness of the material. Keeps it very simple and still allows for a solid full length weld. And if you want to, you can do those small tabs on both pieces to help line things up even more. I'd leave a pretty small gap between the two tabs to help leave some room for error and positioning. It would be annoying to have to grind back each tab because it fits too tight or doesn't locate perfectly.

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Chris In Milwaukee

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#50
I personally prefer to have very small tabs just for positioning while welding. Something no thicker than the thickness of the material. Keeps it very simple and still allows for a solid full length weld. And if you want to, you can do those small tabs on both pieces to help line things up even more. I'd leave a pretty small gap between the two tabs to help leave some room for error and positioning. It would be annoying to have to grind back each tab because it fits too tight or doesn't locate perfectly.

View attachment 23331

View attachment 23333
Great idea! Would make for a great fusion tack.
 
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#52
^ what Steven said.

more importantly, tab & slot the inner pieces to the top & back wall so they are self-aligning for assembly.
It's like you can read my mind. Thats what I'm working on at the minute. I have half of the material thickness as the relief between two parts now. Going to tab and notch the shock tabs now.
 
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