Fuck turning wrenches, I wanna go wheeling; Build and BS

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
725
Location
DelCo PA
#1
2013 DCLB build
Modifications so far:

-King extended rear shocks (14" travel) (20/08 valving)
-Deaver Raptor Pack, on custom hangers and Camburg shackles.
-Ubolt flip
-2.5x2.5 King hydro Bumps, @200PSI rear
-1.5" Spidertrax Spacers
-295/70/17 Patagonia MT tires
-Demello bolt on sliders
-JBA Long Tube Headers
-BBK Varitune Muffler
-GMF Custom Stainless tail pipe
-Total Chaos alignment tab gussets
-Solid mount alignment tabs.
-Limit straps
-High-lift bed rail mount (see below)
-Fender well/cab mount chop (see bellow)

-Stainless brake lines: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/amazing-deal-on-steel-braded-brake-lines-group-buy.97331/

- Amazon special LED flood lights on the back bumper.
- Rigid Industries 20" flood/spot combo stealth mounted behind the grill.
- TC Spindle Gussets via @glorifiedwelder
- Gray Man Fab front bumper and IFS Skid
- Mid and Dif skid from @Mobtown Offroad
- double shear UCA mounts @Dirt King Fab
- flat tailgate skin/top guard @Mobtown Offroad
- CB Radio in center console with hood mount antenna
-Rear Diff armor @JLee
-Dual battery: Two group 31 Yellow Top, relocated behind the rear seat.
-bed lights
-ARB OBA
- Solo Motorsports power steering rack
- Solo heim joint tie rods
-DMZ solid motor mounts.
-Advanced Fiberglass fenders and bed sides
-custom rear bumper

Repaired/Replaced:
-Wheel bearings
-Power steering rack - Solo Motorsports Tundra Conversion
-Power steering pump

Planned:
-1000W inverter
-water tank
-Winch
-Hydro-bumps front
-Engine Cage
-LT Front

Removed:
-King Extended Travel 2.5" front shocks
-Plastics Guy dual-durometer rubber bumps front.
-Moog grease fitting lower control arm bolts
-Dirt King heimed UCAs
-Dirt King LCAs
- @tacodane LED hood lights: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacodane-led-kits.400988/
-CaliRaised amber front LED pods
-BAMF rear shock relocate @JLee
-Panda Special ATS pack
-I tried the sway-bar disconnect: it worked. But I always left it disconnected. So I just took it off.
-Icon Extended Travel 2.5" front shocks
-Icon 2" rear shocks
-Dakar leaf pack, got too heavy.
-Timbren bump stops (rear) failed!
-Wheelers super bumps (front)
-TWSS 2018 Front mudflaps.
-Bed corner tie down gussets: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bed-rail-corner-gusset-tie-down-brackets-gb-feeler.363734/
 
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Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
725
Location
DelCo PA
#2
Major Project notes:

Solo Rack Install:
The install is not a small project, you have to move the mounting locations, and clearance the frame (notch and weld) for the driver's side inner tie rod. It took me about a full day of work, although not rushing, to do the install, excluding removing and installing the armor. You'll be cutting, grinding and welding the frame, but it's not a complicated fab job. Enough said.

Otherwise, it's a normal rack install, I did the power steering pump and lines at the same time, just to start everything known good. Getting the boots over the rack is a PITA, I'll be upgrading the zip ties to hose clamps at some point soon.

My alignment shop was confused by the double heim joint tie rods, but figured it out. Converting the spindle to heim joints is easy, I'll do a double shear tab later to make it stronger. That will require removing the hub and small parts to avoid cooking anything.

Driving is a different experience, even on 33s the OE rack is working to drive around town, never mind offroad. The Solo feels much (10%? 15%?, total butt-dyno WAG) easier to turn and steer. It's also sharp, unlike the beat to shit OE rack that came out, and I think better than the OE rack when it went in. Certainly better than the OE rack after it's first hard wheeling trip.

I'd rather install one of these than a OEM rack, just because I'm pretty sure it won't be an annual project.

1) move the mounting bolts towards the front of the truck 1/8" to 1/4" to make clearance for the boots better on the back side of the frame
1a) drill a 1/4" hole where you want the new mount to be, then drill a 1/2" hole, then use the 1/2" drill as a reamer to make it a slot. User a grinder with a cutting wheel on the top.
1b) the frame bung is not welded on the bottom.
2) cut a bigger notch in the frame. No, still bigger. FFS that's a big boot.
3) Take the mounting arms completely off the front Diff.
4) Drivers side bolt on the rack goes in from the top (safety and clearance for the diff mounts, pass from the bottom (easy).
5) cross boot ventilation is important. Figure out how to connect them.
6) still less suck and fail than swapping an OE rack.
7) after the rack is in, but before bolting it down the last time, install both PS lines and connectors to the rack, then put it into position and bolt it down.

A year later:
That was very optimistic, while to solo rack is wildly better than the OEM Taco rack the drivers side inner seal is the weak link. I blew two of them in the last year, both with very large hits, and one tweak to the frame, but it's an issue. Solo customer service is fantastic though.

The Bump Steer is a bigger issue, with a stock width truck the difference in center line alignment causes massive bump-steer. AKA when the suspension cycles the wheel turns!
 
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Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
725
Location
DelCo PA
#3
Important References:
how to figure out correct shackle length for a swing up type shackle: first the 2 extremes- at full droop the shackle should be horizontal, or even a little under. you then have to limit it with straps to just above horizontal. the other extreme (bump) is debatable. i personally do them so the shackle is about the 1'oclock position. i have some *odd* theoretical ideas about why this is preferred. so there is about 120 degrees of shackle movement you want. now you'll take the growth of the spring, and figure it from there.
lets say we had a growth of 8 inches.

8(growth)*3 (120 degrees is 1/3 of a circle, so multiply by 3 to get circumference) = 24". now you solve for radius: 24/ 3.14 (pi)=approx 8" diameter /2 = 4" radius. NOW TO SIMPLIFY THAT EQUATION A BIT: just take your growth number and divide it by 2. a little simpler, but i think you should understand an equation in order to use it correctly. so a spring with 8" growth needs a 4" shackle. a spring with 10" growth needs a 5" shackle. and so on. this is only if you subscribe to my shackle angle part.

from here: https://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/shackle-length-s.11369/

U-Joint angles: This is why lifts cause vibes, and the solution is MATH. the angles should be <3 deg different, and ideally <1 deg different.
https://spicerparts.com/anglemaster/measuring-angles
 
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Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
725
Location
DelCo PA
#4
Advice to copy/paste for later:

Mid Travel setup:
I like Down South https://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-...it-with-compression-adjuster-25001-121-a.html or Filthy http://www.filthymotorsports.com/ for parts.

Definitely do the ECGS bushing, and I also recommend gusseted spindles.

You'll also need to upgrade the Upper Control Arm, or the ball joint will wear out in about 6 months. There's two options: get the JBA: https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-std-high...plus-4runner-03-plus-fj-cruisers-07-plus.html which is a great answer for our trucks and lots of guys have very good luck with these combined with an OEM LCA

or go all in and get a set of Dirt King Upper and Lower arms
https://dirtkingfabrication.com/collections/05-15-tacoma/products/heim-upper-control-arms-dk-811903
https://dirtkingfabrication.com/col...ucts/performance-lower-control-arms-dk-811904
This is what I run, but I am much, much, harder on my truck than the average bear.


119A is the correct answer for the front. Buy once, cry once, and they are fully rebuildable, so we can fix any issues or make tuning adjustments as needed.

For the rear I recommend a Dakar pack and BAMF relocate.
https://www.oldmanemu.com.au/products/emu-dakar-leaf-springs/
http://bayareametalfab.3dcartstores.com/2nd-Gen-Shock-Relocation-Kit_p_14.html BUY THIS WELDED
https://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-...emote-reservoir-12-inch-travel-pr2012-ss.html
 
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AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
5,547
Location
Yucaipa, CA
#15
That's what happens when you wheel your truck. Thankfully I did the DD mod the day before my PS rack crapped out.

Thanks. I like this place already.
The DD mod has been the best mod in a while. Last year I blew the rear diff twice in 6 weeks, forcing me to buy something reliable. Now I get to break shit whenever and not worry too much about it, besides not being able to wheel. The 2nd best mod has been truck and trailer. I get to beat on shit even harder without having to drive it home.
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
10,236
Age
41
Location
OC
#16
The DD mod has been the best mod in a while. Last year I blew the rear diff twice in 6 weeks, forcing me to buy something reliable. Now I get to break shit whenever and not worry too much about it, besides not being able to wheel. The 2nd best mod has been truck and trailer. I get to beat on shit even harder without having to drive it home.
I await the day I have room for a tow pig and trailer.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
5,547
Location
Yucaipa, CA
#19
tow rig is on my list as well.

Got through the last six month daily driving my Wife’s XJ while the Tacoma was apart.
As much as I hate XJ’s, I also love them. They are pieces of shit that just work really well for a cheap vehicle. I almost bought one when they were still super cheap in like 2011. I bought a motorcycle instead. I still have mixed feelings if I made the right decision. My brother wheels the shit out of his, and probably has invested less than $4k in total since he’s owned it almost 10 years now. I’d still rather have a V8 ZJ, but XJ’s are pretty cool too. I just hate unibodies.
 
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