Fuck turning wrenches, I wanna go wheeling; So I sold the taco.

[AssBurns]

Can anyone think of a reason a unit bearing like this: https://trail-gear.com/axles/dana-60-unit-hub.html
And a mounting plate like this: https://trail-gear.com/axles/unit-bearing-pocket.html

Couldn't be built up into a spindle for an IFS?

Trail Gear makes a knuckle using the same parts: https://trail-gear.com/axles/dana-60-ball-joint-knuckle-set.html

But that has an inner "c" to stabilize the other side of the CV or Universal joint. On an IFS that center shaft has to be self supporting.

I have a set of the 05+ Super Duty unit bearing cups sitting in my garage for a future project. I got S&S Fab unit bearing cups. I think they are only on FB though. The 05+ SD stuff is straight beef! The 99-04 SD stuff is still plenty strong so you can’t go wrong and they are smaller so less packaging and weight.

Cool thing about the 99-04 stuff is you have more options for 6 x 5.5 lug pattern where I think only Spidertrax makes that pattern for the 05+ stuff which is super pricey. I was just going to use the same stock Ford 8 lug pattern front and rear when I do it.

Here is some of the little progress I have so far on these.
Also an IFS knuckle using (I think) the SD stuff.

 

[AssBurns]

Also whatever you choose, you can get RCV axles made for it.

 

[Arcticelf]

Also whatever you choose, you can get RCV axles made for it.

If I do the fronts I'll use the same unit bearing as the rear, just to have common parts. I figured RCV can probably do anything, and I've already got 934 inners, but I'm not sure how the D60 unit bearing actually goes together with a drive slug or warn selectable hub.

I'm currently planning to keep the OEM diff, but it's unlocked, so hopefully that doesn't grenade. I guess if I blow a couple I'll need one of your housings.

Related, who was the guy building 9" 3rds you guys talked about on the podcast? I will need one in a few months, and was planning.tonjust order one from Currie, but I'm open to suggestions.

 

[AssBurns]

If I do the fronts I'll use the same unit bearing as the rear, just to have common parts. I figured RCV can probably do anything, and I've already got 934 inners, but I'm not sure how the D60 unit bearing actually goes together with a drive slug or warn selectable hub.

I'm currently planning to keep the OEM diff, but it's unlocked, so hopefully that doesn't grenade. I guess if I blow a couple I'll need one of your housings.

Related, who was the guy building 9" 3rds you guys talked about on the podcast? I will need one in a few months, and was planning.tonjust order one from Currie, but I'm open to suggestions.

If you plan on matching front and rear, might as well just get stock ford 8 x 170mm lug pattern wheels so you can get off the shelf Timken unit bearings at any parts store and use the stock SD brakes n shit for easy to source parts.

With RCV you have a few options (I have the CAD file for the 05+ RCV outer 1480 CV and the 1550 u-joint axle you see in the pics above). You can get their big bell ends that eliminate the drive slugs and/or selectable hub. Or you can keep it the standard 35 spline outer and use drive slugs or selectable hubs.

That was Chris Claasen (@Claasenbuilt on IG) who built Trevor's 9"

 

[Arcticelf]

If you plan on matching front and rear, might as well just get stock ford 8 x 170mm lug pattern wheels so you can get off the shelf Timken unit bearings at any parts store and use the stock SD brakes n shit for easy to source parts.

With RCV you have a few options (I have the CAD file for the 05+ RCV outer 1480 CV and the 1550 u-joint axle you see in the pics above). You can get their big bell ends that eliminate the drive slugs and/or selectable hub. Or you can keep it the standard 35 spline outer and use drive slugs or selectable hubs.

That was Chris Claasen (@Claasenbuilt on IG) who built Trevor's 9"

I'm already invested in 6x5.5 wheels, and my spider 9" roller comes with them. I thought about rolling the whole thing myself, and switching lug pattern, but the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

Cool. I'll have to give them a call if I decide to do the fronts now. I've got the parts to build up a oem taco spindle, minus wheel bearings, but it's tempting to just do it with SD parts the first time and not fuck with it again.

 

[AssBurns]

I'm already invested in 6x5.5 wheels, and my spider 9" roller comes with them. I thought about rolling the whole thing myself, and switching lug pattern, but the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

Cool. I'll have to give them a call if I decide to do the fronts now. I've got the parts to build up a oem taco spindle, minus wheel bearings, but it's tempting to just do it with SD parts the first time and not fuck with it again.

You could just do the TG or Spidertrax unit bearings with the lug pattern. What's cool with the Spidertrax unit bearings is that they are already broached for 35 or 40 spline instead of dealing with drive slugs or selectable hubs. Just keeps it simple and less moving parts. Definitely more expensive than the TG stuff, but I would bet they are much higher qualify with the timken bearings

http://www.spidertrax.com/Ultimate-Unit-Bearing-6-on-5-1-2-x-RH

 

[Arcticelf]

You could just do the TG or Spidertrax unit bearings with the lug pattern. What's cool with the Spidertrax unit bearings is that they are already broached for 35 or 40 spline instead of dealing with drive slugs or selectable hubs. Just keeps it simple and less moving parts. Definitely more expensive than the TG stuff, but I would bet they are much higher qualify with the timken bearings

http://www.spidertrax.com/Ultimate-Unit-Bearing-6-on-5-1-2-x-RH

That's a nice hub, I'll have to look at the rear when they show up, stack height could become an issue for my track width and scrub radius.

And after you add in a drive slug or hub, those aren't that much more than a TG unit.

 

[AssBurns]

That's a nice hub, I'll have to look at the rear when they show up, stack height could become an issue for my track width and scrub radius.

And after you add in a drive slug or hub, those aren't that much more than a TG unit.

These eliminate the drive slug and hub which is super nice. Eliminates extra parts.

yeah I think the hub is a little narrower than stock with them to help lower the scrub radius. Not too sure though.

 

[Arcticelf]

Another day of working on other people's trucks.

 

[Arcticelf]

Bending 1.25x 1/4 DOM for LT LCAs

 

[AssBurns]

That's some thick tube. Hydraulic bender I assume?

 

[Arcticelf]

That's some thick tube. Hydraulic bender I assume?

Yes, Mod32 with air/hydro. I'll put a 3/16" plate on the bottom of the LCA to keep a rock from gretting trapped in there, but all the strength is in the tube. Hopefully I don't dent it...

 

[AssBurns]

Yes, Mod32 with air/hydro. I'll put a 3/16" plate on the bottom of the LCA to keep a rock from gretting trapped in there, but all the strength is in the tube. Hopefully I don't dent it...

Nice! Eventually I’d like to get the 32 so I could bend thicker stuff, but that’s a ways down the line. Other tools and parts are priority at the moment.
You’ll be fine I’m guessing. That’s some thick materials to bend.

 

[Arcticelf]

Gear ratios:

I'm on 34s now, with OEM gears and it sucks. I could easily go to 35s without any more work on the truck. That says 4.56 to have a reasonable highway cruising speed.

If I went to 37s I'd be better off than I am now on the OEM gears, but 4.88s would be ideal. However, on 35s with 4.88 highway RPMs would be stupid, and 37s will need substantially more work to clearance on the front. I'm not sure that's worth the effort on a truck that's not being built for crawling.

 

[4runner DOA]

Gear ratios:

I'm on 34s now, with OEM gears and it sucks. I could easily go to 35s without any more work on the truck. That says 4.56 to have a reasonable highway cruising speed.

If I went to 37s I'd be better off than I am now on the OEM gears, but 4.88s would be ideal. However, on 35s with 4.88 highway RPMs would be stupid, and 37s will need substantially more work to clearance on the front. I'm not sure that's worth the effort on a truck that's not being built for crawling.

I'm running 4.88s on 35s, highway rpms are like 2700 @ 77ish.

And 4.88s are fun in the dirt at high speeds.

 

[Arcticelf]

I'm running 4.88s on 35s, highway rpms are like 2700 @ 77ish.

And 4.88s are fun in the dirt at high speeds.

4.88s would be more fun in the dirt, for sure.

How's your lolMPGs on the higway?

 

[4runner DOA]

4.88s would be more fun in the dirt, for sure.

How's your lolMPGs on the higway?

Haven't calculated it in awhile, but probably 12-14. the runner is a heavy brick though.

 

[Arcticelf]

Haven't calculated it in awhile, but probably 12-14. the runner is a heavy brick though.

I'd be happy to stay in that range. My taco is a) fat and b) on the wrong gears, so I end up at higher RPM than I'd like anyway.

 

[AssBurns]

Pretty much everyone I've talked to regrets 4.56 gears. Take the extra leap to 4.88 or if you plan on bigger tires then 5.29 isn't the worst option either.

 

[Stairgod]

Gear ratios:

I'm on 34s now, with OEM gears and it sucks. I could easily go to 35s without any more work on the truck. That says 4.56 to have a reasonable highway cruising speed.

If I went to 37s I'd be better off than I am now on the OEM gears, but 4.88s would be ideal. However, on 35s with 4.88 highway RPMs would be stupid, and 37s will need substantially more work to clearance on the front. I'm not sure that's worth the effort on a truck that's not being built for crawling.

4.88s definitely.
After roughly 80k miles of highway driving in 4.88s I would not call the highway rpms high.
Mileage sucked when I was on 33s and stock gears, and it didn't get better with the 35s and gears.
And fuck mileage. It ain't no Prius