General ?s T4R.org hasnt helped solve

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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You guys helped me with my last question so I'll move on to the next one. I recall @AssBurns and I think blackflagt4r? Went with the front range offroad rear upper links but only ran the passenger side link for a 3link setup. I understand the advantage to this was that it eliminates binding from the factory geometry, correct? Is there a need to beef up the passenger upper mounts either axle or frame side since the full load is now only on the single link?
I made my own upper(s) using metalcloak joints, but yes you are correct. We both ditched the driver side upper link to make it a true 3 link to prevent binding. I would say it is a very good idea to beef up the mounts. I ran it that way for almost 2 years without any issues, but that isn’t to say it can’t happen. @theesotericone collapsed his drivers side upper while running both upper links, so I’m sure it can happen with one. I think @eimkeith might have finished his brackets to brace the upper link mounts. Might want to hit him up about that.
 
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I made my own upper(s) using metalcloak joints, but yes you are correct. We both ditched the driver side upper link to make it a true 3 link to prevent binding. I would say it is a very good idea to beef up the mounts. I ran it that way for almost 2 years without any issues, but that isn’t to say it can’t happen. @theesotericone collapsed his drivers side upper while running both upper links, so I’m sure it can happen with one. I think @eimkeith might have finished his brackets to brace the upper link mounts. Might want to hit him up about that.
Did you notice any difference in road handling or general funky behavior out of the rear end with the single link? As far as it is now with rokmen lowers and factory upper arms I don't notice anything through full suspension cycle, but I'm also running factory shock mounts without a ton of droop and have never cycled it without shocks/coils.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Did you notice any difference in road handling or general funky behavior out of the rear end with the single link? As far as it is now with rokmen lowers and factory upper arms I don't notice anything through full suspension cycle, but I'm also running factory shock mounts without a ton of droop and have never cycled it without shocks/coils.
Nope I didn’t notice any difference. I broke 2 drivers side stock upper links and only noticed it because it was making noise from flopping on the gas tank
 

4runner DOA

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I made my own upper(s) using metalcloak joints, but yes you are correct. We both ditched the driver side upper link to make it a true 3 link to prevent binding. I would say it is a very good idea to beef up the mounts. I ran it that way for almost 2 years without any issues, but that isn’t to say it can’t happen. @theesotericone collapsed his drivers side upper while running both upper links, so I’m sure it can happen with one. I think @eimkeith might have finished his brackets to brace the upper link mounts. Might want to hit him up about that.

That reminds me, we need to figure out what joints I need to use. I've got a Xmas bonus coming up in a couple weeks.
 

Theblackflag

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You guys helped me with my last question so I'll move on to the next one. I recall @AssBurns and I think blackflagt4r? Went with the front range offroad rear upper links but only ran the passenger side link for a 3link setup. I understand the advantage to this was that it eliminates binding from the factory geometry, correct? Is there a need to beef up the passenger upper mounts either axle or frame side since the full load is now only on the single link?

Guess I'm a little late on the link discussion but I also used the metal cloak joints for my links which I bought from 530 Motorsports. At least in the lower two that is. The upper link I used 2" ballistic joints because they were the only 2 inch joint that would fit the 1.25" threaded link. I also redid all of my mounts and made new ones out of 1/4 inch steel for added strength and better geometry. I think If you're only running one upper link you absolutely should beef up the mounts, that upper link is the only thing that keeps the axle from rolling around under load.

IMG_0159 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
IMG_0161 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

Full compression
IMG_0170 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

Overall
IMG_0176 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
 

Silver_4runner

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Where did you buy yours from? I looked on Yukons website and it doesn't even show they offer a 7.5 clamshell autolocker
Hey so ingot I'm touch with Yukon and it looks like spartan locker is there sister company, so Yukon makes a rear 8" clamshell mechanical locker and then there sister company spartan makes the front 7.5" clamshell 27 spline front locker
 

4runner DOA

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Hey so ingot I'm touch with Yukon and it looks like spartan locker is there sister company, so Yukon makes a rear 8" clamshell mechanical locker and then there sister company spartan makes the front 7.5" clamshell 27 spline front locker

If it's your daily you'll have to adjust how you drive with a lunchbox locker. They're a bit clunky around corners at speed.
 

4runner DOA

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Yeah I forgot about that. Gotta remember your joint size and go from there

Xmas bonus is paying for an axle now. Haha. 2 5/8 width is stock front mount. I should have measured the rear while I had them out earlier.
 
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