Going 35's. Toyo MT or KM3

Toyo MT or KM3

  • Toyo MT

    Votes: 8 72.7%
  • KM3

    Votes: 3 27.3%

  • Total voters
    11
Joined
Feb 1, 2019
Messages
50
Age
32
#29
The 37's almost look narrower too. Could be the added height making it look that way but still looks pretty narrow (which I like)
Yea I haven't measured them but they do look narrower, my new wheels are here today so I'm gonna get the tires mounted and do final clearancing then they should be good to go in the next few weeks!
 
Joined
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36
Location
Colorado Springs
#30
Went with the 315 Toyo's. Cutting up the truck as we speak. Hoping to have it up and running this weekend or next. SPC's installed and set to F currently. No body lift. Think I've cut enough but not sure once the "tub" is welded in place. May open it up a little more first. First question does the sheet metal butt up in the opening for welding or does it over lap the existing firewall material some? The only thing I hit full bump full lock is the frame on the back side of the tire. Which is odd. I thought guys were hitting frame on the front side of the tire. Can anyone verify this? Currently running 16x8 4.5 bs with SPC UCA's. no spacers. clearing the UCA at full droop by 1/4 inch. MVIMG_20190202_112342.jpg IMG_20190202_123518.jpg IMG_20190202_123510.jpg IMG_20190202_172628.jpg IMG_20190202_183452.jpg IMG_20190202_171834.jpg
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#31
Went with the 315 Toyo's. Cutting up the truck as we speak. Hoping to have it up and running this weekend or next. SPC's installed and set to F currently. No body lift. Think I've cut enough but not sure once the "tub" is welded in place. May open it up a little more first. First question does the sheet metal butt up in the opening for welding or does it over lap the existing firewall material some? The only thing I hit full bump full lock is the frame on the back side of the tire. Which is odd. I thought guys were hitting frame on the front side of the tire. Can anyone verify this? Currently running 16x8 4.5 bs with SPC UCA's. no spacers. clearing the UCA at full droop by 1/4 inch. View attachment 3784 View attachment 3785 View attachment 3786 View attachment 3787 View attachment 3788 View attachment 3789
When I tub the couple firewalls I’ve done, I always try to overlap a little to make welding a little easier. That way you aren’t having to do butt welds on super thin sheet metal, and it gives you plenty of tolerance so your patch sheet doesn’t have to be exactly perfect.

I rub the frame at the back of the tire, not in the front at all.

Lastly I’d cut that upper point a little more if you can. I rub there a tiny bit on really hard bottom outs, and that little extra cutting would eliminate that. (Really I just shouldn’t be bottoming out so hard, but that’s no fun to go slow)
 
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#32
When I tub the couple firewalls I’ve done, I always try to overlap a little to make welding a little easier. That way you aren’t having to do butt welds on super thin sheet metal, and it gives you plenty of tolerance so your patch sheet doesn’t have to be exactly perfect.

I rub the frame at the back of the tire, not in the front at all.

Lastly I’d cut that upper point a little more if you can. I rub there a tiny bit on really hard bottom outs, and that little extra cutting would eliminate that. (Really I just shouldn’t be bottoming out so hard, but that’s no fun to go slow)
Perfect. That makes sense and would make the welding easier since I have close to zero experience. You referring to the upper point at the top right corner of the current cut or at the top of the wheel well where the cut started?

Good to hear on the frame rub. I was hoping I wouldn't have to run spacers for any reason. Takes a pretty sharp turn but definitely hits the frame at full lock.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#33
Perfect. That makes sense and would make the welding easier since I have close to zero experience. You referring to the upper point at the top right corner of the current cut or at the top of the wheel well where the cut started?

Good to hear on the frame rub. I was hoping I wouldn't have to run spacers for any reason. Takes a pretty sharp turn but definitely hits the frame at full lock.
Oh you know what, it looks like you are good. I was looking on my phone and got confused by the shadow. You cut to about the same point I did, maybe a hair more. You should be good. That shadow looked like you cut like 2" below what I was talking about. Carry on..
 
Joined
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Messages
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Age
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Location
Colorado Springs
#34
Oh you know what, it looks like you are good. I was looking on my phone and got confused by the shadow. You cut to about the same point I did, maybe a hair more. You should be good. That shadow looked like you cut like 2" below what I was talking about. Carry on..
Yeah so at full bump full lock it clears. Maybe a quarter inch to spare tops. Tire tread is close to the cut on the inside of the cut looking down through the drivers floor board. Think it will work as long as the patch piece is "formed" correctly as I weld it in. Should know by this weekend if I can find the time to finish it and move on to the passenger side.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#35
Yeah so at full bump full lock it clears. Maybe a quarter inch to spare tops. Tire tread is close to the cut on the inside of the cut looking down through the drivers floor board. Think it will work as long as the patch piece is "formed" correctly as I weld it in. Should know by this weekend if I can find the time to finish it and move on to the passenger side.
When I did mine tub, I pulled one of the bumps to let the bump compress a little, then left about 1/4" or so extra for bump compression. When I patched it, I made the piece a larger than needed on the side that overlaps. I tacked the outside edges in a couple spots and "formed" it with a deadblow hammer to keep it curved and out of the way of the tire. Definitely check clearances before you finish tacking it all together. Once you get it where you want, just trim any excess material if needed, or just get straight to welding.

IMG_5711.JPG IMG_5723.JPG IMG_5725.JPG
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#36
This little hump is where I rub on hard bottom outs. I’d try to hit it with a BFH if you can before you weld it all together.

80EEABBC-3E84-4052-9AB1-6863547D9C60.jpeg
 

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