Hank
Sarcastic asshole
FYI my buddy has BFG Muds that say 37 on the side and we measured them at 25psi and they measured just over 35.25" on his truck. I can't imagine how short 35's would be.
Just ask @Mike_taco4x4... His look like 33's.
FYI my buddy has BFG Muds that say 37 on the side and we measured them at 25psi and they measured just over 35.25" on his truck. I can't imagine how short 35's would be.
Just ask @Mike_taco4x4... His look like 33's.
Just ask @Mike_taco4x4... His look like 33's.
34.25.That's cause they are 33's. Didn't he measure them? 33.75? I forget but it was pretty pathetic. My old Nitto Ridge Grapplers 295/70/17 may be bigger. @Mike_taco4x4 I still have those if you want them. lol
34.25.
34.25.
The 37's almost look narrower too. Could be the added height making it look that way but still looks pretty narrow (which I like)I can confirm the 37's are small and my 35's are small:
35" KM3 on the left and 37" KM3 on the right
36PSI mounted:
Full bump
The 37's almost look narrower too. Could be the added height making it look that way but still looks pretty narrow (which I like)
When I tub the couple firewalls I’ve done, I always try to overlap a little to make welding a little easier. That way you aren’t having to do butt welds on super thin sheet metal, and it gives you plenty of tolerance so your patch sheet doesn’t have to be exactly perfect.Went with the 315 Toyo's. Cutting up the truck as we speak. Hoping to have it up and running this weekend or next. SPC's installed and set to F currently. No body lift. Think I've cut enough but not sure once the "tub" is welded in place. May open it up a little more first. First question does the sheet metal butt up in the opening for welding or does it over lap the existing firewall material some? The only thing I hit full bump full lock is the frame on the back side of the tire. Which is odd. I thought guys were hitting frame on the front side of the tire. Can anyone verify this? Currently running 16x8 4.5 bs with SPC UCA's. no spacers. clearing the UCA at full droop by 1/4 inch. View attachment 3784View attachment 3785View attachment 3786View attachment 3787View attachment 3788View attachment 3789
When I tub the couple firewalls I’ve done, I always try to overlap a little to make welding a little easier. That way you aren’t having to do butt welds on super thin sheet metal, and it gives you plenty of tolerance so your patch sheet doesn’t have to be exactly perfect.
I rub the frame at the back of the tire, not in the front at all.
Lastly I’d cut that upper point a little more if you can. I rub there a tiny bit on really hard bottom outs, and that little extra cutting would eliminate that. (Really I just shouldn’t be bottoming out so hard, but that’s no fun to go slow)
Oh you know what, it looks like you are good. I was looking on my phone and got confused by the shadow. You cut to about the same point I did, maybe a hair more. You should be good. That shadow looked like you cut like 2" below what I was talking about. Carry on..Perfect. That makes sense and would make the welding easier since I have close to zero experience. You referring to the upper point at the top right corner of the current cut or at the top of the wheel well where the cut started?
Good to hear on the frame rub. I was hoping I wouldn't have to run spacers for any reason. Takes a pretty sharp turn but definitely hits the frame at full lock.
Oh you know what, it looks like you are good. I was looking on my phone and got confused by the shadow. You cut to about the same point I did, maybe a hair more. You should be good. That shadow looked like you cut like 2" below what I was talking about. Carry on..
When I did mine tub, I pulled one of the bumps to let the bump compress a little, then left about 1/4" or so extra for bump compression. When I patched it, I made the piece a larger than needed on the side that overlaps. I tacked the outside edges in a couple spots and "formed" it with a deadblow hammer to keep it curved and out of the way of the tire. Definitely check clearances before you finish tacking it all together. Once you get it where you want, just trim any excess material if needed, or just get straight to welding.Yeah so at full bump full lock it clears. Maybe a quarter inch to spare tops. Tire tread is close to the cut on the inside of the cut looking down through the drivers floor board. Think it will work as long as the patch piece is "formed" correctly as I weld it in. Should know by this weekend if I can find the time to finish it and move on to the passenger side.
This little hump is where I rub on hard bottom outs. I’d try to hit it with a BFH if you can before you weld it all together.
View attachment 3835