This is how the first gen guys did it. Based off an old race truck from desert rangers. Crazy amount of work. Arms look long enough so bump steer shouldn't be that bad. I'd try to swing at a 30* angle from horizontal if it helps bump steer more.
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SO much damn work. I'm going to quit rock crawling and go join the overlanders.
Is that a 5 lug truck? Looks different than mine.This is how the first gen guys did it. Based off an old race truck from desert rangers. Crazy amount of work. Arms look long enough so bump steer shouldn't be that bad. I'd try to swing at a 30* angle from horizontal if it helps bump steer more.
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Is that a 5 lug truck? Looks different than mine.
Seems legit. Hydro assist would be badass! How is the steering column routed? I see something about a V-drive?
Okay that makes sense then. Yeah with 4wd, it could be a packaging issue.This is a first gen tundra. Same concept because we are rear steer. The steering box is under the cab and has a 90* miter box to mate to your steering column. Looks like it would get in the way of a front drive shaft with 4wd. Only seen it on prerunners so far.
I think it just depends on the kit. I’d like to make it heims on both ends but need to make sure it won’t lead to increased bump steer. I think I’ll make the steering attach at the spindle instead of the LBJ so I don’t have to modify LBJ’s every time they need to be replaced. Keep it auto parts store friendly. Depends exactly how I can make it work while still not being in the way of stock parts.Didn't notice it the first time through but they're using an outer tre with a heimed inner. Didn't think that was common or am I outta the loop? Allowing unmodified LBJ on 1G Tundra and 1G tacos would be nice though.
could @Plastics Guy mold a replacement boot that meets up with the clevis adapter? CAD work looks straightforward, dunno how his molding capabilities are in terms of long hollow components. Probably need to machine a groove on the clevis adapter for the seat to clamp.
I think it just depends on the kit. I’d like to make it heims on both ends but need to make sure it won’t lead to increased bump steer. I think I’ll make the steering attach at the spindle instead of the LBJ so I don’t have to modify LBJ’s every time they need to be replaced. Keep it auto parts store friendly. Depends exactly how I can make it work while still not being in the way of stock parts.
Def jelly at that upgrade man...curious is that an all weekend job? My hope next year is to get the solo upgraded steering rack and then probably go heim as well.I'm running the Solo Tundra Rack and Heim joint Tie Rod (joints on both ends) with a Mid-Travel set up. There's definitely bump steer issues with this setup, and I had to fab a new steering pickup for the spindle to fix it. I think I'm the first person to do this, since they usually sell the tie rod upgrade as part of an LT kit. Because of the wider track I don't think this is as much an issue for the LT rigs.
I'm glad I did the upgrade, but it's definitely not a bolt-on for a stock-width truck.
Def jelly at that upgrade man...curious is that an all weekend job? My hope next year is to get the solo upgraded steering rack and then probably go heim as well.
Are you saying that I would need to modify my spindles at the bottom? I also have spindle gussets and not sure if those would have to be nodded as well. Def sounds like a serious job though.It would be a very full weekend, but possible.
You have to install the rack, the tie rods, cycle everything to get the bump steer sorted, then weld up the spindles.
Just the rack swap is a 10 hour job, I'd plan two weekends, and just deal with the bump steer for a week, it's not too bad to live with if you're not in the highway.
ETA: you're already long travel, so the spindle upgrade might not be required. You'll have to cycle and see. You'll love the rack and tie rods.
Since you are LT you probably don't have to do anything to the spindle to make it work. I had to add plates and extend the steering pickup point forward and up (my hiem joint is entirely in front of the stock attachment point) to make the bump steer work.Are you saying that I would need to modify my spindles at the bottom? I also have spindle gussets and not sure if those would have to be nodded as well. Def sounds like a serious job though.
This issue has been bugging me for a while now. On our second rack, and it’s going to need replaced soon as well. No issues with tre’s, just wearing out the rack.
The solo and marlin options are both iffy for being a quality upgrade. Had me looking into swing steering, old school idler arm steering, but I’ve mostly been digging into the Howe racks as well as the sweet racks as well since they have so many options. (Looked at fortins as well but they are a pretty big package to fit).
Lots of race application use and pure Offroad use, but can’t find mush of anyone using them ON road. Keeping the truck a road vehicle is ideal as I hate when places build rigs and they have to trailer it everywhere because it can’t handle the road. (Meaning street purposed rigs, like a jku, Tacoma, etc etc. ).
To elaborate. A rack is easiest to package with 4wd and the small confines. Moderately easy to get packaged to correct length rams/rods to minimize bumpsteer as much as possible. Servo allows for customizing road feel/ feedback in the wheel.
The box setup is harder to fit, by a lot. However an assist ram would really smooth things out and if you take the time to do right you could really eliminate a lot of bump steer by having swings match arc of outer tre’s and keep things a bit better in line (why I questioned marlins kit, yeah moving forward is great to get out of firewall and the increased leverage makes it ‘feel’ easier to steer, but fucks off all the scrub, Ackerman, etc ) but again packaging is an issue.
But what about mixing the two, ish. Using a slider rack, and attaching it to a center link on a swing setup. Easy packaging of no box or pitman or rerouting steering shaft, but the benefits of a swing set up. If room allowed you ‘could’ add an assist ram to the center link and have an upgraded rack with assist.
Just tossing out the basics of all the math and sketches I’ve been doing to see if anyone has an insight to tell me to quit wasting my time and toss another stock rack in.
Yeah I was meaning the socket on the joints is still fine on factory steering, no wear to be felt, but the damn rack has gotten super loose twice now, seems pretty lame the rack is that weak.Tie rods are only and issue if you hit shit hard enough to bend them, otherwise they don't tend to fail.
The problem with Howe and similar is there is no physical linkage from the steering wheel to the rack, so if you lose hydraulic pressure you lose steering, hence not DOT legal, and dubiously safe on road.
Quality issues with the Marlin are TBD I suppose, but the solo rack is a tundra rack, and suffers the same issues. It is a shitload better than OE though.
Yeah I was meaning the socket on the joints is still fine on factory steering, no wear to be felt, but the damn rack has gotten super loose twice now, seems pretty lame the rack is that weak.
Yeah I’ve done the full hydro thing on the road with a different build. Wasn’t terrible as it was set up well with a return to center orbital and all. Could cruise 65-70 no issues. As far as legal iirc it’s actually a per state/location thing if you really dig down into it. (Lots of old discussions on pirate and such). I’ve even driven a few commercial that were full hydro (winch truck for rig move ).
It isn’t the ideal situation as bump steer on one of those is potentially going to be a pain, but would have to see. Just discussing if anyone has looked into or done those options as I haven’t found much info digging on the inter webs.
This issue has been bugging me for a while now. On our second rack, and it’s going to need replaced soon as well. No issues with tre’s, just wearing out the rack.
The solo and marlin options are both iffy for being a quality upgrade. Had me looking into swing steering, old school idler arm steering, but I’ve mostly been digging into the Howe racks as well as the sweet racks as well since they have so many options. (Looked at fortins as well but they are a pretty big package to fit).
Lots of race application use and pure Offroad use, but can’t find mush of anyone using them ON road. Keeping the truck a road vehicle is ideal as I hate when places build rigs and they have to trailer it everywhere because it can’t handle the road. (Meaning street purposed rigs, like a jku, Tacoma, etc etc. ).
I don't know a whole lot about these upgraded racks, but I also want to look into something stronger once I increase tire size. I've already gone through a few racks, and I know larger tires will only make it worse.To elaborate. A rack is easiest to package with 4wd and the small confines. Moderately easy to get packaged to correct length rams/rods to minimize bumpsteer as much as possible. Servo allows for customizing road feel/ feedback in the wheel.
The box setup is harder to fit, by a lot. However an assist ram would really smooth things out and if you take the time to do right you could really eliminate a lot of bump steer by having swings match arc of outer tre’s and keep things a bit better in line (why I questioned marlins kit, yeah moving forward is great to get out of firewall and the increased leverage makes it ‘feel’ easier to steer, but fucks off all the scrub, Ackerman, etc ) but again packaging is an issue.
But what about mixing the two, ish. Using a slider rack, and attaching it to a center link on a swing setup. Easy packaging of no box or pitman or rerouting steering shaft, but the benefits of a swing set up. If room allowed you ‘could’ add an assist ram to the center link and have an upgraded rack with assist.
Just tossing out the basics of all the math and sketches I’ve been doing to see if anyone has an insight to tell me to quit wasting my time and toss another stock rack in.