Great stuff. I’ll do it this as soon as I canHow to reset and calibrate your VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) computerQuick and easy, straight forward, no technical BS.This procedure is recommended by Toyota, after front end alignment adjustments are made. Make sure your truck has VSC before you begin. VSC was optional in 2005-2008 model trucks, and became a standard safety feature in 2009 and later.
- Find a flat place to park your truck, make sure your steering wheel is straight, and then turn it off.
- On the left side of your dash is a coin tray, beneath that is a diagnostic connector, remove the plastic cover to reveal the port.
- Find a skinny piece of wire 2 inches in length it does not matter what kind of wire it is.
- Bend the wire into a u-shape, you will be using the wire to short out two pins on the connector, illustrated in green.
- The first step process is to wipe the mind the VSC computer.
- The second step is to calibrate the computer
- Done.
READY??? GOOD.
- Turn the ignition to the on position, and then short out the pins, 4 times or more within an eight second period. If you're successful the ABS light, and the slip indicator light will flash simultaneously at a steady interval. Congratulations you just wiped the mind of the VSC computer!
- Turn ignition off.
- Short out the pins with your wire, leave the wire in there, turn ignition to on position. Be careful not to disturb the truck, must remain very still for two seconds during calibration. Observe the ABS light and the slip indicator light they will be flashing simultaneously at a steady rapid interval, faster than before. Congratulations you've just calibrated the VSC computer.
- Turn ignition off, remove wire, and go drive and have fun.
I finally got the dreaded P0500 Code
- Thread starter Subway4x4
- Start date
Didn’t work. Any other ideas?How to reset and calibrate your VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) computerQuick and easy, straight forward, no technical BS.This procedure is recommended by Toyota, after front end alignment adjustments are made. Make sure your truck has VSC before you begin. VSC was optional in 2005-2008 model trucks, and became a standard safety feature in 2009 and later.
- Find a flat place to park your truck, make sure your steering wheel is straight, and then turn it off.
- On the left side of your dash is a coin tray, beneath that is a diagnostic connector, remove the plastic cover to reveal the port.
- Find a skinny piece of wire 2 inches in length it does not matter what kind of wire it is.
- Bend the wire into a u-shape, you will be using the wire to short out two pins on the connector, illustrated in green.
- The first step process is to wipe the mind the VSC computer.
- The second step is to calibrate the computer
- Done.
READY??? GOOD.
- Turn the ignition to the on position, and then short out the pins, 4 times or more within an eight second period. If you're successful the ABS light, and the slip indicator light will flash simultaneously at a steady interval. Congratulations you just wiped the mind of the VSC computer!
- Turn ignition off.
- Short out the pins with your wire, leave the wire in there, turn ignition to on position. Be careful not to disturb the truck, must remain very still for two seconds during calibration. Observe the ABS light and the slip indicator light they will be flashing simultaneously at a steady rapid interval, faster than before. Congratulations you've just calibrated the VSC computer.
- Turn ignition off, remove wire, and go drive and have fun.
Get some lube apply it liberally and head to the dealership.
Airdog
Did Your Mom
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2018
- Messages
- 543
Pull your front and Rear ABS sensors off. See if they are covered in black goopy shit (also known as grease) if so your have bad wheel bearing. The tone ring for the sensors are on the bearing...if the bearing is going bad the tone ring can stop spinning and the sensor does not get a signal. Start with the rear sensors.
Stairgod
Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2019
- Messages
- 2,453
Find the wire right by the bank of connectors behind the DS kick panel. Go to Bob's favorite Taco forum to figure out which wire.
Cut said wire. ABS light will be on forever but no more pesky Traction Control or ABS to fuck with you.
Also, does your speedo still work?
If so it is probably not a wheel speed sensor
Cut said wire. ABS light will be on forever but no more pesky Traction Control or ABS to fuck with you.
Also, does your speedo still work?
If so it is probably not a wheel speed sensor
It’s strange. When I’m on the accelerator, the speedo shows zero MPH. When I touch the brake, my Speedo shows correct speed.
I’ll need to check this possibility
Welp. I spent the weekend trying fix my electrical gremlins.
Does the Tacoma have an external voltage regulator that can be changed out?
I have a new alternator and its measured output is 11.8 v.
We switched it out with another brand new alternator yesterday and it still reads 11.8v
So two new alternators can’t be the issue.
Two weeks ago I fully recharged the brand new battery, and everything ran perfectly with no dash lights for 8 miles. Then when I restarted the engine, all the lights and reverse Speedo needle came back
I guess the first 8 miles the rig was doing well with the fully charged battery and low alternator charge rate... until the battery ran down to less than 11.9v
I’m thinking that all these lights are because of the low system voltage. So If I fix the low charge rate, the dashlights, window power might be fixed.
All are guesses at this point.
Does the Tacoma have an external voltage regulator that can be changed out?
I have a new alternator and its measured output is 11.8 v.
We switched it out with another brand new alternator yesterday and it still reads 11.8v
So two new alternators can’t be the issue.
Two weeks ago I fully recharged the brand new battery, and everything ran perfectly with no dash lights for 8 miles. Then when I restarted the engine, all the lights and reverse Speedo needle came back
I guess the first 8 miles the rig was doing well with the fully charged battery and low alternator charge rate... until the battery ran down to less than 11.9v
I’m thinking that all these lights are because of the low system voltage. So If I fix the low charge rate, the dashlights, window power might be fixed.
All are guesses at this point.
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Voltage regulator is in the alternator.
What was your rpm reading? The alt doesn't actually charge unless it's over 650 (I believe, might be 600) If you rev it up, does it the alt show charging? When a battery dies or is disconnected for awhile you may have to let the computer relearn the idle. Fully charge the battery (12.7-12.9v) start the truck, and let it idle. Takes 10-15 mins and the battery will start to drain. Eventually it'll start to bog down and act like it's going to stall, but let it happen, but the idle will start to kick up. Make sure there's no accessories on.
I’ll try this, but the charge rate does not go up when I rev up.
Then it's not the alternator or idle. There's a fuse in the fuse box that regulates when the alternator starts charging. Look for that.
Edit: under the hood fuse box. I wanna say it's next to the big fuse that's bolted in.
I replaced my original OEM alternator this February with abHO 250 Amp.
This crap started happening last month or so i measured the output at 11.8v, so I asked and they sent me a warranty replacement 250 Amp alternator which was replaced last month. The output is still 11.8 v, so yesterday, I bought and replaced the alternator with a 180 Amp alternator from Advance Auto Parts. Still 11.8 volts.
So, the original and three new alternators at 11.8 volt output on all four.
It’s safe to say that it’s not an alternator issue.
This crap started happening last month or so i measured the output at 11.8v, so I asked and they sent me a warranty replacement 250 Amp alternator which was replaced last month. The output is still 11.8 v, so yesterday, I bought and replaced the alternator with a 180 Amp alternator from Advance Auto Parts. Still 11.8 volts.
So, the original and three new alternators at 11.8 volt output on all four.
It’s safe to say that it’s not an alternator issue.
This might be the answer. I’ll check when I get home. Thanks!
Always late. I was about to ask if by any chance you have Voltage Booster installed. Fairly recently @Fatfurious2 had some electrical issues, and he remove his.
Was wandering if there was any correlation
Was wandering if there was any correlation
Yep, check that 7.5a when you get home. Bet it's blown.
No voltage booster and hopefully don’t need one.
At lease I know which fuse to look at.