Slim-Whitey

Canadian hoser, Eh?
Know it all snowfake
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Re: t case

Get a 2500/3500 floor shift. It'll be a np271. You are never actually going to break a 271, it'll have the right speedo output (if it isn't on the rear diff), and it'll bolt to the diff.

When going 6.0, don't shy away from the 6 speed 07+ trucks. The 6l90 is a very "standalone" transmission, with the TCM actually located INSIDE the valve body. That makes it simple to swap in and if you keep the factory harness, it'll work.
Should be noted that if you don't go with the factory 271, the 6l90 shares the same 32 spline output as the 4l80, and the same 6 bolt round stud pattern.

The l96 6.0 (07+ I believe) is rated at 360hp. An LQ9 is rated lower than that.
By the time you get a set of headers on it and tune it, you'll be running 385hp. Maybe more. A stock LS3 does 430.

And you will very likely need headers, and will DEFINITELY need a tune to first and foremost get rid of the vehicle anti theft system which will have a fit if you don't use the factory steering column.

One thing to remember is that when you tune these things, you can essentially tell the engine computer and transmission computer what to ignore,and what to listen to.

You can make the engine ignore all input from the transmission control module, and bolt up a manual transmission if you like.

You can run a manual valve body and tell the TCM to ignore the information from the ecu.

It's all possible.

I saw a Ford 8.8 ifs mentioned as well. Just a note on those.
An 8.8 is significantly stronger than a D44, despite being the same size of ring. The hypoid offset in the pumpkin on an 8.8 is huge, which makes for a large pinion head, no carrier breaks, and a huge selection of gearing options.
 
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AssBurns

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@Slim-Whitey while that is a ton of good information, and I appreciate you sharing all that info; not much of it applies to my build. I am buying the LQ4, 4L80E, NP203/205 doubler with the NWF adapter. For the T-case, I plan to most likely just get the NWF triple stick kit.
For the trans, I will be leaving the 4L80e stock (no manual valve body), and either modifying the stock toyota 4 speed automatic floor shifter to work, or going with the RAD Designs manual control shifter kit (or something similar)
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
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For the trans, I will be leaving the 4L80e stock (no manual valve body), and either modifying the stock toyota 4 speed automatic floor shifter to work, or going with the RAD Designs manual control shifter kit (or something similar)

Just modify the stock shifter. It's just a linkage that can't be very hard to fab up. Hell, depending on where the new trans sits in relation to the old you may be able to get away with just bending the current linkage rod. Are you putting dualsin this thing? I thought I read somewhere those came in the package you where buying.
 

AssBurns

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Just modify the stock shifter. It's just a linkage that can't be very hard to fab up. Hell, depending on where the new trans sits in relation to the old you may be able to get away with just bending the current linkage rod. Are you putting dualsin this thing? I thought I read somewhere those came in the package you where buying.
I am really liking the idea of just reusing the stock shifter for the trans in order to save some money and put that money towards suspension and axles. The RAD designs shifter is nice and all, but it's like $400 after shipping.

Yeah I will have the NP203/205 combo with the North West Fab adapter. Here is a pic I got from Caleb.
http://www.northwestfab.com/Ford-NP205-to-GM-6-Bolt-Adapter_p_1899.html

T-case.jpg
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
Fredo Baggins
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I am really liking the idea of just reusing the stock shifter for the trans in order to save some money and put that money towards suspension and axles. The RAD designs shifter is nice and all, but it's like $400 after shipping.

Yeah I will have the NP203/205 combo with the North West Fab adapter. Here is a pic I got from Caleb.
http://www.northwestfab.com/Ford-NP205-to-GM-6-Bolt-Adapter_p_1899.html

View attachment 21396


If you get this done you'll be the only 3rd Gen with V8 and dual cases that I know of. Might as well stuff 37's under there while your at it. lol
 

AssBurns

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If you get this done you'll be the only 3rd Gen with V8 and dual cases that I know of. Might as well stuff 37's under there while your at it. lol
I'll probably skip the whole 37's thing. I don't have axles that are strong enough as it is. The plan is Ford 9" front and rear. Once I get those installed, it'll be 39's or 40's. I'll have the drivetrain and power to push em at that point. Just need another $30k lol
 
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A buddy of mine did this to his Nissan a few years ago. He pretty much took everything out of a chevy truck and put it in a nissan hardbody including the dash, steering column and gas tank. Lots of modifications were done and it's still his daily driver today. He did it that way because it was easier to make everything work together and be functional.

http://mississippi-mud.com/thread-19965.html
 
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So shifters... Do I go with something like this RAD designs shifter or do I modify the stock toyota shifter to work with the 4L80E?
http://www.radesignsproducts.com/winters-elec.-control-kits.html

Is it even worth going with something like RAD designs? I know @malburg114 runs one in his rig. What are your thoughts on it?
With no background of what’s being discussed (besides the title) and the purpose of the rig, I’ll still give my review of the shifter. My truck is a full bodied crawler that I rarely drive on the street except to local trails(100 miles less round trip) or through the town of moab/hurricane to get the trail head park. Besides that, and the occasional ice cream run, my truck is trailered. The winters shifter is super nice for crawling and made a huge difference in just desert running in general. Being able to lock the truck in gear and rev a little more or down shift when needed or get more speed to bump a ledge. Overall the shifter made the truck more controllable. I haven’t wired the tc switch or the auto to manual switch but that’s more cause I’m scared to the cut the transmission harness hahah
 
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