Lockers (Pro's and Con's of each type)

[WileECoyote]

Same with 3rd gens. It's the weak E-Locker or the not much stronger standard 8"

You only need to regear just the front and rear diffs. You can't regear the transfer case on our chain driven cases. Whatever ratio you decide on, you need to match front and rear.

Also don't waste your time regearing to 4.56. With a 4cyl and auto, you'll probably want 4.88 if you are going to stick with 33's. If you are going to jump to 35's, you'll want 5.29 gears.

Reread what he wrote...

Would 4.88 help with overall "power/torque" on 31 10.50's? Help with the low end when it comes to "crawling", if you get my meaning. I really don't plan on going past 31's for tire size. My main thing is radios. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA But yeah, I just want to build my truck up to better than stock is the ultimate goal.

King or Icon coil overs non-resi (prefer extended travel)
King or Icon rear resi-shocks (prefer extended travel)
Camburg UCA
AP Std Leaf pack
better rear bump stops and hopefully the front bumps also (aftermarkets apparently don't exist for my year truck for the front)
AP Wrap around rear bumper
sliders (for a reg cab, of course)
and thinking about SOME engine tuning
15x7 or 8 Black Rock Wheels (I want to stick with steelies)
31x10.50r15 tires (I already have my Firestone Destination AT's... bought them a while back and just never got to mount them yet as I'm waiting to purchase my wheels first)

That's roughly about it.

Other than that, my answers are more or less this regarding the regearing.

 

[WileECoyote]

I look younger than you

I F'N SWEAR this guy!!!

 

[WileECoyote]

I personally wouldn't put an LSD up front. Sort of a waste IMO. If I need the front end to do what I wanted, I'd lock it. There are benefits to LSD up front but I feel it would be better to have a locker. Personal preference though. With an LSD, it will definitely help with offroad, but it's still not actually locked when you need it. Plus i don't know if they even make LSD for the 7.5" clamshell front

Well, I will just do the rear for now as that is, the very least, I would like to do anyways. I can decide on the front at a later time.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

1st gen Tacos had 8.4” rear diff unless e-lock’d, which is the 8” diff. Some 1st gen Tacoma’s actually were offered with factory 4.56 gears, so if you wanna just swap in used ones and save some cash instead of having them set up by ECGS, that’s an option. The only problem is they’re extremely hard to find from what I remember. Here’s a helpful link on gear codes and what not.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tacoma-gearing-question.199061/

 

[4runner DOA]

I look younger than you

Until those Asian genes kick in. You'll go from looking like 30 to looking like 70 overnight.


Okay enough shitting up this thread. Back to locker and gear talk.

 

[WileECoyote]

1st gen Tacos had 8.4” rear diff unless e-lock’d, which is the 8” diff. Some 1st gen Tacoma’s actually were offered with factory 4.56 gears, so if you wanna just swap in used ones and save some cash instead of having them set up by ECGS, that’s an option. The only problem is they’re extremely hard to find from what I remember. Here’s a helpful link on gear codes and what not.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tacoma-gearing-question.199061/

Thank you brotha and everyone.

Here is what I found for a Tacoma 8.4" these are the p/n: (Summit Racing's website)
Tacoma (front): Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differentials 52890
Tacoma (rear): Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differentials 52493

Also, I was just watching some vids about the LSD's on Summit Racing's website.

 

[AssBurns]

Would 4.88 help with overall "power/torque" on 31 10.50's? Help with the low end when it comes to "crawling", if you get my meaning. I really don't plan on going past 31's for tire size. My main thing is radios. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA But yeah, I just want to build my truck up to better than stock is the ultimate goal.

King or Icon coil overs non-resi (prefer extended travel)
King or Icon rear resi-shocks (prefer extended travel)
Camburg UCA
AP Std Leaf pack
better rear bump stops and hopefully the front bumps also (aftermarkets apparently don't exist for my year truck for the front)
AP Wrap around rear bumper
sliders (for a reg cab, of course)
and thinking about SOME engine tuning
15x7 or 8 Black Rock Wheels (I want to stick with steelies)
31x10.50r15 tires (I already have my Firestone Destination AT's... bought them a while back and just never got to mount them yet as I'm waiting to purchase my wheels first)

That's roughly about it.

Other than that, my answers are more or less this regarding the regearing.

If you are sticking with 31's, I wouldn't really waste the money on gears if all you are doing is a rear locker. 4.10's are already setup for 31's. 4.56's will be a nice improvement in torque, but you'll be at higher RPM's at higher speeds. Play with this calculator and see where each gear set puts you. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
I think we have the Toyota A340F trans.

 

[WileECoyote]

If you are sticking with 31's, I wouldn't really waste the money on gears if all you are doing is a rear locker. 4.10's are already setup for 31's. 4.56's will be a nice improvement in torque, but you'll be at higher RPM's at higher speeds. Play with this calculator and see where each gear set puts you. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
I think we have the Toyota A340F trans.

My truck setup from the factory:

NOTE: I actually have P235/75R15 Firestone Destination AT's on and have gotten me to some places for sure and I like them


HAHAHAHA, watching a YT vid right now regearing and it looks pretty involved with tools I don't even have or homemade pullers. I will likely settle, if I decide on it, to just hunt down a 4.56 already used in a junkyard, if possible.

Anyways, yeah, I will just settle with what I have for now and do things as it comes.

That calculator is SICK!!! HAHAHAHAHA, I don't know what some of those numbers mean, but I'll do some studying.

Thanks man and everyone!!! I really do appreciate the help. Now for some more studying now that I have some basic understanding I can continue from here!!!

 

[theesotericone]

My truck setup from the factory:

NOTE: I actually have P235/75R15 Firestone Destination AT's on and have gotten me to some places for sure and I like them
View attachment 4636

HAHAHAHA, watching a YT vid right now regearing and it looks pretty involved with tools I don't even have or homemade pullers. I will likely settle, if I decide on it, to just hunt down a 4.56 already used in a junkyard, if possible.

Anyways, yeah, I will just settle with what I have for now and do things as it comes.

That calculator is SICK!!! HAHAHAHAHA, I don't know what some of those numbers mean, but I'll do some studying.

Thanks man and everyone!!! I really do appreciate the help. Now for some more studying now that I have some basic understanding I can continue from here!!!

Gear calculators are great and are pretty useful for getting a baseline. What's more useful though is doing your own math. In your case it's easy. Cruise down the highway at 70, 75, 80 whatever. Note your RPM's at any given speed.

Now the math:

New gear number/old gear number=A

A x RPM's=New RPM's

It's dead nuts accurate.

 

[4runner DOA]

My truck setup from the factory:

NOTE: I actually have P235/75R15 Firestone Destination AT's on and have gotten me to some places for sure and I like them
View attachment 4636

HAHAHAHA, watching a YT vid right now regearing and it looks pretty involved with tools I don't even have or homemade pullers. I will likely settle, if I decide on it, to just hunt down a 4.56 already used in a junkyard, if possible.

Anyways, yeah, I will just settle with what I have for now and do things as it comes.

That calculator is SICK!!! HAHAHAHAHA, I don't know what some of those numbers mean, but I'll do some studying.

Thanks man and everyone!!! I really do appreciate the help. Now for some more studying now that I have some basic understanding I can continue from here!!!

I'm gonna regear my spare 3rd, I'll let you know how much it sucks. Hahaha.

 

[Rapier46]

arb- seals always fucking leak in winter.

 

[4runner DOA]

arb- seals always fucking leak in winter.

My seals are fine. The copper line on the other hand I've had terrible experience with.

 

[Rapier46]

My seals are fine. The copper line on the other hand I've had terrible experience with.

The seals inside the diff have leaked on every arb Ive had

 

[4runner DOA]

The seals inside the diff have leaked on every arb Ive had

How new is your locker? They had a couple bad batches over the last few years. We need to swap @PermaBan again for the second time under warranty because of bad seals.

 

[WileECoyote]

Gear calculators are great and are pretty useful for getting a baseline. What's more useful though is doing your own math. In your case it's easy. Cruise down the highway at 70, 75, 80 whatever. Note your RPM's at any given speed.

Now the math:

New gear number/old gear number=A

A x RPM's=New RPM's

It's dead nuts accurate.

I have a scan tool that can do "live data". It's an older scanner, but I like it. Worked for me so far when "I" needed it for a CEL a few years back.

Anyways, I'll remember to check this out as starters. Thanks brotha!!! I got some super good info today!!! Plus YT SCURRED the SHI* outta me watching that guy work on the rear diff!!! HAHAHAHA

 

[Rapier46]

How new is your locker? They had a couple bad batches over the last few years. We need to swap @PermaBan again for the second time under warranty because of bad seals.

Both lockers on my white truck, rear on my big dick dodge, and the front on my current Tacoma. Not all installed by the same people


Only even leak in cold cold

 

[4runner DOA]

Both lockers on my white truck, rear on my big dick dodge, and the front on my current Tacoma. Not all installed by the same people


Only even leak in cold cold

Wild. Didn't really see that many issues with the seals until the last year. I know @Tetten just changed his rear seals recently.

 

[rkntoy]

Everyone I wheel with that has ARBs has leaks. Why I went with an Aussie in front of mine and a Spartan in Carson's Taco.

The TrueTrac isn't bad - way better than a clutch type LS. What are you using the rig for?

With the TrueTracs you can fake them in to locking up by riding the brake a little. Much easier with an auto. That said, I paired one in the front with a Detroit Locker in back in one of my 1st Gen 4runners and it worked pretty well.

 

[4runner DOA]

Everyone I wheel with that has ARBs has leaks. Why I went with an Aussie in front of mine and a Spartan in Carson's Taco.

The TrueTrac isn't bad - way better than a clutch type LS. What are you using the rig for?

With the TrueTracs you can fake them in to locking up by riding the brake a little. Much easier with an auto. That said, I paired one in the front with a Detroit Locker in back in one of my 1st Gen 4runners and it worked pretty well.

If I keep having issues with my ARB I'm tempted retrofit the FJ rear 3rd with e-locker into mine, but right now it's been install error on my part pushing the copper line into the gears and chewing it up. Have had no issues at all with my front, other than my diff puking gear oil out my breather in the engine bay.

 

[Theblackflag]

I guess I'm a rare case but other than the initial issue on ARBs end I've had zero problems with both of mine. I for one would hate having an auto locker up front and even in the rear for snow driving. I like the instant on off the air lockers give me. Are they kinda finicky if you don't set them up right? Absolutely. But done right they last and last in my experiences and are hands down the strongest locker out there.