Marlin Rock Crawler Long Travel

madtaco461

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So that is assuming keeping the stock width, or with +2" wider too?

I need measurements to get a better idea. I have no idea how long a stock CV is and max angle of articulation it can handle. Once I have those 2 numbers I can get better results. You can see down by the hub end on my last sketch where I get a bunch of negative camber popping into my 5 lug geometry, I don't have that accounted for.

With long travel on toyotas you don't gain too much droop. All that travel is in by adding more up travel. Cutting out that coil bucket helps too.
how-do-you-measure-irs-axle-length-for-micro-stub-and-midboard-micro-stub-disc-brakes.jpg
 

Blender

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I need measurements to get a better idea. I have no idea how long a stock CV is and max angle of articulation it can handle. Once I have those 2 numbers I can get better results. You can see down by the hub end on my last sketch where I get a bunch of negative camber popping into my 5 lug geometry, I don't have that accounted for.

With long travel on toyotas you don't gain too much droop. All that travel is in by adding more up travel. Cutting out that coil bucket helps too.
how-do-you-measure-irs-axle-length-for-micro-stub-and-midboard-micro-stub-disc-brakes.jpg

best gen tundra: my oem outer has ~31 deg travel. The inner is broken on that one so I can't measure. I suspect plunge position determines allowable angle.

Roughly 16" c-c from inner joint to outer joint stock.

I can measure my intact LT axle tomorrow. I don't wanna put on pants to get it out of the truck.
 

4runner DOA

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best gen tundra: my oem outer has ~31 deg travel. The inner is broken on that one so I can't measure. I suspect plunge position determines allowable angle.

Roughly 16" c-c from inner joint to outer joint stock.

I can measure my intact LT axle tomorrow. I don't wanna put on pants to get it out of the truck.

Who needs pants. Just give the neighbors a show. Shit, the stoner fat as fuck college kid that used to live next door would take the trash out in his tighty whiteys. The neighborhood kids nicknamed him captain underpants.
 

madtaco461

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Well if I stick with my 30* it keeps my math easy. Sine 30* is 1/2.
Pythag theory math below.
CV length = max allowable travel. 19 is a 3 over kit roughly.
2 over is 18". Offset 2" you get 17.54"
Stock is 16". Offset 2" you get 15.49"

So ideal case 50/50 up/down travel you only loose roughly 1/2" travel ignoring steering angle and camber changes through your travel.
 

Blender

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Well if I stick with my 30* it keeps my math easy. Sine 30* is 1/2.
Pythag theory math below.
CV length = max allowable travel. 19 is a 3 over kit roughly.
2 over is 18". Offset 2" you get 17.54"
Stock is 16". Offset 2" you get 15.49"

So ideal case 50/50 up/down travel you only loose roughly 1/2" travel ignoring steering angle and camber changes through your travel.

I'd make that trade all day, everyday
 
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That's a pretty impressive hit to shear the steel like that, I'm surprised the wheel didn't fail too. Probably still needs to be beefed up though if it failed like that.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Well if I stick with my 30* it keeps my math easy. Sine 30* is 1/2.
Pythag theory math below.
CV length = max allowable travel. 19 is a 3 over kit roughly.
2 over is 18". Offset 2" you get 17.54"
Stock is 16". Offset 2" you get 15.49"

So ideal case 50/50 up/down travel you only loose roughly 1/2" travel ignoring steering angle and camber changes through your travel.
Well steering is going to be a factor too since it's pushed forward, and the CV angle changes quickly once you mix steering with droop or compression angles. outer CV's have roughly 45* max angle, right? Pushing things forward could cause the steering or travel loss. I'd take travel loss to keep the steering happy. Especially for crawling.
Nah. It blows up steering racks from all the compression.
See this? Could be a good solution for that problem.
IMG_1009.PNG
IMG_1018 (Edited).jpg
Shame that it broke. Also never use the word "amazing" when describing anything manly. It makes it unmanly.
It's amazing that I don't feel the same way. I say amazing all the time. Now I'm going to be all self conscious saying it hahah :rofl:
 

madtaco461

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Well steering is going to be a factor too since it's pushed forward, and the CV angle changes quickly once you mix steering with droop or compression angles. outer CV's have roughly 45* max angle, right? Pushing things forward could cause the steering or travel loss. I'd take travel loss to keep the steering happy. Especially for crawling.

See this? Could be a good solution for that problem.
View attachment 4076
View attachment 4077

It's amazing that I don't feel the same way. I say amazing all the time. Now I'm going to be all self conscious saying it hahah :rofl:
I saw his rack slider. Cleanest /strongest one I've seen. One of those have been on my mind.

Pushing forward does eat up steering angle too. I lack 4wd, but I know mathz. You loose 6* full turn each way. If it was a 2" over 2" forward kit. It's just like your 4 link with all the compromises you take.
 
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12000+ after tax and still has the shitty 8" clamshell.

I was roughly thinking about getting it if it was closer to 5k but I can link the rear with bypasses and a sway bar equal or less than the base kit cost. :rofl:
 

4runner DOA

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12000+ after tax and still has the shitty 8" clamshell.

I was roughly thinking about getting it if it was closer to 5k but I can link the rear with bypasses and a sway bar equal or less than the base kit cost. :rofl:

I was thinking for another 8-10k I can SAS and rock crawl better. The price isn't terrible for the masses of overlenders that are going to buy it and pay someone to install it, but for the price, if I wanted LT the usual kits are cheaper.
 
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