Moving Battery To Rear/Wiring

AssBurns

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#22
Build it into the side compartment at passenger rear?
I could do that, but I’d have to relocate my compressor somewhere else. Building it into the cargo boxes/drawers shouldn’t be an issue really. I’ll just put it behind the drawers or in the back corner of the drawer. Shouldn’t really be in the way.
 

AssBurns

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#23
@snivilous ever look at what size circuit breaker you ran? Did you run the starter through that as well?



Also, still wondering on battery size and model. I’ll be going with a Deka AGM, but debating if I should go with a deep cycle or regular starting battery. Any cons to a deep cycle besides cost? Should I go with the biggest size I can, or would a group 34 be fine. Pretty sure that’s what I have currently and seems to be pretty standard.



I may just reuse my current battery box that uses a diagonal hold down, or I may modify it for an over-the-top bolt down st
 

Theblackflag

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#24
I have had a deep cycle agm for a little over a year. Haven't really seen any downsides other than the initial cost. My philosophy with batteries is you can never have enough. Especially when running a winch. Iirc my battery is an h8, group 49? That's ratted at 1000 cca and 95 reserve hours. I've ran a lot of long hard winch pulls with no issues and also ran all my lights, radio, and power inverter overnight and it didn't even touch the capacity on the battery
 

AssBurns

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#25
I have had a deep cycle agm for a little over a year. Haven't really seen any downsides other than the initial cost. My philosophy with batteries is you can never have enough. Especially when running a winch. Iirc my battery is an h8, group 49? That's ratted at 1000 cca and 95 reserve hours. I've ran a lot of long hard winch pulls with no issues and also ran all my lights, radio, and power inverter overnight and it didn't even touch the capacity on the battery
Damn that's a big battery. I had a group 27 battery that was a little taller and not as long, and that was a big bitch. I now have a 24F (Confirmed it by reading the chart I had went I downsized from the 27). I'm not entirely sure I need a deep cycle, but I'd eventually like a fridge, and a deep cycle should keep the battery happier for longer. I'll check my cost difference between the two, and go from there.
I don't need any super high CCA's, since I'm very rarely in anything below like 30*. Hopefully the deep cycle isn't too much more cost than the standard starting battery.
 

Theblackflag

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#26
Yeah it's a big bitch. Like 13x7x7 I think. And at least 60lbs but it works awesome. It was around 200 with a 3 year warranty when I got it from AutoZone
 

AssBurns

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#27
Yeah it's a big bitch. Like 13x7x7 I think. And at least 60lbs but it works awesome. It was around 200 with a 3 year warranty when I got it from AutoZone
I'm hoping to try to save weight wherever possible, but a battery is sometimes worth it to have a decent sized one. I'll probably end up sticking with a group 24 still. It's kind of a happy medium of size. I'd like to go with a small battery, but I'd rather keep some battery power with something larger.
 

AssBurns

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#28
Alright I am back to this thread again. Here's the rough draft plan for the moment. I want to get your guys' opinions first.

Battery will be a group 24, most likely standard starting battery, not deep cycle (unless I can be convinced otherwise that deep cycle is the way to go)

I plan on mounting the battery in a 3/4" MDF box in the back cargo (Something that isn't conductive) with metal hold down straps. I thought about those plastic battery boxes, but they just don't seem sturdy enough IMO. There will be a lid on a hinge with a 100A circuit breaker mounted on it for easy access.

I think 1/0 Battery Cable should be enough, right? I think around 15' positive lead to remote battery terminals under the hood would be ideal. Then just run a fusebox and winch leads to the remote terminals. For the ground I will just do a lead from the battery to the frame, then a remote terminal off of the engine cage under the hood.
 

4runner DOA

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#29
1/0 should be more than enough. The only reason I'd go deep cycle is for extra winch power or running a fridge without a dual setup.
 

AssBurns

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#30
So just to update this. I went with 2/0 battery cable all the way from the engine bay to the rear cargo area. Ended up using about 19' of cable. I think 2/0 is plenty to handle the loads I'll be putting on it, with some room to spare. I also went with a 150A circuit breaker about 8" from the battery. I HOPE that 150A is enough. We'll see once I do some hard winch pulls. If it trips the breaker, I have the room to swap battery cables and bypass the breaker. If it trips, then I'll go to a higher amperage breaker as needed.
 
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#31
So just to update this. I went with 2/0 battery cable all the way from the engine bay to the rear cargo area. Ended up using about 19' of cable. I think 2/0 is plenty to handle the loads I'll be putting on it, with some room to spare. I also went with a 150A circuit breaker about 8" from the battery. I HOPE that 150A is enough. We'll see once I do some hard winch pulls. If it trips the breaker, I have the room to swap battery cables and bypass the breaker. If it trips, then I'll go to a higher amperage breaker as needed.
:popcorn2:
So, how is this setup working out for you?
 

AssBurns

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#32
:popcorn2:
So, how is this setup working out for you?
Still haven't winched with this setup, but its working pretty good overall. I like using a tow strap over a winch whenever possible since it's way easier and faster.

I should try winching to see how the breaker works out.
 
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#33
Alright. I'm curious about winching since I came across info that Winches could draw upwards of 300 Amps depending on winch and conditions. Of course all info found on interwebs, so it must be true :suspicious:
 

AssBurns

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#34
Alright. I'm curious about winching since I came across info that Winches could draw upwards of 300 Amps depending on winch and conditions. Of course all info found on interwebs, so it must be true :suspicious:
Winches do draw that much, but only at high loads, which you really shouldn't be doing anyways. Use a snatch block and it helps drastically on the amperage loads. Also a 150A breaker can take more than 150 amps for a short period of time. Just got to be mindful of this when using your winch.

Here's a chart from the Warn VR-10s winch I have.

1581724203998.png


And here is the chart for the 150A circuit breaker I have.

1581724229776.png


So basically I can pull 8,000lbs for about 5 seconds, but if I used a snatch block I can pull the same amount for 15 seconds. I think I should probably step up to a 200A breaker. That would give me about double the winch time without a snatch block, and well over double with a snatch block.
 
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#36
Winches do draw that much, but only at high loads, which you really shouldn't be doing anyways. Use a snatch block and it helps drastically on the amperage loads. Also a 150A breaker can take more than 150 amps for a short period of time. Just got to be mindful of this when using your winch.

Here's a chart from the Warn VR-10s winch I have.

View attachment 18956


And here is the chart for the 150A circuit breaker I have.

View attachment 18957


So basically I can pull 8,000lbs for about 5 seconds, but if I used a snatch block I can pull the same amount for 15 seconds. I think I should probably step up to a 200A breaker. That would give me about double the winch time without a snatch block, and well over double with a snatch block.
Good stuff!! :thumbsup:
 
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#37
Hey cap, just occurred to me. Your breaker amps are to protect the wire. The wire is rated for a certain amperage, just breaker just needs to be below the wire’s Reyes amps. I don’t know wire ratings off top. But the iteewebs are full of good stuff. Great job man. It’s sound very nice
 
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#38
Hey cap, just occurred to me. Your breaker amps are to protect the wire. The wire is rated for a certain amperage, just breaker just needs to be below the wire’s Reyes amps. I don’t know wire ratings off top. But the iteewebs are full of good stuff. Great job man. It’s sound very nice
Here's a handy chart with wire size and length /Amp rating
BC17A70E-DA0F-4971-AAA6-099B9A72D066.jpg
 

theesotericone

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#39

AssBurns

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#40
I bet you blow that breaker on your first winch pull. 150A is way to low for a winch load. Get a Blue Sea disconnect. 350A constant/600A intermittent. It pulled me up Claw Hammer. lol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMC914/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You might be right. I need to test it out.

yeah no way my breaker will keep up with any sort of long winch pulls. I’ll try to test out the winch somewhere tomorrow to see what’s up.
 

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