Multimode Tcase actuator rebuild?

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My dumb ass drove through a deep river the other day without realizing the tcase actuator vent tube was off and I'm pretty sure I killed my actuator. Still need to do some troubleshooting to confirm it, but so far the position switches are testing good and it's acting like the actuator doesn't want to move.

Can a 2001-2002 multimode actuator be replaced without dropping and splitting the transfer case? I found a great youtube video where a kid was able to do this with an older multimode case by pulling the little triangular cover over the actuator pinion gear and removing that to free the whole thing from the shift rod, but mine doesn't have that cover, so I can't get the actuator off the shift rod that way. That little gear had to go in somehow though, and as best I can tell it goes in under the big spur gear with the electrical contacts on it.

Anyone tried this, or am I rebuilding a transfer case in my driveway?
 

4runner DOA

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I know the 4th gen one is tricky as fuck because of the center diff. The gears and the pins have to be in exactly the right spot when it's put back together or else you'll never have 4low or a locked center again. Most guys end up cracking the case and replacing the actuator because it's easier.

No clue on a 3rd gen.
 
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only pulled them off with the access panel. The 01-02 list 7.7hrs to replace said and require R&R of the Tcase to accomplish said.
 

AssBurns

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I replaced mine on my 99 but it still didn't solve my problems. It's not too hard to replace but you have to make sure the gears are in the correct position or else it won't work. It's an electrical issue not the actuator that is the problem. I'm just going to swap it to a J shift case since that is more reliable anyways and I really don't need multi-mode. AWD is nice but I rarely would need it.
 
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Well, I dumped 2 or 3 ounces of water out of the actuator motor cover, so that'd be the problem.

But, I took the motor apart and cleaned the commutator/brushes and all the rotary contacts in the case. They're pretty pitted from either arcing or corrosion, but some 800 grit sandpaper, MAF sensor cleaner, and white lithium grease later and this shit works again. Not sure for how long, but it works great.

Also, I gently tugged on the spur gear with the electrical contacts that's attached to the pinion/shift rod and got a face full of gear oil, so I think you can probably get that little pinion gear out that way and then pull the actuator off the shift rod without splitting the case. Timing it when you put it back together looks like it'd be a bitch, but if it'll come off like that, it's doable and WAY cheaper than splitting the case.
 

AssBurns

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Well, I dumped 2 or 3 ounces of water out of the actuator motor cover, so that'd be the problem.

But, I took the motor apart and cleaned the commutator/brushes and all the rotary contacts in the case. They're pretty pitted from either arcing or corrosion, but some 800 grit sandpaper, MAF sensor cleaner, and white lithium grease later and this shit works again. Not sure for how long, but it works great.

Also, I gently tugged on the spur gear with the electrical contacts that's attached to the pinion/shift rod and got a face full of gear oil, so I think you can probably get that little pinion gear out that way and then pull the actuator off the shift rod without splitting the case. Timing it when you put it back together looks like it'd be a bitch, but if it'll come off like that, it's doable and WAY cheaper than splitting the case.
Well that's good news! Hopefully it stays working for you.
Yeah that little spur gear comes off. It's more of a pain coming off than going back on. Once that is off the actuator slides right off the case.
 
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Hell yeah. I mean it makes sense, how else would they assemble the thing if not like that?

SO much easier than changing a transfer case.
 

4runner DOA

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Well, I dumped 2 or 3 ounces of water out of the actuator motor cover, so that'd be the problem.

But, I took the motor apart and cleaned the commutator/brushes and all the rotary contacts in the case. They're pretty pitted from either arcing or corrosion, but some 800 grit sandpaper, MAF sensor cleaner, and white lithium grease later and this shit works again. Not sure for how long, but it works great.

Also, I gently tugged on the spur gear with the electrical contacts that's attached to the pinion/shift rod and got a face full of gear oil, so I think you can probably get that little pinion gear out that way and then pull the actuator off the shift rod without splitting the case. Timing it when you put it back together looks like it'd be a bitch, but if it'll come off like that, it's doable and WAY cheaper than splitting the case.

That's lucky. When I fried my transfer case the first thing I did was check the actuator, as soon as you pop the cover, there's one spur gear that likes to fall out on the 4th gen if you're not careful. Then it's game over. Couldn't move the shift forks (later found to be stripped/broken gears inside the case) so I ended up buying a used tcase with actuator attached.
 

4runner DOA

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You caused both to happen simultaneously. One likely didn't cause the other...

Hard to say. Center diff would still be turning even with the rear busted, rear should still be turning if the center diff was busted. Center diff gears are what I toasted in the tcase. 4low gears were still intact. I didn't get very far in fwd before tcase gave up and we had to tow the rest of the way back to camp in neutral with my 3rd pulled. I couldn't even go into gear without crazy grinding. Thought I killed my transmission.

When I replaced everything I was stuck in 4low with the center diff engaged. I wanna say I eventually got it back into 4hi, but never could get the center diff to unlock, and that's when I started trouble shooting the tcase.
 
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