Pavement Princess and MallCrawler Gladiator Build

[Arcticelf]

Wow, what a travesty..sorry for the hassle and headache.

Is the dealer doing an oil consumption test? My gf got her engine replaced under warranty by Subaru after hers failed one...

It's life. I didn't buy a Honda Civic on purpose.

Yup, oil use test is in progress,

 

[Arcticelf]

Thanks @TwistedTLM4 king bumps and dobinson spring in the front.

 

[Arcticelf]

Well that made all the difference, OEM front coils were not just worn out, but also under-spec from jump. I also need more rebound valving, the higher spring rate is too much for the Rubicon shocks to handle.

 

[Stairgod]

Well that made all the difference, OEM front coils were not just worn out, but also under-spec from jump. I also need more rebound valving, the higher spring rate is too much for the Rubicon shocks to handle.

Duh.
You are too smart to think that changing spring rate wouldn't necessitate a change in shock valving.

Meanwhile my dumbass is running stock Rubicon shocks with heavier coils....

 

[Arcticelf]

Duh.
You are too smart to think that changing spring rate wouldn't necessitate a change in shock valving.

Meanwhile my dumbass is running stock Rubicon shocks with heavier coils....

What's surprising is that compression valving seems to be okay. With the OEM springs I was thinking I needed bypass shocks, but with the heavier springs front and rear I'm thinking a 2" smoothie should dial it in nicely; although bypasses would still be nice.

 

[Stairgod]

What's surprising is that compression valving seems to be okay. With the OEM springs I was thinking I needed bypass shocks, but with the heavier springs front and rear I'm thinking a 2" smoothie should dial it in nicely; although bypasses would still be nice.

Common wisdom is that compression valving needs to be lightened up when spring rate is increased?
I can honestly say that my compression valving doesn't need near as much tweaking as my rebound.

 

[Arcticelf]

Common wisdom is that compression valving needs to be lightened up when spring rate is increased?
I can honestly say that my compression valving doesn't need near as much tweaking as my rebound.

It depends if the vehicle weight (sprung and un-spring) is changing too. If everything except spring rate is constant you'd need more rebound damping and less compression damping to keep the ride quality consistent.

In my case I needed more spring rate to account for increased weight, both to gain ride height and to avoid bottoming out the suspension.

I'll have to take it out to RC or AOAA and do some more testing before I change the shocks, all I have is curbs and speedbumps for data now.

 

[Stairgod]

It depends if the vehicle weight (sprung and un-spring) is changing too. If everything except spring rate is constant you'd need more rebound damping and less compression damping to keep the ride quality consistent.

In my case I needed more spring rate to account for increased weight, both to gain ride height and to avoid bottoming out the suspension.

I'll have to take it out to RC or AOAA and do some more testing before I change the shocks, all I have is curbs and speedbumps for data now.

Your property is a little tight for speed runs...lol

 

[Arcticelf]

Finished the tire carrier, added a hoop for my lightbar on the front, and found a new way to use the mag drill.

 

[Stairgod]

Can see where an annular cutter would be way better than an hole saw for that

 

[Arcticelf]

Adjustable length front LCAs, set about 1/2" longer than OEM definitely help with the front end stability and death wobble.

@HolyHandGrenade try turning up your caster to see if that let's it drive without a steering stabilizer.

 

[Stairgod]

I added the Mopar LCAs from their 2" lift. The added caster definitely helped.

 

[Arcticelf]

I call this the: fuck you EPA mod.
Remove the secondary battery solenoid.
Remove the bullshit secondary battery.

Secure the ground wire using a battery box screw.
Connect the three hot wires (two from the solenoid, one from the secondary battery) using a nut from the solenoid and a bolt from the battery box. Then insulate with electrical tape.

Optional: drink a whiskey and cuss at commies and hippies and shitty engineers who fuck everything up.

Total time is about 90 minutes, including remove and install of fender, not including optional whiskey and cussing steps.

Now your truck won't die when the bullshit motorcycle battery dies and cuts off the power supply to all the vehicles electronics.

 

[Arcticelf]

Time to upgrade the boy's ride a bit.

Miata CVs, spool, reverse gear, and trailing arms. Adds a bunch of ground clearance, sacrifices wheel base.

 

[Arcticelf]

Back on its own weight

 

[Arcticelf]

Oops.

 

[Arcticelf]

We went wheeling. I'll post a carnage picture later

 

[Arcticelf]

It's life. I didn't buy a Honda Civic on purpose.

Yup, oil use test is in progress,

Welp, oil use test passed. Mostly because the allowable oil use is 1 quart per 1,500 miles!! Legendary Mopar reliability

 

[Arcticelf]

@Stairgod apparently 3/8 hardware isn't strong enough for a kids buggy.

 

[Arcticelf]

If I've got 99 problems, Mopar engineering is responsible for at least 45 of them. All this bullshit just to access the right bank of plugs.


Might as well put a supercharger in there next time I have to change them.