it really is a can of worms leaving oem width. The only part that gets less strain is your cv angles lol
Plastics Guy DuroBumps and a little more
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it really is a can of worms leaving oem width. The only part that gets less strain is your cv angles lol
Itaro
Seriously, FJB
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Some people are happy with 8-9”
Some people are happy with 8-9”
You must be terribly sad then.
I don't wanna long travel the 4runner so secondaries it is for me. The 2wd taco is for long travel some day.
Itaro
Seriously, FJB
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Refer to my previous statement
My wife is happy with less :shrug:Some people are happy with 8-9”
I've managed to fuck up one of my rear fancy duro bumps, supposedly because my Dakars are shot. Which totally sucks, especially that I rarely ever get to get out... Anyways, tor now I'm running my old Timbrens in the rear , and damn! What a difference !!
I want to go back to Duro Bumps, but have to figure out what to do with the leafs/suspension before I do that
I want to go back to Duro Bumps, but have to figure out what to do with the leafs/suspension before I do that
Wonder how you managed to do that to those bumps.
Either way, give DuroBumps a call or email and they'll help get it corrected. They've got some great customer service.
I bottom out in the rear so much I'm surprised mine are still intact. One is tearing, the other looked okay last time I had the wheels off. Not sure even wheelers would stand up to my abuse right now. Fronts are fine.
I got skills and a little talent!
Probably dumb luck tho
Yeah I already emailed with Curtis about it a little while ago, and this isn't a warranty issue. And I'm not arguing it.
However, I definitely miss how smoothly they worked and will get a set when time is right
I got skills and a little talent!
Probably dumb luck tho
Yeah I already emailed with Curtis about it a little while ago, and this isn't a warranty issue. And I'm not arguing it.
However, I definitely miss how smoothly they worked and will get a set when time is right
I've got a set of the shorter ones on the shelf, that helps alot with breaking them.
We can install those along with a new leaf pack.
If you really beat them the shorter ones are better. But at some point hydros are the only answer.
That’s what I have been telling the wife. Why have 9 when it bottoms out at 7. Am I right!
Itaro
Seriously, FJB
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Stop using the metric systemThat’s what I have been telling the wife. Why have 9 when it bottoms out at 7. Am I right!
or...is better valving the real answer as hydros aren’t meant to be in constant contact?
I use What I got!Stop using the metric system
Yes?
You need enough valving, and up travel, so the hydros only hit on "big" landings. But if you're running whoops or similar that will be every cycle. On washboard, the shocks should take care of it.
Yea that’s a good point. Spring rate accounting for extra weight on longer trips is important. Our back end was fantastic for the week long trip but I swapped to toytec HD springs. The other 4runner didn’t change rear springs and he was riding the bump stops constantly.
I'd say the order is:
1) figure out rig weight where you want performance.
2) figure out desired ride height where you want performance
3) Springs to match 1 and 2.
4) Shocks to match 1, 2 and 3.
5) Bumps.
This implies that your either going to keep the truck a fairly static weight, or accept shitty ride/handling when you deviate. So unless you carry the same weight in tools during the week you carry in camping gear on the weekend; something is going to suffer.
run light springs in the rear for daily. (Wheelers 1.5” lift 12% spring rate increase over stock) Kings on the soft setting.
For trips I swap to the toytec 2” lift HD (200lbs constant) and turn the Kings up to stiffest setting. Rear spring swaps on the 4runner are super easy though