Shock Tech

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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Ahhh I get it. I like fucking with Danny, so I'll let you do your thing ;)


What is the difference in coating?

Pulled from cuckworld. Dual coating. Zinc and ceracoated. @Itaro is getting his kings redone and it sounds like it's just a zinc coat on them.

Screenshot_20220203-192132.png
 

Itaro

Seriously, FJB
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Pulled from cuckworld. Dual coating. Zinc and ceracoated. @Itaro is getting his kings redone and it sounds like it's just a zinc coat on them.

View attachment 70889
I was looking at alternative coatings and read somewhere that cerakote could retain heat instead of dissipating it. There is a cerakote made specifically for dissipating heat but I’m not going to go experimenting when since the original coating held up to the third owner.

They’re not my “forever shocks” anyway
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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I was looking at alternative coatings and read somewhere that cerakote could retain heat instead of dissipating it. There is a cerakote made specifically for dissipating heat but I’m not going to go experimenting when since the original coating held up to the third owner.

They’re not my “forever shocks” anyway

I don't think you drive fast enough for heat to be an issue. :rofl:

Either way that's the biggest difference between king and ADS. Besides lead times.
 

Itaro

Seriously, FJB
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I don't think you drive fast enough for heat to be an issue. :rofl:

Either way that's the biggest difference between king and ADS. Besides lead times.
Nope someone has to patch you back up after y’all wreck from driving too fast :doh:
 
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dirtyjerz
The 6112’s felt as good as my kings until they blew out. For the money I’d recommend 6112 and rear fox 2.0 combo allllll day assuming you don’t drive like full potato every chance you get (that’s me, full baked potato)
had fox 2.0s on the rear of my second gen for a while. Even with the valving being a little off the entire time, it's really really underrated how well a 2.0 shock can perform on a tacoma as long as you don't push it too much on hot days n cook the seals
 

Dezert4Runner

Pineapples belong on pizza
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Oct 23, 2018
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I removed the coils with an amazon piston style spring compressor. After grinding down one of the forked coil plates just a hair to clearance the coilover body, it was super easy to use and I didn't die :banana:

I pressed out the eyelet heims and placed an order for some new ones since they had noticeable play. I need to pick up a torch to heat up the rod ends for replacement with shorter ones I have on hand. Is it only safe to use aluminum jaw inserts with a vise holding the shaft or is there another hack that works just the same without marring it?

Anyone interested in some 16” 2.5 700lb fox coils? I’ll have the extended lower eyelets pictured available soon too.

1645918776134.jpeg

1645918892042.jpeg
 

Airdog

Did Your Mom
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Oct 5, 2018
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I removed the coils with an amazon piston style spring compressor. After grinding down one of the forked coil plates just a hair to clearance the coilover body, it was super easy to use and I didn't die :banana:

I pressed out the eyelet heims and placed an order for some new ones since they had noticeable play. I need to pick up a torch to heat up the rod ends for replacement with shorter ones I have on hand. Is it only safe to use aluminum jaw inserts with a vise holding the shaft or is there another hack that works just the same without marring it?

Anyone interested in some 16” 2.5 700lb fox coils? I’ll have the extended lower eyelets pictured available soon too.

View attachment 73703

View attachment 73704
Put the rod ends in boiling water...that will soften the loctite enough to get them off. Just use some flat aluminum, bend it around the shaft then put it in your vice to hold it.
 

Dezert4Runner

Pineapples belong on pizza
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Oct 23, 2018
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Put the rod ends in boiling water...that will soften the loctite enough to get them off. Just use some flat aluminum, bend it around the shaft then put it in your vice to hold it.
Great advice, I’ll give it a go.
 
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Looks like I'm going to need some help. Just called accutune and was informed that, they would need me to send my shocks to them in order to get them revalved (tuned?). Also, their lead times are ~8 weeks.... So, @4runner DOA , since you're messing with @Itaro's valving to accommodate the weight, could you share some knowledge and help a brother out??

Anyone with knowledge/opinions, feel free to chime in
 

Stairgod

Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
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Looks like I'm going to need some help. Just called accutune and was informed that, they would need me to send my shocks to them in order to get them revalved (tuned?). Also, their lead times are ~8 weeks.... So, @4runner DOA , since you're messing with @Itaro's valving to accommodate the weight, could you share some knowledge and help a brother out??

Anyone with knowledge/opinions, feel free to chime in
@Arcticelf
Also, a call to Filthy Motorsports and a small fee will get you some good valving info.

Fuck Accutune...
 
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4runner DOA

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Yup, I might end up calling them. Will need to order things from somewhere. Uless @4runner DOA will come through with his stuff, and source :evilgrin:
That's right, @Arcticelf knows his stuff!!

The bigger problem is knowing what valving you have to begin with and adjusting around that. We're still kinda figuring it out here and what works for one person won't necessarily work for someone else because we all have different builds, weights, and wheeling preferences.

That being said, call the manufacturer direct (dunno what you're running) and talk with someone specifically about tuning. Tell them what you have on the vehicle, what type of wheeling (fast, slow, crawling) what you want the shock to be capable of handling, and go from there. Buy the shim stacks, seal kits, and oil (I haven't used more than a gallon on 4 2.5 w/ resi shocks) and find someone local to do the rebuild and throw the new stacks in.
 
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