Smiles per mile 4runner build

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,425
Location
OC
Trying not to do gears again but I will in a couple of years if it sucks ass. Want skinny 34s though

Skinny 33s are nice. Really just depends on what you plan on doing. I wouldn't go 34-35 unless you really need the clearance.
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,425
Location
OC
255/85/16s? I would run them but don’t need m/ts or E rated really

I've run both 17" and 16" iterations of skinnies although they were the km2s. For the most part though never had an issue with the usual trails around here. They were quieter compared to the 315s too
 

Octanejunkie

Just another jagoff with a 4x4
Joined
Nov 2, 2018
Messages
604
Trying not to do gears again but I will in a couple of years if it sucks ass. Want skinny 34s though
255/85/16s? I would run them but don’t need m/ts or E rated really
I'm running this size, even E-rated they are a bit wiggly on the freeway, high speed turns, I wouldn't think C or D would be more stable.

If you go 255/85 R17 (skinny 34s) you will only gain 1/2" clearance and will have to beat your pinch weld more than 33s (minimal clearancing) and you will not fit the stock spare location no matter what.

JM2C
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
I'm running this size, even E-rated they are a bit wiggly on the freeway, high speed turns, I wouldn't think C or D would be more stable.

If you go 255/85 R17 (skinny 34s) you will only gain 1/2" clearance and will have to beat your pinch weld more than 33s (minimal clearancing) and you will not fit the stock spare location no matter what.

JM2C
Yeah I think I’d rather go with 285s in either 285/70/17 or 285/75/17 to get the C load for the softer freeway ride (daily driver) and less weight overall. 33s are probably the right choice but 34s sound fun and won’t limit me in the future other then being slower. Time will tell, I still have decent tread on the 32s and a lot of other things to do before tires.
I’m thinking Ill do…
Sliders
Skids
Rear bumper
Outboard rear
Coilovers
Tires

In that order
 
Joined
Nov 8, 2020
Messages
35
Age
24
Location
Bozeman, MT
I have a 3rd gen with most of the things you're looking at doing, let me know if you have any questions. I'm on my second set of 33s (285/70/17 Wildpeaks) and decided to get load range C this time. I couldn't be happier about that choice. They're quieter, softer, and I'm yet to notice any extra weaknesses off road. Of course, I do things way more tame than most of the dudes on this forum, but this is just my two cents. I'd also echo everyone else and say balling out on quality suspension is 1,000% worth it. I had OME shocks, then Bilsteins, and finally ADSs. I should've saved myself the time and money and just bought the ADSs from the start. Sounds like you're off to a great start, it's awesome to know exactly what your end goal is.
 
Joined
May 15, 2019
Messages
113
Location
KY
Everyone who is telling you to just take the hit and buy coilovers first thing is right.

Also, make sure the coilovers you buy are rebuildable. AKA not toytec. Ask me how I know this, and why I've got Kings now.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,961
Age
30
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Trying not to do gears again but I will in a couple of years if it sucks ass. Want skinny 34s though
Skinny 34’s would be fine with 4.30 gears. Not ideal but fine. They are smaller and lighter than 35’s. I drove my truck on 35’s with 4.30 gears for about a year. It did okay but regearing was definitely worthwhile. Just know bigger means you need to make room for more tire clearance.
 

Octanejunkie

Just another jagoff with a 4x4
Joined
Nov 2, 2018
Messages
604
Wider tires = more rolling resistance, too, in addition to more potential traction in loose and mud

There are always tradeoffs in life
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
Skinny 34’s would be fine with 4.30 gears. Not ideal but fine. They are smaller and lighter than 35’s. I drove my truck on 35’s with 4.30 gears for about a year. It did okay but regearing was definitely worthwhile. Just know bigger means you need to make room for more tire clearance.
Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…
 

Chris In Milwaukee

Pinche Gringo
Joined
Dec 16, 2019
Messages
2,769
Age
55
Location
Milwaukee Area, WI USA
Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…
I don't know without going back a ways which generation you have, but a friend near me put 34s (295/70-17) on his 5G without a lot of work. Clearance cut up front, BMC, BDS UCAs, removed the front factory mud flaps (installed flatter aftermarket), and 17x8.5" wheels. No reports of rubbage after that. Takes it everywhere (that you can around here).

1659361531629.png

And 285/70-17 on 17x9 in this photo:

1659361680509.png
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,425
Location
OC
I don't know without going back a ways which generation you have, but a friend near me put 34s (295/70-17) on his 5G without a lot of work. Clearance cut up front, BMC, BDS UCAs, removed the front factory mud flaps (installed flatter aftermarket), and 17x8.5" wheels. No reports of rubbage after that. Takes it everywhere (that you can around here).

View attachment 80336

And 285/70-17 on 17x9 in this photo:

View attachment 80337

He's got a 3rd gen. Bit less room in the wheel wells..
 

Dezert4Runner

Pineapples belong on pizza
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Messages
1,103
Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…
I ran BFG KO2 in a 285/75/17. After switching the fasteners to countersunk sheet metal screws on my Sport flares, they still grabbed the fender on full compression if my wheel was turned a little less than halfway. It probably would have been fine without flares, but I see you have a limited, so you’ll probably want to trim the flares a bit. I was too stubborn (and lazy) to ever bother with it. Skinny 34’s will probably have the same contact. If you run any other brand of tire for that matter, you’ll probably have more contact than I did since BFG’s run small. I’m not sure how the Limited’s flares compare in that same spot. I know they’re slightly different shape especially near the bottom of the flare. Here’s a photo of the rubbage.

1659364430170.jpeg
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
I ran BFG KO2 in a 285/75/17. After switching the fasteners to countersunk sheet metal screws on my Sport flares, they still grabbed the fender on full compression if my wheel was turned a little less than halfway. It probably would have been fine without flares, but I see you have a limited, so you’ll probably want to trim the flares a bit. I was too stubborn (and lazy) to ever bother with it. Skinny 34’s will probably have the same contact. If you run any other brand of tire for that matter, you’ll probably have more contact than I did since BFG’s run small. I’m not sure how the Limited’s flares compare in that same spot. I know they’re slightly different shape especially near the bottom of the flare. Here’s a photo of the rubbage.

View attachment 80338
Thanks for the good info guys. Yes I have a limited. wish I could remove the flares without it looking like shit.that’s something I’ll need to think about before pulling the trigger. I was leaning towards the toyo at3 for a lightweight 285/75/17 C load at 58lbs. Might just go classic 285/70/17 or 75/16 and spend my time and money dialing in a good suspension setup…
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
Shock questions…

2.5 coilovers vs 2.5 resi
-for weekend warrior/daily driver dude who’s not doing anything too crazy or fast and is hours from the desert (plenty of forest roads up in Mendocino county but no go fast shit)

10” 2.0 smooth body’s vs stock location-“ stock size good shocks
-I understand you will lose some up travel with the 10” outboard but make up for it in down travel for Ruts and rocks.

Valving- is there a good starting point for these rigs? I under stand most people just slap them on and call it good but if your spending 2 grand on a shock set up I feel like it should reflect that by being dialed.

Thanks for answering my noob questions. I’m a long term lurker who reads a lot of threads and is eager to learn.
 
Last edited:

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
15,425
Location
OC
Shock questions…

2.5 coilovers vs 2.5 resi
-for weekend warrior/daily driver dude who’s not doing anything too crazy or fast and is hours from the desert (plenty of forest roads up in Mendocino county but no go fast shit)

10” 2.0 smooth body’s vs stock location-“ stock size good shocks
-I understand you will lose some up travel with the 10” outboard but make up for it in down travel for Ruts and rocks.

Valving- is there a good starting point for these rigs? I under stand most people just slap them on and call it good but if your spending 2 grand on a shock set up I feel like it should reflect that by being dialed.

Thanks for answering my noob questions. I’m a long term lurker who reads a lot of threads and is eager to learn.

I ran non resi 2.5 icon front and 2.0 w/ resi in the rear for about 2 years. Granted my rig is heavier, but they were completely fine for the newbie in me that was not pushing the limits.

Once I started getting more comfortable and started pushing the limits, especially in the desert, I felt like they couldn't keep and I switched to 2.5 with resi on all 4 corners. Ran the stock tune they came with until last year when I tuned all 4 corners to deal with all the weight I've added on since I got them.

For slower mountain type stuff I think you'll be fine. You aren't going to be zipping through the trees at 50-70 mph, although I'd wager slow constant work can heat them up just as quick. Buy once cry once. I'm on my 3rd set of shocks.
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
I ran non resi 2.5 icon front and 2.0 w/ resi in the rear for about 2 years. Granted my rig is heavier, but they were completely fine for the newbie in me that was not pushing the limits.

Once I started getting more comfortable and started pushing the limits, especially in the desert, I felt like they couldn't keep and I switched to 2.5 with resi on all 4 corners. Ran the stock tune they came with until last year when I tuned all 4 corners to deal with all the weight I've added on since I got them.

For slower mountain type stuff I think you'll be fine. You aren't going to be zipping through the trees at 50-70 mph, although I'd wager slow constant work can heat them up just as quick. Buy once cry once. I'm on my 3rd set of shocks.
Good info thanks dude. Anyone running bypasses with stock geometry? Probably way overkill but they arnt much more money then 2.5 resi coilovers
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,961
Age
30
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…
You may be able to get away with just some major hammering but tubbing is much more ideal.
Shock questions…

2.5 coilovers vs 2.5 resi
-for weekend warrior/daily driver dude who’s not doing anything too crazy or fast and is hours from the desert (plenty of forest roads up in Mendocino county but no go fast shit)

10” 2.0 smooth body’s vs stock location-“ stock size good shocks
-I understand you will lose some up travel with the 10” outboard but make up for it in down travel for Ruts and rocks.

Valving- is there a good starting point for these rigs? I under stand most people just slap them on and call it good but if your spending 2 grand on a shock set up I feel like it should reflect that by being dialed.

Thanks for answering my noob questions. I’m a long term lurker who reads a lot of threads and is eager to learn.
Resi is always better, but not always necessary. I'd just spend the extra money on them while you are at it. Not that much more to just get the shocks that'll last your needs for a long time.

My personal opinion on the outboard shocks is that if you lose uptravel, they aren't worthwhile. Up travel is key to a better ride. I made my own outboard shocks on my 4runner using 12" short body 7100's. Had to notch the frame but didn't lose any up travel (actually gained some). It was well worth it. In this current 4runner I wasn't wanting to go that route so I just got some King 2.5's with resi.
 

Octanejunkie

Just another jagoff with a 4x4
Joined
Nov 2, 2018
Messages
604
Do you think tubbing will be necessary for skinny 34s with some spcs? Ive read it isn’t but these are 3rd gen mafia/ t4r guys who would say the same for 35s probably…

My skinny tall 33s on factory 5-stars didn't rub at all this past weekend at Lytle Creek. My alignment is factory neutral : cam eliminators at neutral/neutral and SPCs at D. No tubbing , no pinch weld mod.

I am planning to move the wheels forward by taking the rear cams to + (front stay neutral) and the SPCs to E right after I replace my ITREs

Regarding your shock question, I've been running tundra billies on 2ns notch and 620# coils for years without issue as a daily or weekend trail rig. I have not taxed them over endless woops in the desert but I suspect that's where reservoir shocks will have an advantage.

My rig is no longer my daily and is getting a used/rebuilt set of Icon 2.5s - it's becoming more of a camping wheeling weekend driver and I'm about to upgrade to 4.88 gears. One mod at a time.
 
Last edited:

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
You may be able to get away with just some major hammering but tubbing is much more ideal.

Resi is always better, but not always necessary. I'd just spend the extra money on them while you are at it. Not that much more to just get the shocks that'll last your needs for a long time.

My personal opinion on the outboard shocks is that if you lose uptravel, they aren't worthwhile. Up travel is key to a better ride. I made my own outboard shocks on my 4runner using 12" short body 7100's. Had to notch the frame but didn't lose any up travel (actually gained some). It was well worth it. In this current 4runner I wasn't wanting to go that route so I just got some King 2.5's with resi.
Good info. Was leaning towards the short body 10” 7100s unless I get a shock package with rears for a good price but haven’t found anything more affordable then the 7100 (this is a “budget smiles per mile” build after all).

I assume uptravel is set by where I mount the top of the shock for an outboard setup, shouldn’t be too bad with the 10” short body and maybe it won’t need frame notch (that’s above my skill level…)
 
Top Bottom