Smiles per mile 4runner build

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
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31
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Central coast Ca
My skinny tall 33s on factory 5-stars didn't rub at all this past weekend at Lytle Creek. My alignment is factory neutral : cam eliminators at neutral/neutral and SPCs at D. No tubbing , no pinch weld mod.

I am planning to move the wheels forward by taking the rear cams to + (front stay neutral) and the SPCs to E right after I replace my ITREs

Regarding your shock question, I've been running tundra billies on 2ns notch and 620# coils for years without issue as a daily or weekend trail rig. I have not taxed them over endless woops in the desert but I suspect that's where reservoir shocks will have an advantage.

My rig is no longer my daily and is getting a used/rebuilt set of Icon 2.5s - it's becoming more of a camping wheeling weekend driver and I'm about to upgrade to 4.88 gears. One mod at a time.
Mine will be moving towards a full fun wagon in the next couple years as well. Put 20000 on it since April and it’s running strong. I’m excited to build it up a level to do more exciting shit. As it sits handled some alpine loop sections no problem last week next to the JLs on 37s and dirt of varying degrees of rocky every day since April.
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
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31
Location
Central coast Ca
Anyone running these KO2s

34/10.5/17

Size seems pretty good for these rigs, D range and lighter then most 33s even
 

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Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
did some cute shit over the past couple of weeks. Got rid of the fat lip and paint matched the flat lip to the flares.Picked up a doc offroad skid set (cool dudes, cool skids). Wife got me some pods for Christmas that I threw on.

Did a trip out to mammoth/Death Valley and did some fishing/ found some fresh snow. All the trails were closed in Death Valley but snagged a permit and got to sleep in the canyon which was gorgeous.

Planning to move to central Oregon early January for work. Any of you guys live up there ?
 
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4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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did some cute shit over the past couple of weeks. Got rid of the fat lip and paint matched the flat lip to the flares.Picked up a doc offroad skid set (cool dudes, cool skids). Wife got me some pods for Christmas that I through on.

Did a trip out to mammoth/Death Valley and did some fishing and fresh snow. All the trails were closed in Death Valley but snagged a permit and got to sleep in the canyon which was gorgeous.

Planning to move to central Oregon early January for work. Any of you guys live up there ?

From what I've been reading the majority of the dirt roads are currently open in death valley. Think the panamint area is still "closed" but lots of posts about the north end around saline.
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
From what I've been reading the majority of the dirt roads are currently open in death valley. Think the panamint area is still "closed" but lots of posts about the north end around saline.
Yeah I was out there 3 weeks ago and the ranger told me I had to go all the way around to get to those saline spots. Saving them for next time
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
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Location
Central coast Ca
Looking for some extended length rear shocks for my 3rd gen 4R that don’t lose up travel/make you run extended bumps.

Most it seems have a longer collapsed length then stock (example : ads are 15-25”) vs the stock which would force you to run the 5.25” bumps.

I would run outboard 10” but I don’t want to run a crazy offset/backspacing.

Ideally looking for something with linear valving to replace these Billys that are pretty shit on washboard/whoops
 

Octanejunkie

Just another jagoff with a 4x4
Joined
Nov 2, 2018
Messages
604
Looking for some extended length rear shocks for my 3rd gen 4R that don’t lose up travel/make you run extended bumps.

Most it seems have a longer collapsed length then stock (example : ads are 15-25”) vs the stock which would force you to run the 5.25” bumps.

I would run outboard 10” but I don’t want to run a crazy offset/backspacing.

Ideally looking for something with linear valving to replace these Billys that are pretty shit on washboard/whoops
I'm running the Toikco LC shocks with 861 coils (heavy rear) and I extended my bumps stops by 2" - it's good for crawling/ trail running - haven't done any high speed woops but I think it would be bouncy
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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Looking for some extended length rear shocks for my 3rd gen 4R that don’t lose up travel/make you run extended bumps.

Most it seems have a longer collapsed length then stock (example : ads are 15-25”) vs the stock which would force you to run the 5.25” bumps.

I would run outboard 10” but I don’t want to run a crazy offset/backspacing.

Ideally looking for something with linear valving to replace these Billys that are pretty shit on washboard/whoops

Honestly any bolt in icon, king, ads, fox, etc will be worlds above Billies regardless if you have to run an extended bump or not. Make sure you're running the right coil for the weight you carry too because that makes a world of difference.
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
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Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
Honestly any bolt in icon, king, ads, fox, etc will be worlds above Billies regardless if you have to run an extended bump or not. Make sure you're running the right coil for the weight you carry too because that makes a world of difference.
I’m sure they will be. It seems they don’t have oem fit short body extended travel shocks for what I’m looking for. Doesn’t really make sense to run extended bumpstops on 33-34” tires when I have plenty of space in the rear. I guess theres tradeoffs per usual….
 

Dezert4Runner

Pineapples belong on pizza
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Messages
1,103
There’s nothing on the market that I’m aware of that will be more than an inch or so longer than stock that will still fit in the factory location. I ran the Toytec stock replacement 5100’s with factory bumps and then the FJ/ 4th gen with extended bumpstops. They had longer travel and were beefier overall but the extended bumps negated part of the extra travel. They were good with a longer coil spring like the Toytec Superflex I run or a LC coil.

I agree that getting something higher end will perfrom much better for the fast stuff, especially bumping up to a 2.5” diameter. I think in the rocks the added performance is a wash because you’re not really expecting much out of whatever shock is there. The rear shock has a pretty easy job to do with crawling speeds so even a budget shock will do just fine. The problem really is the bumped length if you leave them angled in at the stock upper mounting location. You just can’t get a much longer shock in there without it being a little longer compressed.

You might be able to run an outboard pin/ stem style mount that will still clear the tires (in a 2.0” diameter) without spacers or higher offset wheels. TEQ Customs offers one but it doesn’t really look like they’ll accommodate a longer compressed length shock. Maybe you could mount it a little higher than the frame rail by that extra 1/2”-1” or whatever’s needed. You could definitely make something a little taller than the TEQ mount if you have the tools and some plate steel. It’s a pretty simple design.

 

Octanejunkie

Just another jagoff with a 4x4
Joined
Nov 2, 2018
Messages
604
There’s nothing on the market that I’m aware of that will be more than an inch or so longer than stock that will still fit in the factory location. I ran the Toytec stock replacement 5100’s with factory bumps and then the FJ/ 4th gen with extended bumpstops. They had longer travel and were beefier overall but the extended bumps negated part of the extra travel. They were good with a longer coil spring like the Toytec Superflex I run or a LC coil.

I agree that getting something higher end will perfrom much better for the fast stuff, especially bumping up to a 2.5” diameter. I think in the rocks the added performance is a wash because you’re not really expecting much out of whatever shock is there. The rear shock has a pretty easy job to do with crawling speeds so even a budget shock will do just fine. The problem really is the bumped length if you leave them angled in at the stock upper mounting location. You just can’t get a much longer shock in there without it being a little longer compressed.

You might be able to run an outboard pin/ stem style mount that will still clear the tires (in a 2.0” diameter) without spacers or higher offset wheels. TEQ Customs offers one but it doesn’t really look like they’ll accommodate a longer compressed length shock. Maybe you could mount it a little higher than the frame rail by that extra 1/2”-1” or whatever’s needed. You could definitely make something a little taller than the TEQ mount if you have the tools and some plate steel. It’s a pretty simple design.


Bump stops
Durobump primaries and secondaries are the BOMB up front; they saved my front end from self-disintegrating.

OSR
I'm considering outboarding extended travel rear shocks, like Radflo, for more articulation. I talked to @eimkeith about rear shock mounts like those Snowbound Customs at one point, the will not be tall enough to do more than stock mounts, so no reason advantage. If going OSR look at hoop-style outboard mounts - at least that's my plan.
 

Ogreboi666

Breh
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
40
Age
31
Location
Central coast Ca
Bump stops
Durobump primaries and secondaries are the BOMB up front; they saved my front end from self-disintegrating.

OSR
I'm considering outboarding extended travel rear shocks, like Radflo, for more articulation. I talked to @eimkeith about rear shock mounts like those Snowbound Customs at one point, the will not be tall enough to do more than stock mounts, so no reason advantage. If going OSR look at hoop-style outboard mounts - at least that's my plan.
Definitely planning on getting some duros all around when I upgrade to real coilovers up front ( hopefully by fall). Need to get some SPCs UCAs as well.

I would totally run the outerhoop like the FGP kit and I think it would get me what I need as far as travel #s and uptravel go but I’m having trouble finding 3.5 backspacing wheels that don’t weigh a ton that also don’t have a -500 offset. I’m trying to keep it around -10 so I don’t need to chop my fenders and can keep my limited flares.

Also planning on moving up to 17s so I can run C load AT tires. Looking at the toyo at3s for their light weight and good winter performance.
 
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Bozeman, MT
Definitely planning on getting some duros all around when I upgrade to real coilovers up front ( hopefully by fall). Need to get some SPCs UCAs as well.

I would totally run the outerhoop like the FGP kit and I think it would get me what I need as far as travel #s and uptravel go but I’m having trouble finding 3.5 backspacing wheels that don’t weigh a ton that also don’t have a -500 offset. I’m trying to keep it around -10 so I don’t need to chop my fenders and can keep my limited flares.

Also planning on moving up to 17s so I can run C load AT tires. Looking at the toyo at3s for their light weight and good winter performance.
I switched from 16s to 17s last year for partly the same reason. Couldn't be happier with my C load Wildpeaks. My brother runs the Toyos on his Taco and they seem at least equally great.
 
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