4” stroke? I had to destroke mine down to 3” and still want to bring them down to 2”. With bypasses, you shouldn’t need a tall bump zone. How much up travel do you have at ride height?
SoCal BS Thread
- Thread starter AssBurns
- Start date
Blender
Swiftie
have you tried following the directions?
Blender
Swiftie
@AssBurns
I'm pretty sure this stuff is why my truck was riding like shit on the highway. lol
Bent passenger side inner tie rod.
Busted C-clip on passenger side CV. Also the outer/outer clamp was broken.
Busted C-clip driver side CV. Both outer/outer and inner/inner clamps busted.
Hard to see but bent the forward portion of the drivers side LCA mount.
Bent lower d-bushing bolt for the rack.
Blew apart the d-bushing itself and probably bent the d-bushing mount clamp.
That's it for the damage. I'll try and find some c-clips that don't fucking break and re-grease and re-clamp the CV's. I'll bend the bolt back straight. I have new rack bushing so those will go on. I'll beat the LCA mount back to straight. Then new inner and outer tie rods and new LCA bushings.
Remember talking about using a drill bit to remove LCA bushings? Well, unless you cut out the one piece sleeve on ours you can't. I ended up trying the bottle jack method after letting them sit in Liquid Wrench for a bit. Less then 10 minutes and a little heat later and the passenger sides are both out.
are those the rcv axles with the band clamp and c clip issues?
You mean the ones that say:
"MAKE SURE YOU DON"T HIT OR PINCH THE FRAGILE COPPER LINE ON INSTALL DUMBASS"
Yep. I've replaced a lot of CV's from OEM and Napa and have never had a C-clip fail. The only positive of this is that the CV's came out really easy. lol
No hammer needed just a firm tug.
No hammer needed just a firm tug.
I've never used a hammer to remove them. The easiest way is to take a small 10" pry bar with an angled tip and insert that between the diff housing and the inner cage. One push and it's out. But, yeah, in this case I didn't even need that. lol
Drink beer AFTER the install....
It's a really fucking tight fit and you really need 2 people to put the 3rd in to avoid pushing it into the gears. There's a lip on the 8" that you have to push the line under while pushing the 3rd into place with no room for error. The 8.4" rear has rails that the line gets tied to so you don't have to worry about it
That's funny. I have never had help taking my 8" out or putting it back in. Yet, my copper line still looks new. lol
Is there a lip on the housing you have to clear? Not all 8" rears are made equally. Haha.
Uhmm, technically your right. There is indeed a difference between a factory e-locked 8" rear axle and a regular factory 8" axle. The elocked housing has a channel on the driver side to clear the actuator and has 2 additional studs. That wouldn't help you anyway since the ARB airline is routed on top. Other then that all 8" housing are the same.
The "lip" your talking about is where the studs thread. Without it there's no way to attach the diff to the housing. lol
What I did to make my life easier was get rid of the factory studs. These where replaced with pan head allen bolts. M8 x 1.25 is the size and pitch. Those get threaded in from the backside. This eliminates being able to accidentally back out the factory stud. When I did that I made sure to leave the top bolts longer then all the others.
When I put my diff in the top studs act as a guide. This allows me to also push up the flange side of the diff. That angle allows me to easily clear the ARB copper line. Like my grandpa used to say. Work smarter, not harder. lol
Uhmm, technically your right. There is indeed a difference between a factory e-locked 8" rear axle and a regular factory 8" axle. The elocked housing has a channel on the driver side to clear the actuator and has 2 additional studs. That wouldn't help you anyway since the ARB airline is routed on top. Other then that all 8" housing are the same.
The "lip" your talking about is where the studs thread. Without it there's no way to attach the diff to the housing. lol
What I did to make my life easier was get rid of the factory studs. These where replaced with pan head allen bolts. M8 x 1.25 is the size and pitch. Those get threaded in from the backside. This eliminates being able to accidentally back out the factory stud. When I did that I made sure to leave the top bolts longer then all the others.
When I put my diff in the top studs act as a guide. This allows me to also push up the flange side of the diff. That angle allows me to easily clear the ARB copper line. Like my grandpa used to say. Work smarter, not harder. lol
And that's exactly the solution I needed because that's the half the problem. Trying to fit the 3rd while simultaneously pushing the copper line under the lip when it gets close the 3rd tends to bind on the studs because it's not going flush. Which is where 2 sets of hands comes in for me. I'll have to get some new studs and give that a try.
Well, that work paid off big time. I just did a quick eyeball alignment and took it for a spin. Most of the front end vibrations are gone and the steering is tight. When I move a tire from 3 to 9 the other tire moves with it. Before I had 1/2" of play before the other tire would move. lol
I'll get it aligned this week. They might have to do the rear as well since I just used math to set both the lower and upper control links. The really good tech I used left town and now there's some other tech. I'll see how good he is.
I'll get it aligned this week. They might have to do the rear as well since I just used math to set both the lower and upper control links. The really good tech I used left town and now there's some other tech. I'll see how good he is.
Dezert4Runner
Pineapples belong on pizza
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2018
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I just did LBJ and tie rods as well yesterday. Mine weren’t all bent up like yours but the LBJ’s were pissing grease and ITRE’s we’re toast so it was due.
I just had an alignment done today and since it was lifted it cost $110. Seemed a little high, but I haven’t paid for one for a long time. What does your aligmnent shop charge? In years past I had a lifetime alaigment from Firestone but those clowns never seems to get my numbers right or left my LCA alignment cam bolts loose
I just did LBJ and tie rods as well yesterday. Mine weren’t all bent up like yours but the LBJ’s were pissing grease and ITRE’s we’re toast so it was due.
I just had an alignment done today and since it was lifted it cost $110. Seemed a little high, but I haven’t paid for one for a long time. What does your aligmnent shop charge? In years past I had a lifetime alaigment from Firestone but those clowns never seems to get my numbers right or left my LCA alignment cam bolts loose
I only use Firestone when I've done major suspension work, otherwise I do it in the driveway. If they got your alignment where you want it then mark all your cams and tie rod nut with a paint pen. If you knock it again you'll at least be able to get it close.
Dezert4Runner
Pineapples belong on pizza
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2018
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Yep, I had the lifetime Firestone with my old ‘96 2wd 4Runner so the current ride doesn’t count and I don’t want to give them my money this time around. The place I went to was the only one locally that was open Sundays and had nothing but 5 star Yelp reviews so it worked out. I planned on marking everything with a paint pen for that exact reason so I can save some money next time I have a little too much fun offroad.
My front end was beyond toast. I wasn't looking forward to the LCA bushings but they where so easy I don't understand how people struggle with them.
My local shop is $135. We'll see if they get paid or not once the new tech gets finished. I know EXACTLY what I want my numbers to be. If he gets me there they get paid. If not I travel to Reno. lol
Dezert4Runner
Pineapples belong on pizza
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2018
- Messages
- 1,176
Ok yeah their normal rate was $130 for lifted vehicles and I paid $110 after a online coupon so I got a pretty good deal then I guess.
So I had about 2" of water in the trunk of the Jetta and my rear seat floor mats were saturated. Still getting a random code that's either pointing at air/water in my fuel or fuel pump is going out. Betting old diesel since it sat for over 6 months and water in the tank.
Eating healthy dawg! My stomache hurts cause it has no bacon or red meat.
whippersnapper02
Wheeling without a ladder should be illegal!
Found part of my leak. There's plastic retainers that go through the trunk wall. The screws for the taillights go into those retainers but the back is open. There's supposed to be a seal on the exterior side but it has since deteriorated. I'm going to get some rubber sheet and punch out new seals then use black silicone on both sides. Fun stuff!
Looks pretty good though.
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