Solar shit...mobile, home, etc

Stairgod

Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
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Any solar nerds on here? Recently did a 400 watt install on my work trailer and now apparently going down a rabbit hole
 
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I know a little.... I've been running a solar system , inverters, and fridge in 3rd gen 4runner for a while, whats on ur mind? FYI I learned a lot reading up on the Expedition Portal forum.
 

Stairgod

Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
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I know a little.... I've been running a solar system , inverters, and fridge in 3rd gen 4runner for a while, whats on ur mind? FYI I learned a lot reading up on the Expedition Portal forum.
What set up you have? Single or dual panels, rigid or flexible, PWM or MPPT?

I am looking at some flexible panels for my camper as well as the truck.
I have a portable set up for the camper already but at 160 watts total it's not quite enough for my needs. An additional 200 watts on the roof should do nicely
 
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What set up you have? Single or dual panels, rigid or flexible, PWM or MPPT?

I am looking at some flexible panels for my camper as well as the truck.
I have a portable set up for the camper already but at 160 watts total it's not quite enough for my needs. An additional 200 watts on the roof should do nicely
Expedition Portal was my go to as well. Nonetheless, I'm running a second battery with solar (100W) on my Mall Crawler to power up 75qt fridge. From what I gather, not quite what you're looking for.

100W Renogy Monocrystalline Panel paired with CTek D250se Solar Charge Controller, all that charges a Group31 AGM battery.

That setup is enough for my needs. I could add at least one other panel to it, but as far as battery, D250se is pretty much maxed out on a 100Ah AGM
 

Stairgod

Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
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Expedition Portal was my go to as well. Nonetheless, I'm running a second battery with solar (100W) on my Mall Crawler to power up 75qt fridge. From what I gather, not quite what you're looking for.

100W Renogy Monocrystalline Panel paired with CTek D250se Solar Charge Controller, all that charges a Group31 AGM battery.

That setup is enough for my needs. I could add at least one other panel to it, but as far as battery, D250se is pretty much maxed out on a 100Ah AGM
Interesting that you went with a battery charger/solar charge controller combo unit.
For the truck I was thinking a pwm controller due to the low output of the panels, but for the camper was going with a MPPT.

What is the thinking of going with the Ctek unit?(I have one of their battery chargers and love it)
 
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Interesting that you went with a battery charger/solar charge controller combo unit.
For the truck I was thinking a pwm controller due to the low output of the panels, but for the camper was going with a MPPT.

What is the thinking of going with the Ctek unit?(I have one of their battery chargers and love it)
1
I did most of my research and got my stuff before raising voltage for AGM battery in a 3rd gen was a thing. So, at that time my choices were RedArk or Ctek, and Ctek was available at better price. Also with addition of smarpass 120s (and 1 or 2 more solar panels) it would be a total beast.
Basically, seemed like a good idea at the time.


As for a camper. We have a pre-installed "Go Power" system with a single 100w flexible panel (new 2021 models come with a single 170w panel) , PWM controller and two AGM batteries (can't remember the size) .
I'm planning on adding at least one more panel, maybe even re-evaluate the whole system at some point. At this time for the way we camp, this system is ok enough, but will need a few upgrades in case we would decide to camp off-grid for a few days/nights.
 
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What is the thinking of going with the Ctek unit?(I have one of their battery chargers and love it)
2
D250se will work with larger capacity lithium batteries, which is a big +. Also, if 2nd battery is fully charged, it also charges/maintains main battery. I don't think comparable RedArk can do that.
 
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What set up you have? Single or dual panels, rigid or flexible, PWM or MPPT?

I am looking at some flexible panels for my camper as well as the truck.
I have a portable set up for the camper already but at 160 watts total it's not quite enough for my needs. An additional 200 watts on the roof should do nicely

2 100 watt suitcase Renogy panels (have a long cord to move into the best sun)
30amp MPPT Victron solar controller
Victron BMV-712 Smart (Blue tooth)
Victron App to control everything from the phone
1200w (peak 2400w) and 350w (peak 700) Victron invertors
Blue Sea Automatic Charging Relay (ACRs)
Blue Sea fuse block and fuse ANL blocks
2 water filled lead acid battery's for 185ea amp hrs (I used lead acid so i could beat them up and replace cheap)

I run a house coffee maker, blender, 50qt ARB fridge, have my car stereo (4channel amp, Sub amp and sub) set to run with the key off for music, movies, game system.

In good sun I can listen to music and play my gaming laptop all day and stay at 100% charge
 
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Stairgod

Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
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D250se will work with larger capacity lithium batteries, which is a big +. Also, if 2nd battery is fully charged, it also charges/maintains main battery. I don't think comparable RedArk can do that.
Wasn't thinking about a house/chassis battery set up. Having a singular charge controller/battery isolator as in all in one unit is interesting.
I was only thinking about a house battery with an Mppt for solar and my Blue Sea isolator keeping things separate. Need to do more research now. Thanks for the input
 

Itaro

Seriously, FJB
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Neat idea. Looks funky but the idea is cool. Would be cooler to line the roof itself with those but doesn’t work well for the overlanders who always have an RTT blocking all the sun.
I would be concerned about the longevity of the panel being right next to a huge source of heat
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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I would be concerned about the longevity of the panel being right next to a huge source of heat
Isn’t the underside of the hood usually insulated? How hot do the panels get on their own when being in 110° direct sun?
 

kasnerd

Danny's Red Headed Step Child
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I would be concerned about the longevity of the panel being right next to a huge source of heat

all panels are designed to take the heat. having a warm engine isn't gonna heat it up as much as being in the direct sun. I bet you that panel gets to 150+ on a normal day in the sun. no way the engine bay heats up the hood more. Now heating/cooling cycles might be an issue over the long haul but it's probably longer than most will use this for. I think its a great alternative to a panel on a roof. Set and forget.
 
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4runner DOA

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Isn’t the underside of the hood usually insulated? How hot do the panels get on their own when being in 110° direct sun?

Tacomas are not, and the insulation on the 4runner hood ripped out of the clips. I tried a Velcro fix but that didn't last long.
 

kasnerd

Danny's Red Headed Step Child
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its not insulation on the bottom of the hoods. its a fire mat that will drop onto the engine to help smother a fire. the plastic clips that hold it to the hood are designed to melt.
 

Stairgod

Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
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its not insulation on the bottom of the hoods. its a fire mat that will drop onto the engine to help smother a fire. the plastic clips that hold it to the hood are designed to melt.
Least effective fire mat I have ever seen. Responded to more than a few car fires during my time as a volunteer firefighter.
 

kasnerd

Danny's Red Headed Step Child
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Least effective fire mat I have ever seen. Responded to more than a few car fires during my time as a volunteer firefighter.

oh it's bare minimum for safety. I ripped mine out immediately and replaced with actual sound deadening/insulation until the accident then it's stayed naked since. Weight wasn't worth it and I wrapped it in matte black for glare which was a HUGE improvement.
 
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