SRQ Fab 4625 Build Thread (KOH2019)

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
You are planning to push the rear axle back? Won't that push your tire further into the body? How much are you realistically able to cut the body? Isn't it something like 2" from stock?
 
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
288
Age
27
You are planning to push the rear axle back? Won't that push your tire further into the body? How much are you realistically able to cut the body? Isn't it something like 2" from stock?
Look on insta messages BB. Can’t cut the body at all. Upper axle mounts limit uptravel anyways. We’ll push the rear axle around an inch. But we’ll see once I get a tire on it. Still waiting on axle shafts
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
Look on insta messages BB. Can’t cut the body at all. Upper axle mounts limit uptravel anyways. We’ll push the rear axle around an inch. But we’ll see once I get a tire on it. Still waiting on axle shafts
Maybe I’m reading this wrong but I thought you can cut the fenders.
4D0726B9-33E9-47EC-A42F-EFEAD2EA5508.jpeg
Since we can’t cut the factory crossmembers, we’ll most likely be bending the upper arms to clear this mother trucker
View attachment 2327
Dude! Cut those upper link mounts off and move them down a few inches to make room for up travel! And I’m sure you can ditch those lower link mounts that are above the axle to get the geometry where you need it.
Looks like your roll center will be super high, which will help in the rocks and shock mounting, but the rear end is gonna hate you in the higher speed stuff. At least you get to mount hydro bumps now.
 
Joined
Oct 4, 2018
Messages
106
Location
SW UT
Maybe I’m reading this wrong but I thought you can cut the fenders.
View attachment 2328

Dude! Cut those upper link mounts off and move them down a few inches to make room for up travel! And I’m sure you can ditch those lower link mounts that are above the axle to get the geometry where you need it.
Looks like your roll center will be super high, which will help in the rocks and shock mounting, but the rear end is gonna hate you in the higher speed stuff. At least you get to mount hydro bumps now.

It says "inner fenders must be complete and unmodified", and due to the single fender design of the rear (aka no removable outer fender) the rear can't get trimmed at all as I read it.

As for link geometry, don't you as a rule of thumb want your links to be flat or even angled up at ride height? I thought having the links flatter and angled down reduced your roll axis angle, which in general was desirable?
 
Last edited:

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
7,959
Age
31
Location
Yucaipa, CA
It says "inner fenders must be complete and unmodified", and due to the single fender design of the rear (aka no removable outer fender) the rear can't get trimmed at all as I read it.

As for link geometry, don't you as a rule of thumb want your links to be flat or even angled up at ride height? I thought having the links flatter and angled down reduced your roll axis angle, which in general was desirable?
I’d probably call an inspector or someone to ask if that is legal. It’s not like you are tubbing the inner fender. Just trimming the outer seam and rewelding it shut.

Yes you want the links to be flat as possible, but only if all the other factors look good as well. You can lower your RAA by triangulating your lowers. A few degrees won’t hurt anything.
You also want to make sure you have enough vertical separation at the axle, but you don’t always want your roll center to be mega high by raising the uppers super high. Plus it it can lead to clearance issues. A high roll center is nice in the rocks and sidehilling, but in the desert, a high roll center will cause the rear end to be pushed side to side a lot more in the high speed stuff.
 
Top Bottom