Timmy the Toolman is in the House!

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I've never dyno tested one of my rigs so I don't know of a shop I could refer you to. And because I've never done a dyno test, I have no clue what they cost.
All good. Totally like and appreciate your vids too brotha!!! :thumbsup:

I'll just continue my online searches, but figured if you knew of any place since you do your vids/mods and such.

Anyways, I'm just curious on what my truck is putting "on the ground" and that's it. I know it can't be that much just to "test". Now test and THEN "TUNE", I get it... it's gonna cost quite a bit.

Besides, with a 1998 3RZ-FE stock ECU, I HIGHLY DOUBT there isn't very much "tuning" that can be done.

Thanks again for the reply!!!
 

HavingaGoodTime4x4

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All good. Totally like and appreciate your vids too brotha!!! :thumbsup:

I'll just continue my online searches, but figured if you knew of any place since you do your vids/mods and such.

Anyways, I'm just curious on what my truck is putting "on the ground" and that's it. I know it can't be that much just to "test". Now test and THEN "TUNE", I get it... it's gonna cost quite a bit.

Besides, with a 1998 3RZ-FE stock ECU, I HIGHLY DOUBT there isn't very much "tuning" that can be done.

Thanks again for the reply!!!
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A dyno is probably right around $100-200. Whatever their shop rate is. You probably need to pay for an hour to get 3 pulls and a print out.
Thanks Mike.

It will be a while before even doing this, but I would like to eventually do this just so that I know what is at the wheels and those prices are really not all that bad and look reasonable for pricing.

If I ever start upgrading certain components that involve the engine, at least I have a baseline now.

Right now though, my engine just got recently rebuilt, so it will definitely be a while before doing anything added on to the engine. I'm just very happy it is back up and running now. :thumbsup:
 
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@Timmah! Timmy, I have to replace both driver/passenger CV Axles (I also know them as "half-shafts").

Anyways, I have manual locking hubs, so is it simply as removing the steering knuckle out of the way or do I have to disassemble the whole manual locking hubs as well just to replace the CV Axle?

I hope I'm making sense? I know on the automatic disconnect axles you remove the "center nut" and just basically lightly tap out the CV Axle. Is it the same similar process for a manual locking hub, but without any center nut?
 

snowtank

Where the fuck did my beer go!?
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@Timmah! Timmy, I have to replace both driver/passenger CV Axles (I also know them as "half-shafts").

Anyways, I have manual locking hubs, so is it simply as removing the steering knuckle out of the way or do I have to disassemble the whole manual locking hubs as well just to replace the CV Axle?

I hope I'm making sense? I know on the automatic disconnect axles you remove the "center nut" and just basically lightly tap out the CV Axle. Is it the same similar process for a manual locking hub, but without any center nut?
Yeah you are correct. For the most part. I removed the manual locking hub and there is a c clip in there if I remember correctly. Then the process is the same. If I'm understanding your question correctly.
 
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Yeah you are correct. For the most part. I removed the manual locking hub and there is a c clip in there if I remember correctly. Then the process is the same. If I'm understanding your question correctly.
Yeah, I just need to remove the CV Axle and replace with a new CV Axle.

If that is all it is is a c-clip, then cool. Should be eazy peazy? :playball:

Thanks brother. :thumbsup::beerscheers:
 

snowtank

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Yeah, I just need to remove the CV Axle and replace with a new CV Axle.

If that is all it is is a c-clip, then cool. Should be eazy peazy? :playball:

Thanks brother. :thumbsup::beerscheers:
Yeah I just did my front end rebuild a few months ago. I took off the manual locking hub part on the end and I think there was just a c clip in there holding it through the hub. Everything else was the same as the auto locking version. Get the cv axle for the 1st Gen manual locking hub from Napa. And you should be good to go dude.
 

snowtank

Where the fuck did my beer go!?
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These are the warn manual hubs I have. So pulled the tire then removed all the nuts so could pull the manual hub and on the end of the shaft should be the retention c clip to hold it in place. (Once again I'm going off memory) but it's a easy straight forward job like the others. What vehicle you doing it to?16708699110792967602834600321940.jpg
 
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These are the warn manual hubs I have. So pulled the tire then removed all the nuts so could pull the manual hub and on the end of the shaft should be the retention c clip to hold it in place. (Once again I'm going off memory) but it's a easy straight forward job like the others. What vehicle you doing it to?View attachment 81583
My 1998 Tacoma 4wd with manual Aisin locking hubs.

Thank you brother!!! :thumbsup::beerscheers:
 

4runner DOA

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Yeah, I just need to remove the CV Axle and replace with a new CV Axle.

If that is all it is is a c-clip, then cool. Should be eazy peazy? :playball:

Thanks brother. :thumbsup::beerscheers:

If you find you're struggling with getting the cv out, you can rent a hammer pull thing from AutoZone. I forget exactly what it's called but I had to rent one once. Popped that fucker out like nothing.
 
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If you find you're struggling with getting the cv out, you can rent a hammer pull thing from AutoZone. I forget exactly what it's called but I had to rent one once. Popped that fucker out like nothing.
I'm hoping to replace the axles soon.

Going to save my originals and rebuild those. I've rebuilt CV axles before and not all that hard to do, but definitely a messy job.

The axles I rebuilt were for an '89 2.2L non-turbo Dodge Shadow. Gutless, but super reliable car (NOTE: the turbo version was AWESOME though). The tranny finally went out on it. Still wish I had it though. Such an easy engine to work on.

Thank you Danny and @snowtank
 
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@Timmah! Timmy, I have to replace both driver/passenger CV Axles (I also know them as "half-shafts").

Anyways, I have manual locking hubs, so is it simply as removing the steering knuckle out of the way or do I have to disassemble the whole manual locking hubs as well just to replace the CV Axle?

I hope I'm making sense? I know on the automatic disconnect axles you remove the "center nut" and just basically lightly tap out the CV Axle. Is it the same similar process for a manual locking hub, but without any center nut?
Yes, you have to remove the manual hubs to get the CV axles out. If you skim through this video towards the end, you'll see the process to be able to free the CV axle from the hub.

 

Octanejunkie

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The biggest pita is getting the conical washers to release. A brass drift and 3# sledge will do it, your a nit on the stud so you don't deform the end/threads of the stud

When you go to reassemble
Torque on the hub studs is 23# foot
Torque on the captive axle bolt and washer is 23# foot
Torque on the lock hub dial is 11# foot
 
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